Problems with starter maybe or flywheel?

Did the starter grind or sound like it was working harder than it should be to turn over the engine ? .. The same thing happened to my brother's truck and the starter wasn't fully engaging the flywheel and it ended up chewing the teeth off of the flywheel :(.. hope its something insignifigant.. we all know about flywheels for ii's
 
cobraii74x said:
Did the starter grind or sound like it was working harder than it should be to turn over the engine ? .. The same thing happened to my brother's truck and the starter wasn't fully engaging the flywheel and it ended up chewing the teeth off of the flywheel :(.. hope its something insignifigant.. we all know about flywheels for ii's

No, the starter and everything sounded good, just all of the sudden wouldn't turn the engine over at all, the starter just winds up now.
 
IICrazy said:
I have a lifetime warranty on the starter, so I will just replace it. I'll know more when I get the car home and tear into it.

go with the drive replacement if it sounded good before. Once you lose the original fitting casing its all down hill As a matter of a fact some folks just have their original rebuilt. I know you said it was a lifetime but there are differences in the casings Trust me!!!!

Good luck.. drives are only 6 bux
 
So it's not making a 'klunk' before it spins up?

The klunk is the plunge lever being pulled into the special field coil and moving the bendix into the ring gear.

When the plunger seats it opens a contact that breaks a ground and the motor starts turning.

If the contacts aren't grounding the special field probably isn't making enough EMF to pull the plunger into position, thus no clunk and no bendix engagment.

So you may only have a set of boffed contacts inside the starter. May be broken, may only need to be cleaned.

Addendum:

Many times a grinding Ford starter is this set of ground contacts going south coupled with a weak return spring. Because the contacts are bad the motor starts turning soon as juice is put to it, and the spring isn't strong enough to keep the plunger from being 'slowly' pulled into the field coil so there is a spinning bendix engaging the ring gear.
 
zwhitr said:
go with the drive replacement if it sounded good before. Once you lose the original fitting casing its all down hill As a matter of a fact some folks just have their original rebuilt. I know you said it was a lifetime but there are differences in the casings Trust me!!!!


Wellll

No reason to get rid of anything except the broken part .....

Get another starter, take it home, swap out what you need into your starter, put the other starter back together with the scrap parts and take it back to the parts house.

Fact, you can build a pretty good starter using this method.

And part's houses are filled with trained Monkeys who couldn't find the difference if you gave them a map.

Trust me.
 
Wart said:
And part's houses are filled with trained Monkeys who couldn't find the difference if you gave them a map.

Trust me.

You got that right! As long there is a part in the "core return" box they don't care and 99.9% of the time can't tell the difference. Don't ask me how I know this is true. :rolleyes:

Tim
 
Stewart Ledford said:
OK GUYS THERE HAVE BEEN CONSIDERABLE PROBLEMS WITH OUR STARTERS C4 MUSTANG II 302. I WENT THROUGH A LOT OF WORK AND RESEARCH TO LEARN THE II USES A DIFFERENT STARTER DRIVE. NOT ALL THE REBUILDERS KNOW THIS, NOT ALL THE REBUILT STARTERS COME WITH THE CORRECT DRIVE. THE DRIVE ITSELF IS II SPECIFIC AND ONLY FITS MUSTANG II V8, & MAVERICK AND OTHERS WITH 200 & 250 C.I. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES. IT IS AVAILABLE AT AUTOZONE

Thats fine but I have a 4spd and can pick up a starter anywhere
 
IICrazy said:
Thats fine but I have a 4spd and can pick up a starter anywhere
laughs....hey thats great.....you can also push start....us C4 guys are really stuck.....can carry a spare starter in the tire well but then removing that motor mount and header & lifting the engine along a busy highways a real bitch.
Glad you figured out your problem.
Stewart
 
Stewart Ledford said:
laughs....hey thats great.....you can also push start....us C4 guys are really stuck.....can carry a spare starter in the tire well but then removing that motor mount and header & lifting the engine along a busy highways a real bitch.
Glad you figured out your problem.
Stewart

I've got it down now, I can change the starter in about 15-20 minutes, because I've done it so much. the headers are a pain though.
 
Got the starter out, and there were no bolts holding it in. The bolts must have worked themselves loose, There is an oil leak that drips directly ontop of it. The flywheel is dinged up, but not too bad, the starter bolt hole is gone.

Does anyone know the sizes of the bolts for the starter?
 
IICrazy said:
Got the starter out, and there were no bolts holding it in. The bolts must have worked themselves loose, There is an oil leak that drips directly ontop of it. The flywheel is dinged up, but not too bad, the starter bolt hole is gone.

Does anyone know the sizes of the bolts for the starter?
IICrazy
The bolts I use are 3/8" 16 thread 1 inch in length. Fix your oil leak.
Stewart
 
Wart said:

attachment.php

This pic should explain, better than I can.