Power locks

Wow that is pricy, and with that kit it looks like you can no-longer use your regular key to lock/unlock in event of a dead battery, etc.

What I did was buy generic power door lock actuators from my local car audio/security shop. I believe they cost $20 each and came with everything needed except the wiring.

The install was actually very easy. All it is is a push/pull actuator that push/pulls a metal rod. You connect the metal rod to your existing door lock linkage and you are done. It literally pulls/pushes the door lock button up/down for you.

Figuring out and installing the wiring will take you longer than figuring out and installing the door lock hardware itself.
 
I put in a set of lock solenoids from a 82 Thunderbird. It took a couple days of dissassembling, designing, testing, fabricating and re-assembling. Not knowing your skills or you mine, I would still say it was somewhat difficult.

They were dirt cheap, but I guess I'm a junk yard tech kind of guy.:p

DSC05666.webp
 
Wow that is pricy, and with that kit it looks like you can no-longer use your regular key to lock/unlock in event of a dead battery, etc.

What I did was buy generic power door lock actuators from my local car audio/security shop. I believe they cost $20 each and came with everything needed except the wiring.

The install was actually very easy. All it is is a push/pull actuator that push/pulls a metal rod. You connect the metal rod to your existing door lock linkage and you are done. It literally pulls/pushes the door lock button up/down for you.

Figuring out and installing the wiring will take you longer than figuring out and installing the door lock hardware itself.

How did you mount the actuators? Did you make a bracket and if so where did you attach it? Got any Pics?

Tim65GT : Thanks for the pics and the junkyard options.:nice:
 
How did you mount the actuators? Did you make a bracket and if so where did you attach it? Got any Pics?

Sorry, don't have any pics. But I did see a post not long ago with pics and a description that looked almost exactly the same as my install. Maybe try a search.

As for the actuator. It's mounted to the inside door sheetmetal (the sheetmetal directly behind the interior door panel). All I had to do was drill 2 holes and use the screws provided.
 
I also installed elec locks on my daughters Honda. They were MUCH easier. I used the cheap plastic actuators that you can get on eBay for almost nothing. I paid $1 ea + shipping.

BottleFed70:
Figuring out and installing the wiring will take you longer than figuring out and installing the door lock hardware itself.

True...

Places like 12V.com has a lot of relay wiring info. I could post a pic of how I did 'em.
 
I have not installed mine yet, but I got everything including a keyless entry system off ebay for around $25 with shipping. They came with brackets to attach the power lock to the standard manual lock rod. After that you just need to drill the holes to mount the power lock unit.
 
I didn't install any switches.

I just connected it to my alarm system. Alarm on = doors locked, alarm off = doors unlocked. I can also manually lock/unlock using my key or pulling on the lock knob if needed.

Any decent alarm system will have the ability to control the door locks. You may want to consider installing an alarm as part of this project (if you havn't already).
 
I installed a keyless entry system from Electric Life. Here is a photo of the bracket I made to hold the actuator to the door, there are other photos of the install on page 7 of my CarDomain photos. I used a plate instead of the straps to eliminate any chance of the actuator moving around after install. Once you've gone thru the pain of making the actuator rod and getting it adjusted correctly, you will understand what I'm talking about.

597572_124_full.jpg
 
68EFIvert
That would be great! Did you guys wire them for switches or by using the plunger?

On my Stang I interfaced into the alarm wiring to have remote lock/arm and unlock/disarm capability. I also incorporated a switch into the center console.

I never use the switch, so when I did the locks on my daughters Honda I skipped putting a switch or switches in. It simply locks/unlocks with the alarm signal.

I won't be able to post a pic of the wiring 'til later when I get home.
 
We are currently in the process of installing the Electric life kit in our 65 Mustang (AdanInChains). I wanted to simplify the adjustment process, so I fabricated a small bracked that mounted the actuator and was able to be screwed to the new door latch by drilling and tapping 2 8-32 screws into a small flange on the door latch. On another thread, the poster comented about the fact that the actuator had a longer throw than the locking rod does. How I dealt with that was by adding two small "cable stops" to the rod you use to connect the actuator to the lock rod and allowing the actuator rod to move freely thru the small clamp assy which attaches the actuator rod to the lock rod on the latch. By using the stops, you can control how much throw is provided to the lock rod. This also allows you to adjust the actuator/rod easier and allows for intial adjustment out of the vehicle. You do have to be careful when drilling the holes. Unfortuantely, I am on travel for the next month or I could post pictures. The Autoworks kit is $300 and does NOT include a remote entry. I bought ours throw A1 Electric and got all of it for about $100
 
BottleFed70
You should be able to do it with only 2 relays. (At least I did). Here's the schematic

Brilliant!

Where were you when I was wiring mine? lol

I got the 4 relay setup idea from 12v.com. It seemed to make sense at the time and I didn't try to simplify it any.
 
You should be able to do it with only 2 relays. (At least I did). Here's the schematic:

View attachment 383172

Tim65GT: Looks like you used seperate relays for the alarm locking/unlocking or the switch locking/unlocking. That isn't necessary with the correct switch/wiring.

So the wires from 87A don't go to anything?

Do you just split wires A and B that go to the actuators or is this schematic for only one door?
 
So the wires from 87A don't go to anything?

Do you just split wires A and B that go to the actuators or is this schematic for only one door?


87a goes to chassis ground (battery - ) that what that symbol means.

And yes, you just split the wires. You could use this same schematic for 4 door power locks.