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Pro-M question- install problem! *pics*

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1992blkGT
  • Start date Start date Mar 12, 2004
1

1992blkGT

New Member
Mar 28, 2003
523
0
0
Beaverton, OR
Mar 12, 2004
#1
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #1
Well I just got my 80mm Pro-M in the mail. I've been running a 73mm C&L for the last couple weeks, and today I went to try to install the Pro-M and noticed some problems. I've been using a Mac fenderwell cold air intake for awhile and the Pro-M comes with a filter attached to it, here's a pic:



So obviously I'm going to have to use my stock rubber intake hose, luckily I saved it. Then I noticed how much larger the Pro-M outlet is compared to the stock rubber hose. Here's a pic:



There is no way the rubber hose will fit around the MAF. Anyone have any ideas? Is this Pro-M designed for use with a power pipe? I appreciate any help! Thanks!
 

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88stangmangt

Active Member
Nov 25, 2003
2,332
1
48
Stafford,VA
Mar 12, 2004
#2
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #2
ya you need a engine bay 4" or so power pipe (dont quote me on that)
 
1

1992blkGT

New Member
Mar 28, 2003
523
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0
Beaverton, OR
Mar 12, 2004
#3
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #3
88stangmangt said:
ya you need a engine bay 4" or so power pipe (dont quote me on that)
Click to expand...

Thanks! Does anyone else have a suggestion?
 

IndyBlk5.0

New Member
Nov 24, 2003
1,122
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0
New Whiteland, IN
Mar 12, 2004
#4
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #4
yeah, anderson ford carries a N/A powerpipe for those Pro-M's, they actually make power too unlike CAI's...
 
1

1992blkGT

New Member
Mar 28, 2003
523
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0
Beaverton, OR
Mar 12, 2004
#5
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #5
IndyBlk5.0 said:
yeah, anderson ford carries a N/A powerpipe for those Pro-M's, they actually make power too unlike CAI's...
Click to expand...

Yea I was looking at those. Too bad they are like $230. That is a ripoff for a 16" piece of steel with two rubber grommets. Maybe I'll go to Home Depot and see if I can make my own out of plastic, or at least something for the time being until I can afford a powerpipe. Thanks for the help!
 

88stangmangt

Active Member
Nov 25, 2003
2,332
1
48
Stafford,VA
Mar 12, 2004
#6
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #6
lol i used the make shift homedepot design for my 1995 v6 i had.
 

BlackFox5.0

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
3,514
1
0
Massachusetts
Mar 12, 2004
#7
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #7
I know I'm not helping, but why do you need such a big MAF, when your TB is only 75mm? 73mm should be more than enough for what I see in your sig.

On a side note, I know Home Depot sells reducers, you could get a 4" to 3" to use till you get a power pipe or something that will work...
 
1

1992blkGT

New Member
Mar 28, 2003
523
0
0
Beaverton, OR
Mar 12, 2004
#8
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #8
BlackFox5.0 said:
I know I'm not helping, but why do you need such a big MAF, when your TB is only 75mm? 73mm should be more than enough for what I see in your sig.

On a side note, I know Home Depot sells reducers, you could get a 4" to 3" to use till you get a power pipe or something that will work...
Click to expand...

It's better to have a bigger MAF than throttle body. Aside from that, Pro-M's are supposed to be better than C&L meters. Ed Curtis suggested an 80mm mass air meter and a 75mm throttle body, so thats what I'm going with. I really don't feel like arguing over this though. Thanks for the help!
 

BlackFox5.0

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
3,514
1
0
Massachusetts
Mar 12, 2004
#9
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #9
I missed the fact that you had a C&L And thanks for clearing up the situation.
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Mar 12, 2004
#10
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #10
The real problem is that with that filter mounted under the hood, it's pulling heated under-hood air into the engine. For every 10F of temp. increase your engine makes anywhere from 1/2 to 1% less hp. Put that in perspective on a day when it's 50F outside, and the air under your hood is 150F (it's at least that coming off the radiator), that's a 5%-10% reduction in power. While you're solving your plumbing problem, get that filter mounted in a way where it's pulling air from the fenderwell or from behind the grill/headlights. If you're gonna do it yourself, head over to the Depot as suggested, and see what they have that you can coble together and hook things up. I've also found that large truck parts places (as in Interntional, Mack, Volvo, etc.) carry a selection of large ducting and clamps for the large air inlet systems on the big diesels. And I found 3.5" reinforced rubber hose (won't collapse) and clamps at NAPA.
 
1

1992blkGT

New Member
Mar 28, 2003
523
0
0
Beaverton, OR
Mar 12, 2004
#11
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #11
Michael Yount said:
The real problem is that with that filter mounted under the hood, it's pulling heated under-hood air into the engine. For every 10F of temp. increase your engine makes anywhere from 1/2 to 1% less hp. Put that in perspective on a day when it's 50F outside, and the air under your hood is 150F (it's at least that coming off the radiator), that's a 5%-10% reduction in power. While you're solving your plumbing problem, get that filter mounted in a way where it's pulling air from the fenderwell or from behind the grill/headlights. If you're gonna do it yourself, head over to the Depot as suggested, and see what they have that you can coble together and hook things up. I've also found that large truck parts places (as in Interntional, Mack, Volvo, etc.) carry a selection of large ducting and clamps for the large air inlet systems on the big diesels. And I found 3.5" reinforced rubber hose (won't collapse) and clamps at NAPA.
Click to expand...

Yea I really don't like having to remove my fenderwell CAI, but I like your idea. I'm going to head over to Home Depot tomorrow and see what they have. If nothing else, I will just get what I need to mount it, but if I can make my own powerpipe to put the MAF in the fenderwell, I will try. I will eventually save up for a power pipe, but in the meantime, I want to mount my new MAF! Thanks for your help!
 
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