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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Post HCI install, car starts but doesn't want to idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter HoofnIt
  • Start date Start date Jul 4, 2004

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
1,175
0
36
North Carolina
Jul 4, 2004
#1
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #1
I got through retorquing the heads, headers, and intake last night. I also put in some new plugs; I think the old ones were fouled. The car will start but will not idle without my foot on the throttle. My check engine light is on but I figure this is from the EGR delete but it could be something else. I took a zip tie to keep that sensor plunger halfway in.
It started up and I managed to take for a drive around the block a few times but ended up stalling it out and it wouldn't start again. It's sitting down the street as we speak. I'm going to let it sit for a few hours, it's probably flooded from trying to start it. How do I adjust the idle? Is it under that tan/white rubber plug on the TB? Looks like an allen wrench will turn it. Anybody know which way I turn it to speed up the idle? THX.

Good news is the clutch/tranny is doing fine. I also put in a new SPEC I.
 

GTJake

Founding Member
Oct 28, 2002
3,049
0
56
Ann Arbor, MI
Jul 4, 2004
#2
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #2
Sounds like a timing issue. My car was the exact same way when I first drove it, adjusted the timing and it idled fine and gained a ton of power.

Jake
 

WhiteDevil

New Member
Feb 4, 2003
2,717
0
0
42
San Diego
Jul 4, 2004
#3
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #3
Yeah that allen wrench adjusts the idle bypass. I would crank that thing way open just so that you can keep it alive. Then go in there and set the timing. Most likeley your problem if its retarded even to like 4-5 degrees it may have trouble staying alive.
 

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
1,175
0
36
North Carolina
Jul 4, 2004
#4
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #4
Thanks for the replies guys. I ended up taking the distributer out and moving it one tooth. That seemed to help and it finally stayed running long enought to get a timing light on it...BUT, when I went to take the spout out, I had to use a screwdriver and out it came. It actually flew out and now it's no where to be found. I set the timing to about 30 and will have to get a spout tomorrow. I'll keep you posted. THX
 

OrangeMustangGt

Founding Member
Mar 7, 2002
1,976
0
36
Cape Cod, MA
Jul 4, 2004
#5
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #5
just jump out the spout for now, use a peice of #12 solid copper wire,bent into a u, i lost mine a long time ago
 

GTJake

Founding Member
Oct 28, 2002
3,049
0
56
Ann Arbor, MI
Jul 4, 2004
#6
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #6
Always use a needle nose. I lost one too, but actually found it a couple days when it fell out of my fender...hehe.


Jake
 

95snoozer

Active Member
Dec 14, 2002
2,572
1
48
RCR
Jul 4, 2004
#7
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #7
I dream of a day when everymember of this forum section can have heads cam

then we can all compete for track numbers


seems like we are headed that way. seems like we have a new one each day
 

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
1,175
0
36
North Carolina
Jul 5, 2004
#8
  • Jul 5, 2004
  • #8
UPDATE:

I took the car for a 70 mile spin last night. The temperature hoovered around 210 w/out the AC and 190ish with AC. The oil pressure was solid at 50psi. I am going to Ford today to get a new spout, it's only 6 bucks. The stupid X-pipe will not seal againt my new FRPP headers. I can't tell if all of the noise coming from the engine bay is the exhaust leak or if it's a REAL noisy valvetrain. I looked under the car this morning and NO leaks. Boy, is that a relief! I couldn't really get on the car because of the new clutch.
I'm slowly but surely working the bugs out of it. Thanks again guys, I would be struggling without your help.
 
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