Por15, Where all have you used it?

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I'm really thinking about using it on my whole interior floorboard because i don't have carpet and i'm holding out for clean OEM carpet so it may be a while before i get any. I'm just not sure if it's gonna stink me out or not.
I also ordered a gallon from their website. I plan on applying it to whole underside, fenderwells, behind fenders, gas tank, whole inside of car. Hell I would apply it to the whole car and engine bay if I knew it could be done and painted over, since im taking whole car to bare metal anyway..lol Anyone painted over por15? pics?

Also to the ones that spray it on, will a harbor freight gun do the trick?
I bought the Six Pack and used it on the entire underside last year...not to happy with it. Did everything and bought everything(marine clean and metal ready) to apply it right, doesn't seem to hold up that well. Chips way easily than i thought and have some slight surface rust bleed through.
this may be a dumb question, but is there anyway to get the car on its side so i can sand blast the bottom and spray the por 15 on eaiser. I just dont want to lay on my back and do it, and i dont have access to a lift. keep in mind its a roller completly stripped.
another question. I plan on filling in all the holes in my engine bay, of course after grinding down all the welds i will need to add bondo to smooth everything out. i wont be able to apply por15 to my engine bay now will i?
POR15 is cool stuff, but it's also a PIA to use.

Yes you can spray it with a standard primer gun (never done it myself), but you will need (at a minimum) a real respirator or even better, a supplied-air respirator. No point having a car that lasts forever if you keel over. Note: you can only thin it with POR15 solvent.

All the instructions you could ever want are on the POR15 website: POR-15 Inc.. Read them several times before buying anything.

Yes, I know it's cheaper per ounce that way, but you'll end up throwing most of it away after:
1. It becomes contaminated. (Regardless of size, after it's opened, and if you're ultra careful, you might get a can to last a month before it gels)
2. You can't get the lid off (no kidding - once you get the stuff in the seam between the lid and the can, you will tear the metal paint-can before breaking the POR15 bond)

I buy the tiny 6 packs, stir the POR15 with a clean wood popsicle stick, use a turkey baster to remove a small amount to a disposable plastic container, clean lid and can lip with POR15 solvent, then close can.

If you're repainting an entire vehicle, then select a brand of paint and follow their instructions, using the manufacturers primer - thinners - prep recommendations. Do not mix manufacturers. In other words, don't use POR15 under your PPG paint job. Kevin Tetz has a great set of videos that are well worth the price: Kevin Tetz's Paintucation - Paint Your Own Car!.
+1 on don't buy an entire gallon.

I bought a quart and it did my entire rear axle and *most* of the underside of the car and the front fender areas.

The lid is sometimes impossible to get off. If you have a few little areas to do, get the pints, or better off spring for the $20 sample pack. You should easily be able to do a rear end with that pack.

I need to pick up some more so i can do my floorboards withit before i lay dynamat on the entire interior of the car.
I have used it a lot. It comes in gloss black, satin black, grey, silver and they even have gas tank sealer that fills pin holes.

I bought a quarter and sprayed the entire underside of my fox, and the interior floor pan and trunk pan. Also brushed it in spots like the interior wheel wells of the quarter panels and in the sides of the trunk area at the lower quarters. That car will NEVER rust now.

I just recently bought a quart for my current build. I'm just brushing it in spots I welded and some minor minor rust bubbles in crevices underneath.

Don't get it on your hands, and place a peice of plastic (i use a shopping bag) between the can and the lid.
I tried POR15 "Hardnose" paint a while back on my mower deck. It took eternity to cure - like a week! The benefit of the long cure time is that it is self-leveling, meaning that the brush strokes vanish leaving a super smooth surface. Unfortunately this also leaves it more vulnerable to dust and debris contamination prior to curing.