post the best way to build to get LOW END TORQUE!

Foxfan88 · May 4, 2005

I want something that will absolutly rip you out of the hole from a stop.

I have a 93 longblock ready to build.
I'm thinking some GT40 heads, B cam, 4.10 gears and a 3000ish stall
and the lil thngs in between.

I was wanting to go with a higher compression piston over the hypereutectics, but you guys said and my dad also mentioned we could build a good motor without the pistons, BUT!!!! i was taking apart the motor and i accidently let a piston fall out and it made a small nick i think, but when i went back to find it again i couldnt find it.

Should the piston be ok?

5spd GT · May 4, 2005

I would have to see the piston to see if it was "okay" or not...but I wouldn't chance it. A set of pistons can be had for a couple hundred bucks and in fact Summit sells rebuild kits (hypereutic pistons) for around $250 with the oil pump/bearings and all.

Just remember when building a "torque monster"...you'll have a nice jump off the line but that will literally last a couple seconds before your in the higher rpms in which you would stay for the rest of the track so you wouldn't be running as quick as the "others" (generally speaking). Advancing the cam 2 or 4* will give you more bottom end or in fact just keeping the stock cam will do you well for torque.

BlackFox5.0 · May 4, 2005

My cam gives me diesel like torque. I see peak TQ around 3200-4000 RPM, which is 446RWTQ

90mustangGT · May 4, 2005

I wouldn't suggest the B cam for low end tq even with a 3000 stall. I would go for something with the durration in the teens on intake and 20's in exaust with some good lift. How about a stroker.

mackey · May 4, 2005

Kenne Bell

tunedin302 · May 5, 2005

BlackFox5.0 said:
My cam gives me diesel like torque. I see peak TQ around 3200-4000 RPM, which is 446RWTQ

........ but now you need to change the numbers in your sig.

Ranchero5.0 · May 5, 2005

Another very happy 2030 user. 1" spacer on a GT40 intake, good AFR 185 heads and longtubes, even running a cat pipe increased my torque output. The sig shows the old setup with an X. With a basic 7psi blower on top it pulls flat and hard.

Dang thing give me a woody just rolling into the throttle in third gear going through an intersection and it'll break loose. Second just walks the dog, first revs so quick people always turn to look.

Jamie

thumper460 · May 5, 2005

Keep the CC's on the intake around 140-150, the E cam would be a little better "grunt" than the B cam and install it ( the E ) in at 4 to 6* advanced ( 106-104 ICL) it will make tons of low end and still pull hard to 5200-5500 rpm!! The piston should be fine.. Unless you dented the ring groove and the rings bind up!!

Have the GT40 milled .030 to bump up the compression and save the cost of pistons!! the heads will have no intake interface issues ( we have gone as far as .040 off with no problems) and using the GT40 valve size will match the piston notches< so No issues there either!!
Have fun with your first engine build!! Dont forget tires will make it all hang together on those asphalt melting, tire ripping , chey wetting rips accross the intersection... Cool??

Just me...........................

Thumper

2002BLGT · May 5, 2005

im running GT40 -Y3030 aluminum heads , typhoon intake and B303 cam , low end sucks , top end screams , had to set timing at 17 degrees to get any low end at all out of it ........

friends running GT40 (not Ps) cast iron heads , explorer intake and trickflow stage 1 cam , and his bottom and top end are alot better than mine .....his automatic car before the stall would launch harder than my five speed car ....and his car is running alot less timing too ......

tunedin302 · May 5, 2005

Foxfan88 said:
I want something that will absolutly rip you out of the hole from a stop.

Get a diesel!

FastA$$89Vert · May 5, 2005

If your looking for low end, B cam is not the way to go. That makes more power above 4000. The e-cam makes great power down low.

chobracobra · May 5, 2005

i must say having the e cam does give you that seat in your pants feeling off the line, and the way it pulls through the powerband is great! power lets off around 5700 or thats what i feel anyway.

crazypete · May 5, 2005

4.56 gears!

Will make you flip into the backseat when you punch it

Smooth the piston with a steel wool pad. As long as it's a "nick" and not a gash, you'll be ok. You should see the things I've done to stock 130K pistons, then reused to get smooth idling zero oil burning motors.

Daggar · May 5, 2005

mackey said:
Kenne Bell

Thenemesis · May 5, 2005

Daggar said:
mackey said:

kenne belle

Click to expand...

crazypete · May 5, 2005

I always wondered......how IS the stock cam? How does it hold up next to the 2030? I was given the impression that if one wants low end torque and midend power, the stock cam pimps.

What does the 2030 sacrifice to do the stock cam's job better? I like stock cam for mushy things like emissions, idle and low end performance.......the low end is what you actually use all the time.

5spd GT · May 5, 2005

You may use the lowend all the time but it isn't under load...because like I said the "low rpms" when racing is gone in 1-2 seconds...

My custom cam gave me more torque than I had stock and much more higherend power (of course aided by the heads/intake)...

The only thing you will really "loose" is the "punch" in the low rpms right when you stab the throttle if you have the cam installed dot to dot with something like the TFS1, B, E, or similar spec'ed cam. You will get that building up feeling with the powerband.

But trust me...I am all about keeping throttle response, daily driver torque and all...just pointing out that you will be faster if you setup a car to spin some power up in the higher rpms because you are there probably 95% of the track (give or take)...

Ranchero5.0 · May 5, 2005

Stock cam is really low on lift and duration. 2030 has a lot of lift, not much duration and lets you lug the motor down below 1500rpm without bucking, try that with an E cam... As said above, in a race you are mostly out of the 'torque' range, but the 2030 is still making power up to 5k or so. I just shift at 5500 instead of 6k and feel the motor will last a lot longer.

Jamie

crazypete · May 6, 2005

I think of it backwards. I ask myself

"what is the car doing 95% of the time?"

and tune it to do that very well. For me, that means tuning for an rmp band 1000-4500 with the emphasis on 1500-3000 and lots of torque. That means every moment on the street is sheer bliss. Every intersection makes me happy.

Even in a race, it'll only go to 5K tops before it shifts.

On the street....urban environment....stoplight to stoplight drag racing...you only race out to maybe 50mph, 60 maybe then hit brakes for the next light. What difference will it make if my car runs out of steam when I'm 4 carlengths ahead? I've already won.

5spd GT · May 6, 2005

crazypete said:
I think of it backwards. I ask myself

"what is the car doing 95% of the time?"

and tune it to do that very well. For me, that means tuning for an rmp band 1000-4500 with the emphasis on 1500-3000 and lots of torque. That means every moment on the street is sheer bliss. Every intersection makes me happy.

Even in a race, it'll only go to 5K tops before it shifts.

On the street....urban environment....stoplight to stoplight drag racing...you only race out to maybe 50mph, 60 maybe then hit brakes for the next light. What difference will it make if my car runs out of steam when I'm 4 carlengths ahead? I've already won.

Well if you have any sort of steep gear (especially you do) you'll be past 3,000rpm before 15mph (373's or higher)...so from that race from 15-60mph your going to be in a higher rpm band but you have the car capable of launching better from 0-15mph...that seems like an awfully short time taken up in about 1 second. The thing is you actually don't use the "torque" during most races (especially on the street) where many go from a roll just because of probability of you stopping against a potential race. Most are encountered thru traffic. So are you going to upshift to a higher gear to use that 750-3,000 rpm powerband...nope...your going to downshift and use that 3k+

If your ahead by 60mph because of your good 0-15mph torque curve then he very well could be pulling on you and the other racer will see/notice this He'll know what is faster overall...and so will you

post the best way to build to get LOW END TORQUE!

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

BlackFox5.0

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

mackey

Active Member

tunedin302

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Ranchero5.0

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thumper460

2002BLGT

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tunedin302

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FastA$$89Vert

chobracobra

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crazypete

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Daggar

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Thenemesis

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crazypete

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5spd GT

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Ranchero5.0

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crazypete

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5spd GT

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post the best way to build to get LOW END TORQUE!

My Grandpa has great wood.

"the 5.0 owns all"

I felt sorry for girls because

Active Member

I AM the law!!!

The Voice of Reason

Well-Known Member

I AM the law!!!

New Member

All my crevices are greased.

New Member

Member

All my crevices are greased.

"the 5.0 owns all"

The Voice of Reason

All my crevices are greased.

"the 5.0 owns all"

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