Prep for Stering Rack replacement

[helty]

So I just ordered a new rack and pinion, should be here in time for the weekend. I'm also going to be replacing my ball joints, A-arm bushings and steering rack bushings while I'm in there. Just wanted to make sure all my ducks are in a row before I start tearing everything apart.

Here's what I have ordered:

1 steering rack w/inner tie rods

2 outer tie rod ends

2 ball joints

2 sets of front control (a-arm) bushings

1 set of steering rack bushings

2 cases of beer

1 phone # for the local pizza delivery place

And I'm about to head to the auto store and order those teflon seals for the P/S lines. Anyone have the part #? And of course I'll pick up a few bottles of Mercon V and some PB Blaster.

Anything else I might be missing? Anything else I should replace while I have everything torn apart? Any special tools? I have all the basics, just hate when I'm balls deep in a job and have to clean up and run to the parts store just to pick up a tool.

Thanks

 

[helty]

Yeah, I meant to put this in tech.

TIM! Meatloaf! F***!!!!

 

[patman0911]

Might as well replace the sway-bar bushings too while you're at it.

You'll want a good selection of big metric sockets and a big breaker bar. In addition to the usual 8-15mm, I think I used 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 26 & 27mm sockets. A deepwell 15, 18 and 24mm will make things easier. The nut on the factory balljoint was 24mm but the new one was 27mm - yours may be different.

You can rent a tool from you chain parts store to do the ball joints but you're probably gonna want to take the a-arms somewhere to have the new bushings pressed in if they're the full bushings with new shells. Do the balljoints while the arms are still in the car - getting the necessary leverage when they're out of the car is a lot harder. You can remove the old bushings yourself if it'll save you some money - I popped the rubber part out with a torch and then took a hacksaw to the shells.

 

[helty]

Took the swaybar out a long time ago, so those bushings aren't in play.

I have a lot of sockets, not sure if I have any 24 or 27mm, but if need be I can make a run to the auto parts store down the road.

I was gonna yank the A-arms off and have one of my friends run it down the road to the auto shop and have them do the bushings and maybe ball joints while I'm working on the steering rack.

Thanks for the advice

 

[Rickyll7]

What brand rack did you order? I bought an AGR rack and it has too much lash and feels sloppy. I called them about it asking if the racks were all new parts as they suggested and they just danced around the subject and basicaly told me that the racks are "rebuilt for racing use". They told me I could try to adjust the lash, but that they are pre-adjusted during assembly at the factory. I went in there to adjust it and it wouldn't get any tighter without binding the rack against the case. I think the teeth are just worn out because they didn't use new parts.

I have all the basics, just hate when I'm balls deep in a job and have to clean up and run to the parts store just to pick up a tool.

Wait a minute... you clean up before you go to the parts store?

 

[helty]

What brand rack did you order? I bought an AGR rack and it has too much lash and feels sloppy. I called them about it asking if the racks were all new parts as they suggested and they just danced around the subject and basicaly told me that the racks are "rebuilt for racing use". They told me I could try to adjust the lash, but that they are pre-adjusted during assembly at the factory. I went in there to adjust it and it wouldn't get any tighter without binding the rack against the case. I think the teeth are just worn out because they didn't use new parts.



Wait a minute... you clean up before you go to the parts store?

I wash my hands so I dont get grease and dirt all over my other whip.

I know its def. a re-manufactured rack. Cardone I believe is the maker. It comes with a 3-year/36,000 mile warranty so if there's anything I don't like about it....I'll ram-rod a screwdriver inside the housing and send that mother back.

 

[Rickyll7]

I wash my hands so I dont get grease and dirt all over my other whip.

That's why I use nitrile gloves.

I know its def. a re-manufactured rack. Cardone I believe is the maker. It comes with a 3-year/36,000 mile warranty so if there's anything I don't like about it....I'll ram-rod a screwdriver inside the housing and send that mother back.

Maybe I should try that with my steering rack.

I heard that the 03/04 Cobra racks don't have as much of a problem with the lash FWIW.

Oh, you drive around without a front swaybar? How is that working out?

As for your original question... sounds like you have a nice list going there. I think wmburns has a nice write-up for the rack replacement and bleeding the system, but I can't remember where he posted it. It may have been over on modular fords. Maybe shoot him a PM .

Definetely soak things in PB blaster the night before.


Good luck!

 

[helty]

Oh, you drive around without a front swaybar? How is that working out?


Good luck!

I took it out about 4 years ago to get better weight transfer at the track, and just never reinstalled it. Differences are slightly noticeable. More body roll, front end rises up a bit more and the rear squats a bit more....just like they said. If you're not a 1/4 mile junkie I'd keep it in there, especially if its your DD.

But the car hasn't been daily driven for a while now. That's actually why I'm getting all this together. Long story short I picked up a new DD, the mustang fell into disrepair, and I want to fix her up and enjoy her again.