Build Thread Project Phoenix (94 Cobra) Part 2

Labora

Founding Member
Jun 11, 2000
1,849
25
69
Dallas, Texas
Thought I would post a update as a new round of upgrades are about to start. In case some people don't remember me/my car check out my original build up of the car.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/project-phoenix-94-cobra.766511/

Anyhow I drove the car for awhile was daily driving it at one point because my truck was having some issues. About 7 months ago it started shooting steam out of the exhaust. I suspected a head gasket had gone bad.

So I went ahead and yanked the motor out to see what I could find out.
2s81ms7.jpg

345gc5l.jpg


I tore down the engine and one of the cylinders had water in it, the headgasket had some material burned off around one of the waterjackets and a slight impression on the compression ring. To be honest I'm not sure what happened and it isn't of too much concern. Because, I knew the next time the motor came out I would be wanting to look at my options for a upgrades.

I ended up swapping my motor and transmission with a friends of mine plus some cash. My friend installed this motor in his 67 Stang around 2006 and since then only drove the car MAYBE 100 miles.
2h3y15g.jpg

(Photo of it when I helped him put it in the first time around.)
2ujkuok.jpg

156e3gg.jpg

The engine is a 351w stroked to a 408 with AFR 185 heads and a fairly large cam (haven't got the specs in my hands yet.) Rotating assembly is balanced and blue printed but not forged should still be good enough for what I plan to do.
Also got his AOD-E with a PI stall converter and a B&M hammer shifter.

So now I have a fairly long parts list to collect, as well as some research to be done on my part. More to come soon, probably post my parts list looking for some feedback.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


So this is still a thing...
23wpc8z.jpg


Long time coming on this update. I got this motor put in many moons ago due to the oil pan and headers not clearing a stock kmember my progress slowed to a stop. I also got a another car which I have been working on and racing which has taken my attention away from this.

wl3fop.jpg

Anyhow onward. I finally got a new kmember, even after heavily notching the stock one it just wasn't going to work. I get a discount from work on QA1 so it is what I went with. I am doing a complete refresh of the front suspension (new hubs, 03-04 Cobra control arms, steeda x2 ball joints etc.) more to come on that later.

I have everything in and fitting now so I plan to take it back out one last time to get all the accessories on and all the gaskets set and everything bolted on and sealed up. I still have to do some work to the adapter plates for the headers and change the pickup.
14w4sir.jpg
 
This car needs a intervention, has been a long time since I posted or worked on it much. I got another race car that has taken up my time as of late.

Anyway spent today working on a few things, and have been stock piling parts I need. Pulled the dash and got new heater core installed, also took the time to clean out all the dead leaves/dirt in the cowl.
20190105_160433.jpg


The engine is now back in the car for hopefully the last time, I was able to get the water pump and timing cover on. Alternator will not clear my Valve covers, but I have a few ideas to fix that. Had to track down a new flexplate as the one I had was probably not sfi approved. Also got a lightweight romac balancer over the heavy steel one this came with.
20181213_183352.jpg


Got everything needed to rebuild the front suspension and also the power steering system as well. The small box is microsquirt setup for the stock harness. Will be giving it a shot to run this whole deal.
20180627_183922.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Got rid of the 2" drop springs I had for some trick springs also got drag shocks/struts. Cut 2 coils on fronts have yet to install the rears. Should look good curious how much they will help the launch.
20180720_183306.jpg
20180607_173507.jpg

And a pic of my shop helper because.
20181215_142548.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Last weekend I also got the B&M shifter mounted, removed the radio, and airbag + some of the sensors for it.

Working on my lists today, 2 race cars is a bad idea btw...

Next big job is going to be back half of the car.
I already have drag springs/shocks, upper/lower control arms, and a diff cover to install.
I need to find a torque box upgrade kit and also have a pinon seal I need to fix.
Planning to replace the fuel pump since it has had nasty gas in it for so long. Haven't decided what size yet, I have a 340 around which is overkill starting off but would be ok if I plan to run e85 later with nitrous.

After that stuff is done I can start working on getting the engine running next.

20190113_135913.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Only other photos I have at the moment, the shifter install fits but is far from presentable will have to DIY some bezels and blocks of for center console, also switching to 99-04 bezel to fit some gauges so it is just a mess at the moment. This is normally how the car sits, makes a decent garage shelf.

I did testfit the skinnies awhile back, but this is without the springs having a chance to settle and car has lowering springs in back so curious how it will sit when it is all said and done, guess will see. Need to figure out what to do with my Cobra brakes, probably going to shelf them and pickup some GT brakes cheap.

Oh and the dog is too sweet to bite anyone, terrible guard dog too.
20181218_112737.jpg

20181215_144223.jpg
20180912_185641.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Updated to the list of things to do. Also found out I will have to order a gas tank, dropped mine to put in larger pump and found out the baffle is broke on mine!

20190113_135913.jpg
Pulled all the parts off the shelf this next project.
FMS Diff cover
Drag Springs
50/50 Shocks
MM Lower Control Arms
Aftermarket uppers
New rubber bits
Upper/lower TQ box upgrades and comp engineering lower plates
New stainless brake lines
Pinion seal to replace the leaky one I have now.
thumbnail_20190209_125152.jpg
First step was to get housing out to make welding easier and swap parts.
thumbnail_20190209_144743.jpg
Draining the terrible smelling fluids.Found out I do not have upper axle bushings so just ordered some!
thumbnail_20190209_144756.jpg
thumbnail_20190209_161846.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Got the lower torque boxes cut open to fit in the reinforcement plates.
20190211_200343.jpg 20190211_200326.jpg

Next move will be getting everything cleaned up underneath, need to wash out some dirt/grime so will be clean before I start removing paint to prep for weld.

I also need to figure out what to do with these Competition Engineering Torque Box Plates, the are listed 79-95 but they do not sit flat like they do on a foxbody. (Happen to have one in garage so test fit on that too and they sit flush.)

Your can sort of see from this picture how high it is sitting, will probably weld 3 corners and bend the other.
20190211_200433.jpg 14429.jpg
 
Still working on the rear end, got the Upper plates in and painted and the lowers in and welded. Stitch welded the uppers and lowers. Waiting to paint the lowers until I can get the competition engineering plates fitted. Is going to require cutting some spot welds because 94-95 are bastard year cars, will try and explain with better pictures as I do it for future reference.
 

Attachments

  • 20190223_190238.jpg
    20190223_190238.jpg
    303.6 KB · Views: 179
  • 20190223_182506.jpg
    20190223_182506.jpg
    337.5 KB · Views: 175
  • 20190223_182511.jpg
    20190223_182511.jpg
    342 KB · Views: 186
  • 20190224_180711.jpg
    20190224_180711.jpg
    284.6 KB · Views: 224
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Here is a quick update and a tid bit for any future search. I just finished up the install on the Competition Engineering C8015 Torque Box Lower Reinforcement Plates these are listed as fitting 79-04.

I test fit on a 93 hatch and they sit flat and would require almost no work to use, BUT the 94-95 are the red headed step children of the fox platform and the torque box is shaped a little different than other years.

To make these work you will need to cut a notch and slip these plates behind them, hammer flat and weld down. I thought this to be the best option that will turn out the cleanest in the end. The main reason I got these was to allow for a nice flat spot for the subframe connectors to attach to.
 

Attachments

  • 53022102_308063843185007_4546421280240304128_n.jpg
    53022102_308063843185007_4546421280240304128_n.jpg
    261.9 KB · Views: 231
  • 53043032_383044999212032_4287838814224777216_n.jpg
    53043032_383044999212032_4287838814224777216_n.jpg
    279.8 KB · Views: 285
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users