Preparing for Dynojet Tuning

I'll be taking my car to a dyno tuesday. He will tune the carb and other things, but of course it is an hourly charge; therefore I want to do what I can before I take it to him.

First off, this is pretty much the first time I've been able to run the car and drive it for more than a couple minutes since I got the cam and also headwork. I had added an open spacer when I did this, but I seem to have lost some bottom in and not gained anything else, could the spacer be to blame? or is it the carb?

Next, I have the timing set around 14*-16*, does that sound correct for my cam and setup?

The carb, when I turn the idle mixture adjustment screws all the way in, the engine dies; does this mean my jets are okay? I always thought this carb was going to need to be jetted down.

Lastly, what other things can I do to get the general tuning good so that the dyno guy doesn't have the car all day?

Thanks a lot! I can't wait 'til tuesday :banana:
 
Jetting has nothing to do with the idle mixture scews, does the dyno have a wideband O2 sensor? That will make it easier to tune the jetting as well as the power valve and acc. pump. Even if you don't change them on the dyno, you'll know what you need to change at home. The open spacer will give you more top end, a 4-hole will give you more low end. You might get a 4-hole before you go to the dyno and swap them out, doesnt take long to do. Then you'll know which works better for your combo..

:nice:
 
Some advice......you pay by the hour on chassis dyno (approx. $80 - $100/hr) so it is better to have the car in tune before you go to save $$$$. If are wanting to know how much rear HP/TQ your car is putting out, get the bugs worked out before you go. Some dyno operators are just that.....they operate the dyno only and are not good troubleshooters or only know chevy's and not Fords. Unless you are paying for the whole day, then I would take someone that knows how to troubleshoot and tune if you do not.