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  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech

Power Brake booster removal?

  • Thread starter Thread starter russosborne
  • Start date Start date Nov 25, 2009
R

russosborne

Member
Nov 15, 2009
93
0
6
Glendale, AZ, USA
Nov 25, 2009
#1
  • Nov 25, 2009
  • #1
Well, my Chilton's doesn't seem worth the $8 I paid for it. It hardly has any useful information. Guess I need to save up for a factory service manual on cd.

Anyways, how do I remove the power brake booster? Can't find the nuts/bolts. Are they got to from inside the car? I already have the master cylinder loose, but need to disconnect the rod from the pedal. Yet another place the Chilton's bites. They don't have anything about the booster in the power brake section. I take it the rod goes through the booster? I tried pulling a little on it, I had thought that one the power brake cars there was a short rod from the booster to the m.c.

Been way too long since I have really done anything on this era car. My 79 Pinto has power nothing, and fortunately I haven't had to really do anything to it other than a tune up since I bought it.

Thanks,
Russ
 

barrylee66

Member
Jul 4, 2005
45
1
7
SPRING HILL FL.
Nov 28, 2009
#2
  • Nov 28, 2009
  • #2
you get to them from inside and they are hard to get to. take the drivers seat out. and I think there is a brace you have to remove under the dash. I am 6'2" and it was a bitch. might be easier to remove the dash top and go from the top.
 

Wart

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!
Founding Member
Sep 1, 1998
408
3
58
NE Ohio
Nov 29, 2009
#3
  • Nov 29, 2009
  • #3
Using a 3/8 drive it takes about a foot long extension. universal joint and I think a deep well socket.

The rod end is retained with a hair pin. Pull the pin, partially remove the rod, remove the brake light switch, don't lose the rod end bushings.

Shouldn't need to remove the seat if average height.
 
R

russosborne

Member
Nov 15, 2009
93
0
6
Glendale, AZ, USA
Nov 29, 2009
#4
  • Nov 29, 2009
  • #4
Thanks to both.
Well, I was planning on removing the seats anyway. Stripping the car down to the shell and hoping I don't find much more rust than there already is showing. In fact I got the rear seat out tonight, floors seem solid so far. I still need to get the carpet out. Front seats are next on the plan. Plan being whatever I feel like doing at the time.

I am about 6'1" and weigh a tad over 300 pounds. So I need all the room I can get.

Thanks,
Russ
 
R

russosborne

Member
Nov 15, 2009
93
0
6
Glendale, AZ, USA
Dec 4, 2009
#5
  • Dec 4, 2009
  • #5
barrylee66 said:
you get to them from inside and they are hard to get to. take the drivers seat out. and I think there is a brace you have to remove under the dash. I am 6'2" and it was a bitch. might be easier to remove the dash top and go from the top.
Click to expand...

Well, I haven't gotten it out yet. I was sure I had some universal joints for my socket set, but apparently not anymore.

And I can say for sure that taking the dash top off, if you meant the pad and the metal piece, does nothing to help. At least with this car(had ac, the dash stuff is still all there). There is so much stuff in the way I couldn't even see anything more than plastic duct work.
But at least taking that off wasn't hard. I toyed with the idea of taking the instrument panel out, but I'd rather not if I don't absolutely have to. That is the one thing on the car I am hoping to leave in place. It is in excellent condition and all I would do is break something.

But thanks for the help. I just need to get a droplight and get under the dash. Got all the seats and console out now, so at least I don't have to worry about damaging them.

Russ
 
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