Problem Of The Week! Boo

squeak93 · Sep 20, 2013

Jarvis said:
One problem is I'm still working on figuring out which ones are vacuum lines. Only had about 10 minutes before it got too dark. Doesn't help that whoever had the car before me had an IQ of about 19.

The vac lines are all the rubber hoses that don't carry coolant.

Seriously thought, look at the driver side firewall just left of the brake booster, you will see a "tree" with 4 or 5 lines coming off of it. one goes to the brake booster (if you don't know what that is I think this is all pointless), another to the intake, on to hvac crap etc etc. Follow all of those lines and inspect EVERY one of them. I would guess your evap canister/solenoid lines are the most degraded (most cars I find those are the worst). The charcoal/evap canister is on the pass side frame rail down by the air pump (just beside radiator but on the actual rail...hope that makes sense.

You have a lot of vac lines that come off the underside of the intake. They go to the pcv, fuel regulator and emissions crap. Check all of those too. Some of them will be plastic and very brittle.

Go to your local parts store and buy 10-20 foot of 1/4 inch vac hose (should work, can't remember as I've not jacked with stock lines in a long time) and some 3/8 vac line to redo all that you see.

Jarvis · Sep 20, 2013

squeak93 said:
The vac lines are all the rubber hoses that don't carry coolant.

Seriously thought, look at the driver side firewall just left of the brake booster, you will see a "tree" with 4 or 5 lines coming off of it. one goes to the brake booster (if you don't know what that is I think this is all pointless), another to the intake, on to hvac crap etc etc. Follow all of those lines and inspect EVERY one of them. I would guess your evap canister/solenoid lines are the most degraded (most cars I find those are the worst). The charcoal/evap canister is on the pass side frame rail down by the air pump (just beside radiator but on the actual rail...hope that makes sense.

You have a lot of vac lines that come off the underside of the intake. They go to the pcv, fuel regulator and emissions crap. Check all of those too. Some of them will be plastic and very brittle.

Go to your local parts store and buy 10-20 foot of 1/4 inch vac hose (should work, can't remember as I've not jacked with stock lines in a long time) and some 3/8 vac line to redo all that you see.

I just ordered a FPR early this morning. Should i try and cancel my order and try the vacuum hose route first?

mikestang63 · Sep 20, 2013

Jarvis said:
I just ordered a FPR early this morning. Should i try and cancel my order and try the vacuum hose route first?

Do you need a new FPR? Did you test it like instructed? If it holds vacuum then no need for a new one. Hook up a vacuum guage to it and see if it draws vacuum or not.

Grabbin' Asphalt · Sep 20, 2013

Jarvis said:
Definitely fuel smell in the line coming off of the fuel regulator. Which as you said means a ruptured diaphragm?

Yup you need a NEW one!!!

squeak93 · Sep 20, 2013

If the above is true then a regulator is definitely needed. That with new vac lines (or at least replace the old/broken ones) should solve your issue.

Jarvis · Sep 20, 2013

Grabbin' Asphalt said:
Yup you need a NEW one!!!

Sweet, thanks for the help. Picking it up at the Summit store up near Atlanta tonight!!

squeak93 said:
If the above is true then a regulator is definitely needed. That with new vac lines (or at least replace the old/broken ones) should solve your issue.

Anyone have any tips for installation of the FPR once I get it?
Thanks all for the help so far. You're all awesome

mikestang63 · Sep 20, 2013

Jarvis said:
Sweet, thanks for the help. Picking it up at the Summit store up near Atlanta tonight!!

Anyone have any tips for installation of the FPR once I get it?
Thanks all for the help so far. You're all awesome

Let the car sit for a while if you can so the fuel pressure is low. With the car off- release the pressure from the fuel rail at the shrader valve with a small screwdriver- like taking air out of a tire.. place a rag over the end to catch any gas. Remove the vacuum hose and gauge hose from the FPR. The FPR is secured by three 5/32 allen head screws from below- used an allen head socket or you will be there all day with an allen wrench. The FPR will just pull off. Lube the O ring on the new FPR with a little motor oil and reinstall the FPR. Use some blue loctite on the threads of the three allen head bolts and tighten them up snug and then a little more- do not overtighten. Reattach the gauge hose but not the vacuum hose for now. Turn the key on but do not start. The fuel pump will prime and check for leaks and see that the fuel pressure is. If no leaks and you have pressure start the car. Adjust the fuel pressure to 39 with the hose off. Reattach the vacuum hose. It will drop to around 34 ish?

Test drive and enjoy.

squeak93 · Sep 20, 2013

mikestang63 said:
Let the car sit for a while if you can so the fuel pressure is low. With the car off- release the pressure from the fuel rail at the shrader valve with a small screwdriver- like taking air out of a tire.. place a rag over the end to catch any gas. Remove the vacuum hose and gauge hose from the FPR. The FPR is secured by three 5/32 allen head screws from below- used an allen head socket or you will be there all day with an allen wrench. The FPR will just pull off. Lube the O ring on the new FPR with a little motor oil and reinstall the FPR. Use some blue loctite on the threads of the three allen head bolts and tighten them up snug and then a little more- do not overtighten. Reattach the gauge hose but not the vacuum hose for now. Turn the key on but do not start. The fuel pump will prime and check for leaks and see that the fuel pressure is. If no leaks and you have pressure start the car. Adjust the fuel pressure to 39 with the hose off. Reattach the vacuum hose. It will drop to around 34 ish?

Test drive and enjoy.

Winner winner chicken Dinner. I had to actually loosen the rail from the intake to get my stocker off. It just made it easier with my fat fingers to remove and reinstall. There are two bolts on each side of the intake holding the rail down, you should be able to just loosen the pass side bolts and move the rail enough to make the fpr easier.

Grabbin' Asphalt · Sep 20, 2013

you can just pop off the throttle linkage with a screwdriver and pop the ball out of the hole, then remove the two bolts that hold the throttle linkage to the throttle body. go get a magnetic stick slide pen that extends from the auto parts store. place long ways with the fuel rail on the intake below the fp regulator to reach it or go from driver side angled over top the intake to below the the fp regulator. keep your old allen bolts as extra incase one drops too far away from the magnectic pen stick. only will really need it for the back allen bolt. use the stick to retrieve it if you drop it. you'll drop it a few times but you might have to try different angles with your hands to reach the back bolt, its a pain but you can do it, saves taking off the intake and vaccum lines

Grabbin' Asphalt · Sep 20, 2013

did mine personally that way you'll have to use your fingers to twist it to grab barely then use the allen wrench to tighten.

Jarvis · Sep 21, 2013

squeak93 said:
Winner winner chicken Dinner. I had to actually loosen the rail from the intake to get my stocker off. It just made it easier with my fat fingers to remove and reinstall. There are two bolts on each side of the intake holding the rail down, you should be able to just loosen the pass side bolts and move the rail enough to make the fpr easier.

Grabbin' Asphalt said:
you can just pop off the throttle linkage with a screwdriver and pop the ball out of the hole, then remove the two bolts that hold the throttle linkage to the throttle body. go get a magnetic stick slide pen that extends from the auto parts store. place long ways with the fuel rail on the intake below the fp regulator to reach it or go from driver side angled over top the intake to below the the fp regulator. keep your old allen bolts as extra incase one drops too far away from the magnectic pen stick. only will really need it for the back allen bolt. use the stick to retrieve it if you drop it. you'll drop it a few times but you might have to try different angles with your hands to reach the back bolt, its a pain but you can do it, saves taking off the intake and vaccum lines

This is a pain in the ass lol. The only real problem is the wires that plug into the injectors. They run so closely under that i can't get anything under the FPR, I got the front one off. The side and back one are impossible, I was working on unplugging the injectors so i could pull those wires out. Those little clips are rough though, then it started raining. So on hold for now. Thanks for the help.

I also got a pack of vacuum nubs and changed the ones i could find. The vacuum hoses appear to be in good order, seem to have been changed before. I'm going to double check them again of course.

Jarvis · Sep 21, 2013

Also their isn't a place on the current fpr for the gauge. So I have no clue where it's currently plugged in to.

Grabbin' Asphalt · Sep 21, 2013

Go over the top of intake and under the fp to where the allen bolts would fall. just rest in on the base of the intake, just use it when you drop the allen bolt. can also use it to pick up the all wrench if you drop it. You got it man come on . Btw no need to undo anything else

Grabbin' Asphalt · Sep 21, 2013

shrader valve just behind alterntor on fuel line

mikestang63 · Sep 21, 2013

Put a dab of grease on the allen wrench socket when you remove and install the little bolts. The grease will hold the bolt on the socket so if you tip the socket, the bolt should not fall off. Old time trick I've used for years.

Grabbin' Asphalt · Sep 21, 2013

you may meed a certain coupler fitting to attatch it to the schrader valve

squeak93 · Sep 23, 2013

Grabbin' Asphalt said:
you may meed a certain coupler fitting to attatch it to the schrader valve

You do, IIRC its a 1/16 to a 1/8 adapter. 14.99, pricey little sucker. You can find them on any of the major mustang vendor sites (not sure who is/isn't a sponsor so I won't post a link).

Jarvis · Sep 29, 2013

Grabbin' Asphalt said:
Go over the top of intake and under the fp to where the allen bolts would fall. just rest in on the base of the intake, just use it when you drop the allen bolt. can also use it to pick up the all wrench if you drop it. You got it man come on . Btw no need to undo anything else

Well finally got the bugger on. When i turn it too ACC the gauge goes to high 30's then drops, and drops and drops all the way to zero.(very slowly, over 30-40seconds) Maybe i missed something on the vacuum lines? Not tight enough? FPR is flush against the fuel rail(screws tight), o-ring and gasket were in place.

As for the installation it took way longer than it should have. I unhooked the number 4 injector and any other wires in the area and slide them up above the FPR. Gave me just enough room, didn't really wanna undo the throttle linkage or take off the intake. Anyway the screws off of the old FPR didn't fit my new one. The were way too big. So I went to Home Depot and rummaged through the drawers until i found one that fit. Got them home and couldn't get them to thread for the life of me. I got the back one(which should have been the hardest to thread) but i just couldn't get the other two to catch worked on it for a couple hours until I was red in the face and throwing allen wrenches across the parking lot. So finally I took it back off and realized that the two were the wrong size(but the package was right) So back to home depot got the right screws, fit like a glove. Woo!

Thanks all for the all of the help!

Grabbin' Asphalt · Sep 29, 2013

Jarvis said:
Well finally got the bugger on. When i turn it too ACC the gauge goes to high 30's then drops, and drops and drops all the way to zero.(very slowly, over 30-40seconds) Maybe i missed something on the vacuum lines? Not tight enough? FPR is flush against the fuel rail(screws tight), o-ring and gasket were in place.

As for the installation it took way longer than it should have. I unhooked the number 4 injector and any other wires in the area and slide them up above the FPR. Gave me just enough room, didn't really wanna undo the throttle linkage or take off the intake. Anyway the screws off of the old FPR didn't fit my new one. The were way too big. So I went to Home Depot and rummaged through the drawers until i found one that fit. Got them home and couldn't get them to thread for the life of me. I got the back one(which should have been the hardest to thread) but i just couldn't get the other two to catch worked on it for a couple hours until I was red in the face and throwing allen wrenches across the parking lot. So finally I took it back off and realized that the two were the wrong size(but the package was right) So back to home depot got the right screws, fit like a glove. Woo!

Thanks all for the all of the help!

The throttle linkage is very easy, long time ago I was nervous to mess with it too. But all it is, is a ball on the throttle body that snaps into a hole. Quick screwdriver flick downward angled pops it off easy, then the two bolts that remove the throttle plate bracket. It makes getting to the underside of the FP regulator much, much easier. Glad you finally got it though. As far as sustained fuel pressure, you need to start it up and get it warm and then shut it off and time the leak down time. If it fully leaks down in like 2min-10min you got a faulty injector, return valve or fuel/vacuum leak of some sort. It should take an hour or so to fully leak down.

Jarvis · Sep 30, 2013

Grabbin' Asphalt said:
The throttle linkage is very easy, long time ago I was nervous to mess with it too. But all it is, is a ball on the throttle body that snaps into a hole. Quick screwdriver flick downward angled pops it off easy, then the two bolts that remove the throttle plate bracket. It makes getting to the underside of the FP regulator much, much easier. Glad you finally got it though. As far as sustained fuel pressure, you need to start it up and get it warm and then shut it off and time the leak down time. If it fully leaks down in like 2min-10min you got a faulty injector, return valve or fuel/vacuum leak of some sort. It should take an hour or so to fully leak down.

Ok well started it up, got the running pressure to 39. It idle's smooth as a baby's bottom(Loads better than before). I have't taken it out yet though. When I click to ACC ( 15mins after running for 5 minutes) The fuel pressure hops to 40, then drops just like before. As soon as i start it, it goes to 39 and stays. Good? Bad? Ugly?

Problem Of The Week! Boo

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