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Power locks

  • Thread starter Thread starter 68EFIvert
  • Start date Start date May 31, 2007
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
May 31, 2007
#1
  • May 31, 2007
  • #1
I am looking at purchasing this door lock kit.

The only thing holding me back is the price. I can kind of justify it though. $110 for new latches, $30 for motors and then not having to fuss with the whole desiging a way to hold the motors in place. You are paying $160 for their design work.

I know some of you guys have installed your own power locks. How did you do it? What did you buy? How difficult is it and how long did it take you to do it?
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
1
69
BC Canada
May 31, 2007
#2
  • May 31, 2007
  • #2
Wow that is pricy, and with that kit it looks like you can no-longer use your regular key to lock/unlock in event of a dead battery, etc.

What I did was buy generic power door lock actuators from my local car audio/security shop. I believe they cost $20 each and came with everything needed except the wiring.

The install was actually very easy. All it is is a push/pull actuator that push/pulls a metal rod. You connect the metal rod to your existing door lock linkage and you are done. It literally pulls/pushes the door lock button up/down for you.

Figuring out and installing the wiring will take you longer than figuring out and installing the door lock hardware itself.
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
May 31, 2007
#3
  • May 31, 2007
  • #3
I put in a set of lock solenoids from a 82 Thunderbird. It took a couple days of dissassembling, designing, testing, fabricating and re-assembling. Not knowing your skills or you mine, I would still say it was somewhat difficult.

They were dirt cheap, but I guess I'm a junk yard tech kind of guy.

 
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
May 31, 2007
#4
  • May 31, 2007
  • #4
BottleFed70 said:
Wow that is pricy, and with that kit it looks like you can no-longer use your regular key to lock/unlock in event of a dead battery, etc.

What I did was buy generic power door lock actuators from my local car audio/security shop. I believe they cost $20 each and came with everything needed except the wiring.

The install was actually very easy. All it is is a push/pull actuator that push/pulls a metal rod. You connect the metal rod to your existing door lock linkage and you are done. It literally pulls/pushes the door lock button up/down for you.

Figuring out and installing the wiring will take you longer than figuring out and installing the door lock hardware itself.
Click to expand...

How did you mount the actuators? Did you make a bracket and if so where did you attach it? Got any Pics?

Tim65GT : Thanks for the pics and the junkyard options.
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
1
69
BC Canada
Jun 1, 2007
#5
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #5
68EFIvert said:
How did you mount the actuators? Did you make a bracket and if so where did you attach it? Got any Pics?
Click to expand...

Sorry, don't have any pics. But I did see a post not long ago with pics and a description that looked almost exactly the same as my install. Maybe try a search.

As for the actuator. It's mounted to the inside door sheetmetal (the sheetmetal directly behind the interior door panel). All I had to do was drill 2 holes and use the screws provided.
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Jun 1, 2007
#6
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #6
I also installed elec locks on my daughters Honda. They were MUCH easier. I used the cheap plastic actuators that you can get on eBay for almost nothing. I paid $1 ea + shipping.

BottleFed70:
Figuring out and installing the wiring will take you longer than figuring out and installing the door lock hardware itself.
Click to expand...

True...

Places like 12V.com has a lot of relay wiring info. I could post a pic of how I did 'em.
 
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
Jun 1, 2007
#7
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #7
That would be great! Did you guys wire them for switches or by using the plunger? Thanks for the help, you guys just saved me a ton of money!
 

unrealmach1

New Member
Dec 22, 2005
89
0
0
Detroit, MI
Jun 1, 2007
#8
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #8
I have not installed mine yet, but I got everything including a keyless entry system off ebay for around $25 with shipping. They came with brackets to attach the power lock to the standard manual lock rod. After that you just need to drill the holes to mount the power lock unit.
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
1
69
BC Canada
Jun 1, 2007
#9
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #9
I didn't install any switches.

I just connected it to my alarm system. Alarm on = doors locked, alarm off = doors unlocked. I can also manually lock/unlock using my key or pulling on the lock knob if needed.

Any decent alarm system will have the ability to control the door locks. You may want to consider installing an alarm as part of this project (if you havn't already).
 
6

66HertzClone

New Member
Aug 24, 2004
428
0
0
Central New Jersey
Jun 1, 2007
#10
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #10
I installed a keyless entry system from Electric Life. Here is a photo of the bracket I made to hold the actuator to the door, there are other photos of the install on page 7 of my CarDomain photos. I used a plate instead of the straps to eliminate any chance of the actuator moving around after install. Once you've gone thru the pain of making the actuator rod and getting it adjusted correctly, you will understand what I'm talking about.

 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Jun 1, 2007
#11
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #11
68EFIvert
That would be great! Did you guys wire them for switches or by using the plunger?
Click to expand...

On my Stang I interfaced into the alarm wiring to have remote lock/arm and unlock/disarm capability. I also incorporated a switch into the center console.

I never use the switch, so when I did the locks on my daughters Honda I skipped putting a switch or switches in. It simply locks/unlocks with the alarm signal.

I won't be able to post a pic of the wiring 'til later when I get home.
 
T

truck90278

New Member
Jun 4, 2006
382
1
0
Redondo Beach, CA
Jun 1, 2007
#12
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #12
We are currently in the process of installing the Electric life kit in our 65 Mustang (AdanInChains). I wanted to simplify the adjustment process, so I fabricated a small bracked that mounted the actuator and was able to be screwed to the new door latch by drilling and tapping 2 8-32 screws into a small flange on the door latch. On another thread, the poster comented about the fact that the actuator had a longer throw than the locking rod does. How I dealt with that was by adding two small "cable stops" to the rod you use to connect the actuator to the lock rod and allowing the actuator rod to move freely thru the small clamp assy which attaches the actuator rod to the lock rod on the latch. By using the stops, you can control how much throw is provided to the lock rod. This also allows you to adjust the actuator/rod easier and allows for intial adjustment out of the vehicle. You do have to be careful when drilling the holes. Unfortuantely, I am on travel for the next month or I could post pictures. The Autoworks kit is $300 and does NOT include a remote entry. I bought ours throw A1 Electric and got all of it for about $100
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Jun 1, 2007
#13
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #13
Here is how I wired mine.

The relays are standard Bosch type that can be had from eBay for about $10

The switch is a standard 80's Ford type lock switch

 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
1
69
BC Canada
Jun 1, 2007
#14
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #14
You should be able to do it with only 2 relays. (At least I did). Here's the schematic:

View attachment 383240

Tim65GT: Looks like you used seperate relays for the alarm locking/unlocking or the switch locking/unlocking. That isn't necessary with the correct switch/wiring.
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Jun 1, 2007
#15
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #15
BottleFed70
You should be able to do it with only 2 relays. (At least I did). Here's the schematic
Click to expand...

Brilliant!

Where were you when I was wiring mine? lol

I got the 4 relay setup idea from 12v.com. It seemed to make sense at the time and I didn't try to simplify it any.
 
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
Jun 1, 2007
#16
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #16
BottleFed70 said:
You should be able to do it with only 2 relays. (At least I did). Here's the schematic:

View attachment 383172

Tim65GT: Looks like you used seperate relays for the alarm locking/unlocking or the switch locking/unlocking. That isn't necessary with the correct switch/wiring.
Click to expand...

So the wires from 87A don't go to anything?

Do you just split wires A and B that go to the actuators or is this schematic for only one door?
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
1
69
BC Canada
Jun 1, 2007
#17
  • Jun 1, 2007
  • #17
68EFIvert said:
So the wires from 87A don't go to anything?

Do you just split wires A and B that go to the actuators or is this schematic for only one door?
Click to expand...


87a goes to chassis ground (battery - ) that what that symbol means.

And yes, you just split the wires. You could use this same schematic for 4 door power locks.
 
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
Jun 2, 2007
#18
  • Jun 2, 2007
  • #18
Thanks for all the help. Wiring is obviously my weak point, At least for now.
 

70dvr

New Member
Jul 25, 2006
46
0
0
Brandon, Florida
Jun 2, 2007
#19
  • Jun 2, 2007
  • #19
This is how I did mine. Use them everyday and no problems. http://home.tampabay.rr.com/bloodybill/13%20Power%20Door%20Locks.htm
 
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