Problems encountered while attempting to break-in a new cam

jeffnoel · Aug 10, 2007

I tried starting the Mustang after the winter mods and it won't start. I have gas, 5 gallons added to the recently cleaned and sealed gas tank. Fuel filers are clean and I have spark, I checked by pulling the #1 plug and grounding it to verify spark at the plug. I prefilled the fuel bowls in the Holley carb by pouring gas into the bowl vents. My problem I think is I have a bad fuel pump. I have a gauge at the carb and it never shows any pressure building when cranking. I pulled the line from the pump to the carb and it was dry, so I'm thinking the pump isn't working.

Any ideas, I did prelube the engine with a drill and got 50 psi at the gauge. But, I'm afraid if I keep cranking it and it doesn't start I'm gonna ruin the new cam.

Thanks for any suggestions or help.

mrmustangman357 · Aug 10, 2007

If you have the floats filled, it should fire then quit once the floats run dry. Try spraying a little starting fluid and see if it fires then quits. Otherwise, your distributor might be 180 degrees out or out of timing. Something to consider

jeffnoel · Aug 10, 2007

I thought about being 180 and spun the distibutor and when I did it backfired so I put it back were it was.

D.Hearne · Aug 10, 2007

You've likely got the timing too far off to get it to fire up. Line up the timing pointer to the marks on the balancer, then loosen the distributor hold down clamp. With the key on, and the #1 plug pulled and grounded (like you did before) slowly rotate the distributor back and forth and watch for the spark. When it sparks, the timing will be dead on where you have the pointer lined up to the balancer mark. It should start immediately after you replace the #1 plug and try again. Set the timing to about 10* BTDC to start and run in the cam with. Also make sure the idle speed screw is set far enough to allow the engine to run cold till it warms.

jeffnoel · Aug 10, 2007

That's kinda what I'm thinking. Even though I'm pretty sure I've got a bad pump (new Holley 80 GPH pump should be here tomorrow) I thought it would have fired since the fuel bowls were filled and even a little gas shot into the throttle bores as a last ditch attempt.

Thanks for the timing tip D.Hearne. I have an MSD 6A ignition box that was working before I swapped cams will trying to time the motor like you describe have any ill effects on my MSD box?

Any others???

D.Hearne · Aug 10, 2007

80 GPH ? What are you trying to feed? I run a 30 GPH pump on a 331 with 3 Holley 2 bbls, and it's plenty.

jeffnoel · Aug 11, 2007

80 GPH is the lowest flow mechanical fuel pump Holley makes. The others are 110, 130, and 170 GPH.

D.Hearne · Aug 11, 2007

Ok, I see now. I can't see why they don't offer smaller pumps for carbs. With my 30 gph pump, you'd have to be getting less than 2 mpg to use the full flow. 80gph? that's down to less than a mile per gallon.

jeffnoel · Aug 11, 2007

So I checked a couple things out. I removed the valve covers and rotated the engine by hand and verified the standard 15426378 firing order and set the timing at 10 degrees on the balancer with the magnetic pickup lined up firing on #1. I also checked my MSD box and coil using the instructions I found on the MSD website. With the ignition OFF I pulled the coil wire from the distributor and placed it about 1/2 inch from the block (ground), then turned the ignition ON but no cranking I used a jumper wire between the green and violet wires at the connector on the MSD box which causes the coil to fire and spark jump the 1/2-in gap at the coil wire. I did get spark so it appears my coil and MSD box are working properly. My new fuel pump is supposed to come in later today, probably hold off on trying to start it again until tomorrow.

Timing set at 10 degrees

Distributor set to fire on #1

New Pump installed

jeffnoel · Aug 12, 2007

Finally some good news, I got it started today but could only let it run for about 5-6 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm because it started overheating. I had the cap off the radiator to verify flow and before we got it on I lost about 1/2 of the coolant and the temp went to about 210-220 and I shut it down. It also appears I can't go by the timing marks on the Professional Products balancer either as I had it set at 10 degrees as shown in the picture but to get it started we started rotating the distributor until it fired and we checked it after I shut it down and the pointer is about 3/4 inch to the left of the zero mark on the balancer and the distributor pointing way right of center. So I think when all is done I'll mark and pull the ditributor and rotate it to the next tooth on the cam to bring vacuum can on the distributor back towards the engine centerline.

After letting it cool down I fired it back up it ran for about 1 minute before the alternator belt snapped and I had to shut it down again. By then it was 6:30 pm and I figured if I went and got a new belt the neighbors would linch me because the open headers at 2000+ rpm is loud as you know what. So I'll get a new belt in the morning and try again late morning while most are at work.

So have I done any damage only letting it run a few minutes at a time? I did see 50 psi oil pressure and have 2 gallons of Rotella and 2 bottles of Crane breakin lube in the pan.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks -Jeff

Here are pics of what I'm describing above.

CraigMBA · Aug 12, 2007

Wait till 6 am and fire it up.

You live in Clovis. Nobody will notice. Much.

BTW, put the cap back on the radiator.

dennis112 · Aug 13, 2007

Shutting it down and starting up the motor again later and immediately going to 2000-2500 rpm will not hurt the cam during break in. Letting the motor sit at idle during that time will be much more harmful.

Fill the radiator. Keep a garden hose handy and dose the radiator if the car starts to get hot. Might mar that pretty paint but it will help to keep the motor cool during the cam break-in.

Good Luck!

D.Hearne · Aug 13, 2007

Where you have the distributor stabbed and the balancer marks are two different things. The timing should read what it reads, regardless of how the distributor body is indexed. If the balancer marks are off, they're off.

jeffnoel · Aug 13, 2007

She's alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

<div align="center">
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geostang351 · Aug 14, 2007

jeffnoel said:
She's alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What was the problem?

jeffnoel · Aug 14, 2007

Timing, as we finally just kept turning the distributor until she started.

meweehaa · Aug 14, 2007

Had that same problem years ago. No matter how hard I tried it ended up being a tooth off. Took me probably 5 times to get it to drop in the correct place.

jeffnoel · Aug 23, 2007

OK, I've ran it through a couple heat cycles know and need to re-torque things like heads, headers, intake, etc..

Question is, do I re-torque with the engine warm or cold?

D.Hearne · Aug 23, 2007

If you have Felpro head gaskets, they don't need to be retorqued. You can check everything else, do them cold. Header gaskets need this about once a month for a few months before they'll settle. Maybe once a year or as needed afterward.

jeffnoel · Aug 23, 2007

Thanks, here's another video from the headers point of view...

Problems encountered while attempting to break-in a new cam

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