Let's keep it all here though. Who wants to look through 3 different threads for the resolution?
I spruced up the thread title a bit too. If you'd like a different title but lack the perms to change it, hit me up any of the mods.
Ok guys I found something...I'm going to make a brand new post because for now I'm ruling out the GEM
Haha thanks I didn't know that could be done...Let's keep it all here though. Who wants to look through 3 different threads for the resolution?
I spruced up the thread title a bit too. If you'd like a different title but lack the perms to change it, hit me up any of the mods.
I know 70ma is a low draw...however it is in fact above ford's spec of 50ma....and if average is 35ma and I was able to get it that low then I'd effectively be able to double the time I don't have to start or drive the car....plus I'd also learn a valuable lesson and gain a little experience on finding parasitic draws...I'd personally much rather do that then put a tender on it or switch.70ma is nothing.
You are overthinking this whole thing and inventing problems.
Put a good (not walmart ect) battery in it.
If the vehicle is rarely driven, or only driven short distances, then put a battery tender on it.
A question about this…I looked up the Amazon page and see this device includes a “desulfater”. I have two or three Battery Tenders and am wondering if they do that as well, or do I need a different battery maintainer?Just get a tender for it:
El Cheapo with a desulfator function. If you wire in a permanent harness and connector, you can connect/disconnect it without even popping the hood.
I have been reading all of the replies - I have a 99 Mustang six, normally I can let it sit for weeks and still have it start fine. I always try to look at the date the battery was made, cold cranking amps, reserve capacity, and try to keep up on reviews as to what batteries seem to be good or bad. Also, i was watching battery video's recently, a friend has a 2000 Chevy Van that doesn't get driven much, and the alarm seems to drain the battery. Bought a solar powered battery charger, 30 watt, to keep it charged - but also the video was saying that conventional lead acid batteries like mine don't take well to being drained dead and recharged a lot of times, so it may be best to go to a AGM battery if you don't drive the car enough to keep it charged. However, Optima no longer makes good batteries, they are now crap, so stay away from that brand of AGM battery. And double check the size of your battery, mine is group 59. I bought a used car years ago, and the battery would go dead if I left the parking lights on for even 5 minutes. Turns out, the elderly owners kids had replaced the battery before selling, and he put in a battery that was too small.I have possible parasitic draw coming from fuse 39...I test for parasitic draw and I get .17amps (170 miliamps) and then if I wait long enough it does seem to go down to .040 to .050.....so my concern is that the GEM isn't always going to sleep....
Fuse 39 is the 5 amp fuse that has the draw....seeing how it's a 5 amp fuse I believe it just basically powers up the module...so at this point I either have some type of intermittent short causing it to not always shut off or no problem at all....or maybe issue with one of the switches....what are some ways I can go about troubleshooting? I'm thinking that the GEM just isn't going to sleep all the time...are there certain things I can test like door ajar switches headlights left on chimes etc that could lead me to a more direct answer?
To be honest I don't know much at all about batteries. I have group size 58 and I hear i can use 58 or 59. So not sure the difference between the 2. I just thought it was the physical size of the battery but there's probably more to the storyI have been reading all of the replies - I have a 99 Mustang six, normally I can let it sit for weeks and still have it start fine. I always try to look at the date the battery was made, cold cranking amps, reserve capacity, and try to keep up on reviews as to what batteries seem to be good or bad. Also, i was watching battery video's recently, a friend has a 2000 Chevy Van that doesn't get driven much, and the alarm seems to drain the battery. Bought a solar powered battery charger, 30 watt, to keep it charged - but also the video was saying that conventional lead acid batteries like mine don't take well to being drained dead and recharged a lot of times, so it may be best to go to a AGM battery if you don't drive the car enough to keep it charged. However, Optima no longer makes good batteries, they are now crap, so stay away from that brand of AGM battery. And double check the size of your battery, mine is group 59. I bought a used car years ago, and the battery would go dead if I left the parking lights on for even 5 minutes. Turns out, the elderly owners kids had replaced the battery before selling, and he put in a battery that was too small.
To be honest I don't know much at all about batteries. I have group size 58 and I hear i can use 58 or 59. So not sure the difference between the 2. I just thought it was the physical size of the battery but there's probably more to the story
Battery on my 5.0 '95 Cobra drains in a couple days. Parasitic drain is 76 mAmps. Drops to 3 mA when I remove #8 fuse. So far I've checked: hood lamp, glove box, overhead lamp, trunk lamp, clock pod, replaced ignition key cylinder. All okay and removed stereo, CD unit and unplugged front and rear audio amps. What's left on this circuit is: key chime, power mirrors, instrument cluster, and anti-theft door open. How would I check these and is there something I'm missing?A weak electrical connection (including a ground connection) can cause an increase in draw.
Using a weak connection and common relay as an example of a circuit that stays energized with the ignition off (it could be any component that draws power).
Anywhoo.... Let's assume the possibility exists there might be some poor connections in our 30+ year old electric harnesses.
The circuit for our theoretical relay draws say... 40 Milliamps at 12 volts but the connection has dropped it down to 6 +/- volts.
What's the current draw now assuming the wattage of the relay remains the same?
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