PROBLEM TUNING S TRIM

ShortThrow50 · Jul 6, 2008

mkhalil83 said:
i thought when they tune your car with a chip they dont deal with timing but fuel curve. i think its a little more than just timing. i need to get my car tuned at this local shop and they want to charge me 650 is that to much

false and yes 650 is a bit steep

mkhalil83 · Jul 6, 2008

im sorry i wrote that wrong, i ment doesnt the chip effect timing and also fuel?

Black1987Stang · Jul 7, 2008

The chip is the heart of the tune, it controls EVERYTHING, fuel, spark, idle, 02 sensor usage or not, spark retards for temperature, rpm, load etc.....that's basically what the dyno tune is, they run it on the dyno, look at the wideband readings, and adjust everything through the chip to get it where it should be

mkhalil83 · Jul 7, 2008

thats what i thought, i figured it wouldent be all that money just to adjust timing

CONCRETEWARFARE · Jul 7, 2008

Well I took it out for a spin today. I put the boost retard to 2 and a half. Timing was at 8. The fuel pressure is 39 psi. The car bogged and ran really rich. When I went to go full throttle it bogged and there was a huge cloud of exhaust behind me. Should I advance the timing?

2002BLGT · Jul 7, 2008

CONCRETEWARFARE said:
Hey guys, I installed an s trim on my car and callled quite a few places to get the car tuned and they all say the same thing to me, they say I need the msd 6btm and the fmu. I was under the impression that if you have the right injectors the fmu was not needed. I also thought that if the car was tuned right then you didnt need the boost retard. How is everyone on here getting their car tuned without this stuff?

so what I get from your sig is you are running 42 lbs injectors without a chip ? you show a MAF in your sig , is it one that is calibrated (term used loosely) to the 42s ?

CONCRETEWARFARE · Jul 8, 2008

yeah the meter is calibrated for the injectors. Pro-m 80mm.

90 lx convert · Jul 8, 2008

39 psi with vacuum plugged or connected? If it's with it connected you've got some tuning room. I wouldn't add any timing just yet. Take a couple pounds of fuel out at a time. The idea is to sneak up on the tune.Some suggestions, I know they're not cheap but a wide band AF meter would help you nail your air fuel. The ignition is a good choice. One degree per pound is a good starting point. Colder plugs gapped at 35 should be part of this too. If you even think you hear it ping get out of it. My stock block is laying in my garage in two pieces because of a tune I leaned on too hard. Mike

CONCRETEWARFARE · Jul 8, 2008

Yeah I set the timing to 10 degrees and the fuel pressure to 39 with the line capped. I put the boost retard to 1.5 and it felt like a whole new car. Still its not even close to being perfect but its a start.

CONCRETEWARFARE · Jul 10, 2008

I think im just going to get a tweecer instead of going to a tuner. This way I can just make the changes as I upgrade instead of running back and forth to the shop.

ShortThrow50 · Jul 10, 2008

CONCRETEWARFARE said:
I think im just going to get a tweecer instead of going to a tuner. This way I can just make the changes as I upgrade instead of running back and forth to the shop.

tweecer is going to be more expensive than a tune and its something that takes a long time to learn what you are doing. You can also risk doing something with it that will crew something up. You should just find another tuner in your area, pay the 400 and be done

millhouse · Jul 10, 2008

ShortThrow50 said:
tweecer is going to be more expensive than a tune and its something that takes a long time to learn what you are doing. You can also risk doing something with it that will crew something up. You should just find another tuner in your area, pay the 400 and be done

+1

Don’t forget the cost of a wideband (a necessity) to do the tuning yourself. You also will have no need for the BTM as the tweecer will be able to take control of the timing as well.

Don’t get me wrong….there is nothing wrong with wanting to tune yourself. It’s not cut an dry however…and it will be a continuous effort on your behalf for quite a while to get everything perfect.

In the end…the quickest, most reliable method is just to get a custom dyno tune done and forget about it.

CONCRETEWARFARE · Jul 10, 2008

yeah I hear you guys about getting it done and forgetting about it. My thinking was that if I ever do any upgrades ( meth injection) etc, I would have to go back to the tuner and respend the money. This would be a one time fee kind of thing.

ShortThrow50 · Jul 10, 2008

CONCRETEWARFARE said:
yeah I hear you guys about getting it done and forgetting about it. My thinking was that if I ever do any upgrades ( meth injection) etc, I would have to go back to the tuner and respend the money. This would be a one time fee kind of thing.

not tryin to steer you away from the tweecer bud. i would like to learn the tweecer as well but that is something you should do after you have the car in a good condition to run in the first place so itsnot sitting for a long time till you learn. Its not one of those things that you just open up the box and plug a nd play. It is a tool tthat a few guys use on here yeah but it i also a tool that some tuners use at dyno shops. Get te car running first, buy the btm for 300 or so bucks and run the car or skip the btm and get a dyno tune, then go get the tweecer later. Just tryin to save you alot of down time and frustration and possible a messed up running car

CONCRETEWARFARE · Jul 12, 2008

Yeah I appreciate the heads up. I actually do have the car running now. Still needs some tweaking but it runs and seems like its got some pretty decent power waiting to be unleashed.

PROBLEM TUNING S TRIM

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