Let's keep it all here though. Who wants to look through 3 different threads for the resolution?
I spruced up the thread title a bit too. If you'd like a different title but lack the perms to change it, hit me up any of the mods.
Possible Parasitic Draw... Follow My Journey
- Thread starter daveinfl33777
- Start date
Let's keep it all here though. Who wants to look through 3 different threads for the resolution?
I spruced up the thread title a bit too. If you'd like a different title but lack the perms to change it, hit me up any of the mods.
Haha thanks I didn't know that could be done...Let's keep it all here though. Who wants to look through 3 different threads for the resolution?
I spruced up the thread title a bit too. If you'd like a different title but lack the perms to change it, hit me up any of the mods.
Man this is crazy and it might end up just being a dud....but I'm flip flopping again for the 3rd or 4th time now....I think maybe I just didn't simply drive the car enough after getting this battery...maybe this battery had 12v or something from sitting on shelf at Walmart and needed a good amount of driving to really get it fully charged up....these little 20 minute stop and go drives just weren't enough once every 4 or 5 days....after driving it much more often (still not every day) I think it is now finally actually fully charged....I admittedly did not know how much you really need to drive a car to charge a battery fully if it is in fact not at 12.6v....I wish I did test the voltage of the battery when I first put it in the car but hindsight is 20/20.....as of now it ended up being a simple issue but it is in my memory bank....unless of course I turn out to be wrong and 70ma is too much draw and I should aim for something closer to 10 to 20ma...
Which does lead me to one last question here....what actually is a really good number to shoot for with this 99-04 mustangs stock everything...it has mach radio I'm STRONGLY assuming 460 not 1000 but it says nothing....if anybody would be kind enough to take a parasitic draw reading that would be awesome....because if yall are down at like 20ma draw or even 35ma draw it would give me the willpower to actually attempt to find the draw(s) and knock it down from 70ma to a much lower number. I don't want to delve into this if you guys are all at like 50ma though....I don't think it would be worth my effor to lose 20ma draw
I thought i had fixed something and lowered the draw by removing and replacing fuses but to confirm i didn't I checked draw and it is the exact same 70ma....so I think the timing was just a coincidence and I actually just finally got that battery fully charged by driving it much more
70ma is nothing.
You are overthinking this whole thing and inventing problems.
Put a good (not walmart ect) battery in it.
If the vehicle is rarely driven, or only driven short distances, then put a battery tender on it.
You are overthinking this whole thing and inventing problems.
Put a good (not walmart ect) battery in it.
If the vehicle is rarely driven, or only driven short distances, then put a battery tender on it.
I know 70ma is a low draw...however it is in fact above ford's spec of 50ma....and if average is 35ma and I was able to get it that low then I'd effectively be able to double the time I don't have to start or drive the car....plus I'd also learn a valuable lesson and gain a little experience on finding parasitic draws...I'd personally much rather do that then put a tender on it or switch.
A question about this…I looked up the Amazon page and see this device includes a “desulfater”. I have two or three Battery Tenders and am wondering if they do that as well, or do I need a different battery maintainer?
Bill
I have been reading all of the replies - I have a 99 Mustang six, normally I can let it sit for weeks and still have it start fine. I always try to look at the date the battery was made, cold cranking amps, reserve capacity, and try to keep up on reviews as to what batteries seem to be good or bad. Also, i was watching battery video's recently, a friend has a 2000 Chevy Van that doesn't get driven much, and the alarm seems to drain the battery. Bought a solar powered battery charger, 30 watt, to keep it charged - but also the video was saying that conventional lead acid batteries like mine don't take well to being drained dead and recharged a lot of times, so it may be best to go to a AGM battery if you don't drive the car enough to keep it charged. However, Optima no longer makes good batteries, they are now crap, so stay away from that brand of AGM battery. And double check the size of your battery, mine is group 59. I bought a used car years ago, and the battery would go dead if I left the parking lights on for even 5 minutes. Turns out, the elderly owners kids had replaced the battery before selling, and he put in a battery that was too small.
To be honest I don't know much at all about batteries. I have group size 58 and I hear i can use 58 or 59. So not sure the difference between the 2. I just thought it was the physical size of the battery but there's probably more to the story
Ok... Everything you wanted to know about Group 58 but were afraid to ask:
Group 58 Battery Dimensions, Equivalents, Compatible Alternatives
Searching for the Group 58 Battery? We have all technical information: Specifications, Dimensions, List of Equivalents, and Comparison with Alternatives
batterygroupexpert.com
Next... Of these batteries, if I were going to buy one today... it would likely be be one on this this list:
MT-58 battery | Interstate Batteries
www.interstatebatteries.com
Duralast Battery BCI Group Size 58 610 CCA 58-DL
Shop for Duralast Battery BCI Group Size 58 610 CCA 58-DL with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.
www.autozone.com
Compare them for yourself and see if we come up with the same pick and we can banter about [why].
Of course, there are others too. If you find something you like and want to post a link, we'll offer you as much feedback as we can think of.
Battery on my 5.0 '95 Cobra drains in a couple days. Parasitic drain is 76 mAmps. Drops to 3 mA when I remove #8 fuse. So far I've checked: hood lamp, glove box, overhead lamp, trunk lamp, clock pod, replaced ignition key cylinder. All okay and removed stereo, CD unit and unplugged front and rear audio amps. What's left on this circuit is: key chime, power mirrors, instrument cluster, and anti-theft door open. How would I check these and is there something I'm missing?A weak electrical connection (including a ground connection) can cause an increase in draw.
Using a weak connection and common relay as an example of a circuit that stays energized with the ignition off (it could be any component that draws power).
Anywhoo.... Let's assume the possibility exists there might be some poor connections in our 30+ year old electric harnesses.
The circuit for our theoretical relay draws say... 40 Milliamps at 12 volts but the connection has dropped it down to 6 +/- volts.
What's the current draw now assuming the wattage of the relay remains the same?
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