POS Car!!!!!!!

Guero

Active Member
Oct 11, 2005
2,148
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**** my car wont ****ing idle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Every time i hit the clutch stop and a light it ****ing dies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WTF is wrong with it??????????? Is it the tuning???? It wasn't this bad before!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!****!!!!!:mad: :mad: :bang: :bang: And when it does idle, its really low like 500 rpms. The idler screw is screwed in at least 4 full turns, if not more.
 
ok. i put in the code reader. Only came up with 212. Plus i forgot i left the reader in there and i started it up, and it idled perfect. no surging no nothing. It was high but i put it down to like 900 rpms. then i saw it was connected and disconected and it was back to the same ****. does that mean anything?
 
That code has always popped up since i bought the car. I erase it and it just comes up again. I just disconect the battery for a while. thats how you erase them right?
 
take it to advance--let them use their machine and they'll give you a print-out telling you exactly what it is. or there's a site that'll tell you what the code the #'s for. whatever you do, don't just keep ignoring it.
 
IDM = Ignition Diagnostics Monitor. In a nutshell the code often comes about when the expected timing advance value doesnt agree with what's actually occuring.

An example would be a SPOUT chip that's barely installed and opening and closing the circuit.
 
thats right thats why i just keep erasing that code. BTW, im pretty sure its the tuning. I kepted screwing more the adjuster screw, until it finally stayed at 1800 rpms. And the dam car car kept going down to 800 this time. So im thinking its the computer fighting with all the mods. lol
 
The computer really cant do a whole lot to lower the absolute idle. It uses the IAC to raise it, and it can lower the IAC duty cycle to 0% to lower it, but that's about all.

I'd clear the code and drive it for a day (if you can do so safely - driving in Phx is like something from Mad Max) and check the codes again. If that code regenerated that quickly, I'd run through the ignition system and see what the issue is (bad wiring or the TFI are likely).

When you check your timing, you remove the SPOUT connector. Does the car usually stall when you do this? If so, that might be a clue that the SPOUT circuit has an issue and it's dropping in and out (it'd be like putting the SPOUT connector in and out of the connector while you drive).

Good luck my Phoenix living, leather jacket wearing friend. :D
 
HISSIN50 said:
When you check your timing, you remove the SPOUT connector. Does the car usually stall when you do this? If so, that might be a clue that the SPOUT circuit has an issue and it's dropping in and out (it'd be like putting the SPOUT connector in and out of the connector while you drive).

Last time i messed with the timimng it did stall when i removed it. And whats the TFI?

and why would my idle be so low? How many turns on the idler screw are normal for a stang?
 
TFI = Thick Film Ignition = the ignition module that's mounted to the passenger side wheel well on the front.

I have no clue about the idle stop screw - maybe hte other guys can tell you. It should take very very little turns to get the idle up with that screw. Something else is up.

Good luck bud.