Power - Temperature Related

Synned

took tubgirl on a date and got banned
Mar 31, 2005
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Philly
Well...my car feels really bad after a little bit of driving...it feels like it has no balls. It wont get up and go from a stop, feels horrible.
I also noticed that my temperature gauge does not move up from 1/4 from C, no matter what I am doing. Even through WOT runs it stays there...and I was wondering if the sensor that tells the car what temp it is running at is f'ing up and that could be a reason why theres missing power?
Maybe the ECT sensor?

Thanks
Joe
 
Joe, you can check the calibration of the ECT if you desire.

The 5N95 gauges are arguably less accurate than the fox gauges, so I wouldnt read too much into the guage reading until you get an aftermarket gauge installed.

Good luck.
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
 
Assuming the sn95 is the same as the foxes (and I think they are in this regard), you have 2 temp sensors. One sends a signal to the dash gauge, and the other sends a signal to the EEC.
So even if the gauge temp looks ok, you can have a funky signal going back to the computer.

Within the EEC there are several tables for a/f and spark advance which are based on ECT readings. So, if your ECT is sending bogas signals to the EEC, the EEC would start messing with the fuel and timing. The EEC will always do what it was programmed to do.

I am not trying to say that the ECT is the problem, just using that as an example of how a bad sensor can cause the motor to fall on its face. Other potential problems are the O2s, ACT, etc.
The best thing to do is pull the codes. We can guess and throw parts at the car, but the computer can help narrow down the list.

jason
 
Thanks for the help guys, going to pull the codes today.
Another reason ECT jumped to my head is because in the morning the car takes a bit longer to start, I know this just might be fuel pressure but if I try to start it when its warmer its fine. It cranks for a while when its cold...usually depending on how long it has sat.
Joe
 
Does anyone have any ideas? It's driving me crazy...sometimes the car has no balls its not even funny how ****ty it feels. I then let it cool down for a little bit and there we go...power power.
 
I dont think anyone is going to be able to help much from a keyboard. It would take testing sensors while the car is hot to perhaps try and narrow down what's going on (assuming no codes).

Dont forget to check things like fuel pressure and TPS readings while the motor is hot.

Good luck.