post the best way to build to get LOW END TORQUE!

[crazypete]

Then I guess I'm talking about low-midrange grunt as our friend above says.

Isnt HP "a sum of torque under a curve" or something of that sort? I think we are talking about the same thing.

I dont know....I go out and look at my 138,000 mile almost 15 year old motor and I cant envision it doing well being spun up to 5K+. If I tune for a lower powerband, I save the motor and allow it to do it's job without undo wear while at the same time, making the SOTP dyno happy.

I'm automatic so shift points are irrelevant. The AOD is tuned to shift around 4500 rpm.....5200 or so at WOT. My only concern is running out of gear in 3rd. I'm contemplating....going back to 4:10's

 

[5spd GT]

Then I guess I'm talking about low-midrange grunt as our friend above says.

Isnt HP "a sum of torque under a curve" or something of that sort? I think we are talking about the same thing.

I dont know....I go out and look at my 138,000 mile almost 15 year old motor and I cant envision it doing well being spun up to 5K+. If I tune for a lower powerband, I save the motor and allow it to do it's job without undo wear while at the same time, making the SOTP dyno happy.

I'm automatic so shift points are irrelevant. The AOD is tuned to shift around 4500 rpm.....5200 or so at WOT. My only concern is running out of gear in 3rd. I'm contemplating....going back to 4:10's

I got out and look at my 153k mile motor I spin it to 6k...

The original thread maker has a 5spd so that changes it up a bit...

But as I stated...trust me I love driveability (I get into it about that quite a bit) and low end torque...but in reality the car is going to be faster with a powerband that doesn't want to cut off past 4500-5k...relatively speaking...

 

[darthcual]

Dont forget a good suspension and tires to go w/ that power cuz that will make all the difference if you want that pull. If the tires just break loose your not gonna feel that lay back in ur seat holy shmidt im goin fast feeling.

 

[tmoss]

Isnt HP "a sum of torque under a curve" or something of that sort? I think we are talking about the same thing.

HP = TQ x RPM/5252

 

[sunil6784]

The best way to get lots of power from any car is put a big aluminum spoiler (aluminum saves weight) and a LOT of decals...flames, window stickers...

 

[5.0alltheway]

i am runnin a stock cam w/gt40ps milled.040,good port and polish .1.7rockers,performer ,and a holley 670w/410s out back.i can burn my 245s thru 3rd just by dumping the clutch at 2500rpm,gobs of torque and low end grunt

 

[Michael Yount]

If you want to build a torque monster look at tmoss' sig (he posted)....

 

[BubStang]

Low end torque

The roller cam I just pulled from my 351W made 500ftlbs at 2800rpm and rose gently to 515ftlbs at 6500rpm. It is a custom grind from Lunati, is for sale and I have the cam card and a dyno sheet to show the curve. It has almost no overlap so would likely meet emissions requirements. Your motor might make more or less depending on the ci and head flow, but the curve would be the same. email if you are interested in seeing the card for ideas, or buying it.

[email protected]

 

[Michael Yount]

When he says low rpm, I think he means MUCH lower than 2800 rpm. Racer low rpm and street car low rpm are usually quite different. And that cam, as you note, would likely react quite differently (wilder) in a 302 than a 351.

 

[5spd GT]

Sorry this is a bit offtopic but, Tmoss...on your website it says put "Make sure you put the beaded side of the gasket towards the head"...but I thought the raised side of the gasket went towards the intake? Or am I talking about two different things...

 

[tmoss]

The beaded side goes on the head side - most gaskets are marked with which side is which. The Fel Pro MS93334 kit gasket has the head side marked as such.

 

[5spd GT]

The beaded side goes on the head side - most gaskets are marked with which side is which. The Fel Pro MS93334 kit gasket has the head side marked as such.

The FEL-1250 gasket doesn't it have any markings on it I believe. I thought the flat side went against the head and the raised side (silicone looking material) goes towards the intake...that is what "everyone" else says...but not everyone is as intake savvy as you...

 

[Ranchero5.0]

Off topic, but I don't think the 1250's really care. The silicone bead was applied to allow the intake gasket to be reused. Only problem is if you don't use a coating of never seize the dang things tear apart anyway...

Another oddball thing I've found is car with gears (3.73's , 4.10's) seem to spend more time revving than pulling (if that makes any sense). The low RPM cams love to lug down with 3.55's or 3.27's, but don't seem to work as well on a geared car. The E cam hates to lug, but revs quicker on a geared car. I don't want to sound like a meathead, but I've seen stock cammed AOD cars go down the track quicker with 3.73's vs 4.10's or 4.56's. They even sound different.

So the big question should have been 'what cam style works best with a 4.10 gearset' For that I'm thinking either an E or F type cam. For 3.27's or 3.55's, a 2030. 3.55's are about the limit for an E cam with good heads. I've run an E on a stock longblock with 3.27's and even an AOD and it acted and drove almost like a stock cam (weird)

More rambling later.

Jamie

 

[twolo4u2c2]

look at my sig......guess what my TQ is. OFF THE SCALE!!

 

[BubStang]

Yount, mine is a street car and it is a beast leaving the red lights and stop signs. 2800 is only high rpm in a diesel. It still makes 450ftlbs just of idle, I simply used 2800 cause that is where it hits 500. Whatever the case, the profile of the cam creates a huge amount of low end torque. The cam was designed for the street, not the strip.

 

[5spd GT]

BubStang - What mods do you have? Out of curiosity...

 

[BubStang]

its a carb'd 351W with TFS-R heads, roller cam, Vic Jr intake, 10.5:1 compression with a custom AOD tranny.

 

[5spd GT]

Your making 450ft. lbs off idle...and 500rpm in a N/A 351 at 2800rpm?????

 

[BubStang]

Yep. It's actually stroked to 408ci. I told a buddy at Schexnayder Racing Engines what I wanted for a street machine and he spec'd the engine build. It's a 351W block from a 1974 Cougar bored .30 with a Eagle 4340 4" crank. SRP rods and I think JE pistons (10.5:1) with TFS-R heads, out of the box no port work. The intake with this dyno config was an Edelbrock 351 AirGap. 2" SuperComp headers, with dual catalyitic converter and Dynomax exhuast. I am in LA right now but will be back Monday and can give the spec on the cam card. It is some Lunati grind. Also with this build it had hydraulic roller lifters with stud mount rockers.

I have since taken that cam out, put in one a bit larger with more duration, replaced the hydraulic lifters with solid rollers. Replaced the AirGap intake with a Vic Jr intake and had Biggs rebuild the 750hp carb. This build made 579/565 on the dyno. Keep in mind the heads out of the box flow quite a bit as the intake valves are 2.08" and the exhuast are 1.6".

In the first build, the cam profile was the secret, I think. I still drive it on the street quite a bit in the Houston area.

I'm looking for a stronger block so I can add a power adder. These stock blocks, pre-1975 I think, can go just over 700hp without trouble.

 

[ExplodingGopher]

get a 460 like me, but get a towing cam for it, now thats cracking the windshield kind of torque at the lowend lol.