Predator tunes - what #'s are you using?

[Red03Mustang]

Hey all. Just wondering what any of you might be using for some of the #'s in your Diablo Predators. I'm looking for #'s related to shift points, shift firmness, etc. Some other stuff too, but right now I'm at work and can't think of some of the things I'm missing.

I reset all the parameters in mine, and then adjusted the stuff myself. That should keep the fuel ratio stock, correct? That's the only thing I was worried about. I don't want to mess with that any until I really know what I'm doing. I want to run on 87-89 gas since it's so high priced right now. I do a LOT of driving, so every little bit I save helps. If I have to run on 91 though, I can.

So what do you guys used for some of your settings?

 

[Black 2001 GT]

As far as I know you have to use premium unleaded. I think it says so in the manual.

 

[Red03Mustang]

When I reset the parameters to stock, that should set everything back to factory stock settings. So, if I modify stuff after that and then install the tune, only the things I modify should change. That's my line of thinking. So if I don't modify the spark advance or the air/fuel stuff after resetting all the parameters, they should be setup with the stock setup still, right?

What are some of you using as your shift points? I'm toying around with that right now. Also shift firmness. Just about got that where I need it. Traction control off and idle settings are nice too.

 

[YtnGT]

I a using r50a with awsf-22c .055 plugs. I am working on a street tune not a drag tune...
Test I
Stock predator tune

Test II
Stock predator tune
+5% WOT fuel 2K-7K

Test III
Stock predator tune
+5 WOT fuel 2K-7K
+5 WOT timing 2K-7K

Test IV
+4 WOT Timing 2K-7K
0 WOT Fuel 2K-7K

Test IIV
+5 WOT Timing 2K-7K
+3 WOT Fuel 2K-7K

At +5% Timing 21 deg is the peak timing value that I have data logged @ 70 F.

I would be interested to know what others are running in their predator.

 

[Red03Mustang]

cool, a response!

Thanks. It's good to see someone finally respond to this thread. I guess either everyone who has a predator is tired of posting about it, or they just don't care, or something.

I'm looking for some good shift point #'s. I want my fuel #'s to remain stock while I change other stuff. Is this possible, and what do I have to do to get that to happen? Right now I'm running on 89 octane, and my engine doesn't ping or anything at WOT even. I'm thinking maybe I pulled off modifying some of the other settings without modding the fuel and spark settings. I could be wrong, but my engine doesn't act like it.

I tell you what, I love the shift settings and the torque and firmness controls. Those are wonderful for an auto owner like myself. For someone who likes to tinker like I do with things like this, the predator is a great tool.

 

[YtnGT]

I went out and got my notecard out of the car... I have to write things down to keep from forgetting them.

Stock Diablo tune has 1-2 @ 5700rpm
I got up to 5950rpm for 1-2 that made my observed shift point 6100.
Right now I am using 5800rpm in the diablo and the observed shift point is approx 6000rpm.

I was running 2-3 @ 5700rpm and shifting right on 6000rpm. I have a note that says "predator tune 2-3 shift point + 100" and I do not remember the original setting.

I have turned off the torque modulation 1-2 & 2-3. I keep the shift pressure set at factory setting.

NOTE: I have a J-Mod shift kit in the 4r70w... This makes a big difference. The shifts occur extremely quick with stock line pressure programming. Adding more line pressure with the J-mod & almost factory HP is not needed or recommended. My trans settings will not work well with a stock trans!!!

On r50a you have the option of modifying the stock tune. That is what you want to do... leave the timing and fuel settings alone and just modify the trans settings. Good luck.

 

[Red03Mustang]

Thanks for the help and your settings. That's interesting to see what you are using.

I learned something interesting tonight. I took my car out for a spin after some programming. I set all the shift points to 5250. Well, I decided to test it out. I stopped, floored it, and watched the tach climb up to the 5250 mark, then suddenly jump like the car was running v-tec or something all the way to about 6100 rpm's, then it switched HARD to second. I let off, very puzzled at what was going on.

At first I thought that for some reason, my re-tune didn't take. The prior tune I had set my car to shift at 6000 on the 1-2 shift.

But, I finally remembered something and figured out what it was. Even though I'd set my shift points lower, my rev limiter was still set at 6050. So, the car has just enough time for the tach to jump up to the 6050 mark before it hits second. I guess it is essentially making my automatic power-shift at WOT everytime.

I would leave it that way, but I don't want my transmission to die early. So I'm going to lower the rev limiter to about 100 rpm's higher than my shift points and see how that goes. I'm going to have to test it out and see if that's a good place to set the rev limit or not, because I have no idea.

Anyway, since I didn't know about that, I thought I'd share it with the rest of you. Maybe I'm the only one who didn't know that, maybe I'm not. If not, maybe it'll help someone else out by posting this in case they have the same problem and wonder what the heck is going on like I did.

 

[magnaflowstang]

Are your cars chirping second? I have read on the board that people have the same mods as me and our chirping second gear. What are your shift points set at with the diablo and what are your rev limiters at?

 

[YtnGT]

RedMustang,
Dude something seems wrong with your last post. If the 1-2 shift point is set at 5250rpm in the predator the actual shift should occur several hundred rpms later. There is a time dalay between the ecc commanding a shift and the actual shift occuring. Shift solenoids have to magnetize and move a spool the hydraulic fluid has to fill the 1-2 accumulator and exert pressure on the clutch piston. All that takes time.

At 5250rpm shift point the actual shift should occur at approximatly 5550rpm not 6100rpm. Check you program or set all parameters back to default. You do not want to hit the rev limiter. It cuts fuel to the cylinders and an extremly lean condition occurs. I guess it is better to (briefly) go lean rather than sling a rod through the block. I have raised the rev limiter to 6200rpm that should be the limit.

Moral of the story... A well tuned auto car should not hit the rev limiter. Unless you are in gravel or really loose traction at WOT.

 

[Red03Mustang]

Thanks for the tips. Yeah, my car was acting really weird, so I reset to the factory defaults just to be safe, then ended up leaving the shift points alone. My car does what I want it to at the factory designated points.

I adjusted my WOT shift firmness to 150 for 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4. I also set the torque mod for each gear up to 100.

I have a completely stock transmission. I don't get on my car much. It's more of an every now and then thing. Should I worry about these settings hurting my transmission at all? The car has GREAT power with these settings turned on. I chirped second so hard on my last test run that the car's rear end squirreled around on me. It sure didn't do THAT when it was stock! So needless to say I'd like to keep these settings. Any chance I could be hurting the car with these settings?

 

[YtnGT]

Yea with a stock trans the factory shift points should be perfect for the street. The only reason I modified mine is because of the J-Mod shift kit. The 1-2 accumulator fills much faster therefore the shift is completed sooner and at a lower rpm than stock. So I used the predator to increase the shift point slightly.

I also have the torque modulation on 100% (off) for 1-2 & 2-3. The following is my guess as to what torque modulation does... From the factory shifts are mushy and slow the way most people like them. God forbid that when your wife floors the mustang to pass someone the 1-2 shift occurs and the rear end starts sliding sideways (I like that ) and she almost wrecks your car. So ford included a neat feature that reduces timing advance and other things during the shift. Since the factory shift takes a little while (aka soft) that means that there is a clutch (pack) that is slipping in the trans. So during a (factory) shift there is a slipping clutch and reduced engine power. That is perfect for most people.

Note: I am not a drivetrain engineer by any means but increasing the line pressure for WOT shifts should be OK. The higher the line pressure the quicker the accumulator will fill and engage the clutch (aka quicker shifts).

Be aware that hard shifts put more strain on the drivetrain components. That is the standard warning... But I will guarante you that my shifts are more brutal with the J-Mod and I have been abusing my car for 36K miles with no drivetrain failures. I did not buy a mustang to baby it, I bought it to abuse it - I mean enjoy it...

 

[Red03Mustang]

What about adjusting the firmness of the shifts at WOT along with upping the torque modulation to 100%? That's what I'm wondering about. Currently I have the firmness set on 150. Should I back it off to be safe, or do you think this is probably a safe setting?

 

[Red03Mustang]

Shift points?

If I wanted to set my shift points to 5000, is there any other settings I would need to change? I tried setting my shift points lower, but for some reason the car jumped high in RPM's before it hit shifted into the next gear. I think I posted about this more towards the top of this thread.

So if I set my points to 5000, is there anything else I need to adjust as well?

 

[propellerhead]

TTT

What setting did you settle on, Red03Mustang?