Power Windows Quit And Wont Go Down

Corey92

New Member

Sep 9, 2013

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Sep 9, 2013

#1

• Sep 9, 2013

• #1

hello everyone,
Ok well were do i start? at first my windows were going up and down no problems, then they were going in and out i had to pull the switch panel up and kinda slightly twist it and then the windows would go up and down. well one night i parked my car and when i woke up in the morning to go to work the windows wouldnt go down at all. there is no hum no nothing. i checked the breaker wit a fuse checker and it lights up so i assum the breaker is good. by the way its a 1993 mustang hatch 5.0
Any ideas?

 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard

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a van down by the river

Sep 9, 2013

#2

• Sep 9, 2013

• #2

I would take off the drivers side armrest and have a look at the connector for the window switches

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 9, 2013

#3

• Sep 9, 2013

• #3

I agree. With the switch loose, try to recreate the scenario so you can see exactly what is being manipulated when they work and don't work.

Does the passenger-side windows-switch function (even while the driver's side is acting up)?

 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician

Aug 27, 2012

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Sep 9, 2013

#4

• Sep 9, 2013

• #4

I assume this is only one side and not both window switches? Do the door locks work?

Pull the window switch out and unscrew it from the plastic part holding it together. Turn it over to expose the metal holes in the bottom of the switch. With the key on, take a test light- ground the alligator clip and stick the probe in the down or up hole and push the corresponding button- see if the test light goes on. If it does you have power to that switch and the button is bad which is very common. LMR and other vendors sell them or you can try and scrounge the JY or boards. If there is no power then check to see if the switch is loose, the little studs corroded, or for breaks in the wiring in the door and through the door jamb.

 

Corey92

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Sep 9, 2013

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Sep 10, 2013

#5

• Sep 10, 2013

• #5

well i cant get them to work at all the passenger side stopped working a while back but was able to roll it up and down from driver side and about three weeks ago the driver side controls just quit. and it supposably had power locks but they never worked ive had car four years and never had power locks. and ok ill have to get a test light. it was just odd cause usually peoples windows get stuck down or its usually just one window but both mine said ta hell with you haha

 

Corey92

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Sep 9, 2013

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Sep 10, 2013

#6

• Sep 10, 2013

• #6

and i already took apart armrest

 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard

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a van down by the river

Sep 10, 2013

#7

• Sep 10, 2013

• #7

sounds like a short on the ground side

 

Corey92

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Sep 9, 2013

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Sep 11, 2013

#8

• Sep 11, 2013

• #8

all i found is a ground on the door i cleaned it up and still nothing if it wasnt for a sunroof my car would be a oven

 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard

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a van down by the river

Sep 11, 2013

#9

• Sep 11, 2013

• #9

swap in a known good drivers side switch set. The passenger side gets it power through the drivers side. If neither work, then the drivers side switch is likely the culprit

 

Corey92

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Sep 9, 2013

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Sep 11, 2013

#10

• Sep 11, 2013

• #10

would one off a 88 gt vert work??

 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard

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Nov 29, 1999

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a van down by the river

Sep 11, 2013

#11

• Sep 11, 2013

• #11

yep, they will work. Have you tried taking apart your switches? I've done this in the past and was able to succesfully revive them.

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-eL-a3BuOg

 

Corey92

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Sep 9, 2013

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Sep 11, 2013

#12

• Sep 11, 2013

• #12

ill have to give it a shot

 

Corey92

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Sep 9, 2013

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Sep 13, 2013

#13

• Sep 13, 2013

• #13

Ok well i just went out there pulled apart door panel again i un-pluged the window motor and tested the positive and ground coming from the car that would come threw as i press window up and down buttons and got 9 volts. but yet motor makes no noise is it even possible for both motors for both windows to fail at the same time?and does this mean motors failed???

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 13, 2013

#14

• Sep 13, 2013

• #14

If you still have it apart, bench test the motor(s) for peace of mind....

 

Corey92

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Sep 18, 2013

#15

• Sep 18, 2013

• #15

im not sure how to do that. Can u please explain?

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 18, 2013

#16

• Sep 18, 2013

• #16

Very briefly connect 12V to one side of the motor and ground to the other.

 

mikestang63

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Sep 18, 2013

#17

• Sep 18, 2013

• #17

HISSIN50 said:

Very briefly connect 12V to one side of the motor and ground to the other.

Click to expand...

Hook up a 12v test light from a battery to the power lead on the motor and ground the other lead of the motor. I'd rather risk a blown bulb in the light if hooking up a shorted motor to a battery.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Sep 18, 2013

#18

• Sep 18, 2013

• #18

mikestang63 said:

Hook up a 12v test light from a battery to the power lead on the motor and ground the other lead of the motor. I'd rather risk a blown bulb in the light if hooking up a shorted motor to a battery.

Click to expand...

The point of a bench test is to remove the motor from its environment and use an alternate power and transmission supply.

If the motor had a short, he should have noticed it by now in the course of his diagnostics. Proper circuit protection is always used during a bench test anyways.

 

mikestang63

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Aug 27, 2012

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Sep 18, 2013

#19

• Sep 18, 2013

• #19

HISSIN50 said:

The point of a bench test is to remove the motor from its environment and use an alternate power and transmission supply.

If the motor had a short, he should have noticed it by now in the course of his diagnostics. Proper circuit protection is always used during a bench test anyways.

Click to expand...

Agreed. If he knows what to do. My impression was he was going to hook up two wires to the motor straight from a battery source. My reading of of the thread was he tested the switch and the power wire, not the motor itself. Apologize if that was in error.

Carry on.

 

C

Chris Marlin

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Jul 28, 2013

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Sep 19, 2013

#20

• Sep 19, 2013

• #20

9 volts? I would make sure you have 12. Did you try the other switch?