We have a 2000 Mustang that has a pro charger on it. The customer has no info on it, and it will not start, If we remove a chip that is in the pcm. it will start. This is the info on back of the chip EEC-V Autologic 2001 Chip. If we pull the chip out of the PCM it will start. Put it back in and the theft light flashes and it won't start. Any info on this issue is helpful, as we are at a loss as to how to proceed?
Pro tuner super charge issues and no start.
- Thread starter Jeff Van Buskirk
- Start date
First step: Pull the PCM, clean the J3 port. Use a fiberglass pen or fine scotch-brite to gently polish the copper contacts until shiny. Make sure no residue is left. Reseat the chip firmly. Try again.
If still no start with the chip: The tune on that chip is likely toast, or the PATS strategy isn’t matching the car.
Safe route: Time to retire the Autologic. Have a shop with SCT, Moates, or HP Tuners equipment flash the PCM with a new tune directly. That way you can keep PATS functional or have it disabled properly.
Important: Do not run the car under boost on the stock tune (chip removed). It’ll start and idle, but fuel and timing will be way off once you get into boost.
That Autologic chip is almost certainly the issue. Even if you get it to boot again by cleaning contacts, it’s unsupported hardware. The long-term fix is a modern flash tune directly into the PCM.
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Another method to try:
If the chip is corrupt or not seated well, the ECU may not enter self-test mode at all, or it may throw nonsense codes.
If you can pull codes but they’re unrelated or make no sense, that’s a sign the chip is interfering with the processor.
If PATS is unhappy (flashing theft light), you may see codes related to theft disable, key mismatch, or module communication errors.
The ECU is running its base Ford calibration. You should be able to get normal KOEO codes.
If you only get clean, consistent results with the chip out, that’s more evidence the chip is the culprit (dirty J3 port, corrupt tune, or both).
You might see codes for things that the procharger kit/tune was meant to mask or adjust for (like MAF curve mismatch, injectors not scaled, etc.), which is useful info — it reminds you the car is not safe to run boosted on the stock map.
If the ECU self-test works fine without the chip but fails with it: the chip or its seating is bad.
If the ECU won’t enter self-test at all with the chip: chip is totally corrupt or blocking comms.
If PATS codes only appear with the chip installed: that’s a clear indicator the chip’s tune didn’t handle theft correctly.
If still no start with the chip: The tune on that chip is likely toast, or the PATS strategy isn’t matching the car.
Safe route: Time to retire the Autologic. Have a shop with SCT, Moates, or HP Tuners equipment flash the PCM with a new tune directly. That way you can keep PATS functional or have it disabled properly.
Important: Do not run the car under boost on the stock tune (chip removed). It’ll start and idle, but fuel and timing will be way off once you get into boost.
That Autologic chip is almost certainly the issue. Even if you get it to boot again by cleaning contacts, it’s unsupported hardware. The long-term fix is a modern flash tune directly into the PCM.
------------------------------------------------
Another method to try:
Pull KOEO codes With the chip installed
If the chip is corrupt or not seated well, the ECU may not enter self-test mode at all, or it may throw nonsense codes.
If you can pull codes but they’re unrelated or make no sense, that’s a sign the chip is interfering with the processor.
If PATS is unhappy (flashing theft light), you may see codes related to theft disable, key mismatch, or module communication errors.
Pull KOEO Without the chip installed
The ECU is running its base Ford calibration. You should be able to get normal KOEO codes.
If you only get clean, consistent results with the chip out, that’s more evidence the chip is the culprit (dirty J3 port, corrupt tune, or both).
You might see codes for things that the procharger kit/tune was meant to mask or adjust for (like MAF curve mismatch, injectors not scaled, etc.), which is useful info — it reminds you the car is not safe to run boosted on the stock map.
What it will tell you
If the ECU self-test works fine without the chip but fails with it: the chip or its seating is bad.
If the ECU won’t enter self-test at all with the chip: chip is totally corrupt or blocking comms.
If PATS codes only appear with the chip installed: that’s a clear indicator the chip’s tune didn’t handle theft correctly.
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