Progress Thread Project Zombie. Re-animating a corpse

CassieL

Active Member
May 15, 2024
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Tyler Texas
Not like this it won't. Cylinders had a bit of surface rust but wd 40 and steel wool took care of that and she rotates smoothly.
Didn't get a chance to clean the cylinders and piston tops but will be getting that done tonight.
 

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I'm just going to put the heads back on and see what the compression is. This is basically just to see if I've got a good motor.
Heads check out. I'm going to put new valve stem seals in.
 
I gotten worse engines back to running condition. And 302's are resilient motors.
There's still some stains in the cylinders but there cleaning up. There's still some cross hatch visible.
Anyway I never got a full story on this car but with the bbk headers and the under drive pulley on the crank, i suspect it had another intake on it and that was taken off and that sn95 intake was in the car. I filled the #5 cylinder up with marvel before i thought to take a before pic.
I'll see how it turns out but really if i don't feel confident in the motor I've got a running one i can put in it.
 
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Everyone has their own way of dealing with something like this. What I'd do would be tear it down, clean it up, dingle ball or spring hone the cylinders for a decent cross hatch, replace what NEEDED replacing, then throw it back together and see what it does. Since others have mentioned the oil pump - I'd pull it apart too, but I'll bet it's fine. Oil pumps are so simple I couldn't see how it'd get screwed up even if it did suck up some water or something. If rust in the pick up tube is a concern, I'd get myself a bore brush and run that through to the screen while submerged in a tub of solvent, then use compressed air to blow back through it to dry it and get rid of any residual debris before reassembling it all. From what I see in those pics, I don't think you'll have too much trouble making it a decent running engine again after adding some elbow grease.
 
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I've done more blown head gasket jobs in twenty years than i care to remember. A lot of them sat for weeks or months before the came into the shop. They always have rust in the cylinders that had water sitting in them.
Al ittle marvel and a detail brush and put it back together and as good as new. I've pulled engines from the pnp and installed in cars only replacing the thermostat and changed the oil twice in after a few warm up cycles.
Iron engines will clean themselves.
Do i expect to get a hundred thousand miles out of it? Of course not. I just want to get to car driving in the shortest amount of time.
I'm not able to pull the motor where it's at.
 
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Got the heads ready to go on. Valves are lapped and new valve stem seals are on.
Surface rust in cylinders is all cleaned up. Lifters and push rods are sitting in parts cleaner. Will try to get the heads on tomorrow if I get time.
 

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Got a lot done the pads few days. Heads cleaned up, valves lapped and new seals installed. All the rust came out of the cylinders and cross hatch is still good.
Put the heads and valve train back on. Monday I'll get the intake back on and install the wiring.
 

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So I've got all new ac parts coming from rock auto except for the compressor which i pulled from a truck at the pick n pull.
I'm going with a fs 10 because the old 80's compressors aren't as good as the fs 10.
The compressor/ power steering bracket from a 90's obs truck fits the mustang and the mustang shares the same alternator bracket as the truck so they have the same spacing.
An adapter manifold for the compressor allows the fox body hoses to be used with the fs10
Electric fans from a 94-95 mustang will keep the ac cold sitting in traffic. I'm using a ecu from a 94 gt i got at the pick n pull. It's for a stick so it won't care about the AOD.
I have already repinned the ecu connector to match the injectors. I'm going to wire it fo a remote mount tfi but will use the dizzy mount that i have until i get the car back in the road. I have the ccrm harness added to the ecu connector as well so i can have the ecu control the fans. I'll leave the eec and fuel pump relays where they are for now.
The fs10 also uses a hi pressure switch to control fans and ther ccrm controls ac and wot cut out. These are the only mods I'm doing.
The car already had a cai in the fender but I'll need new ducts and a filter but the through the fender plate ant mass sensor bracket is there.
I've already ran diagnostics on the used ecu and it's good. These ecu's have live data and special tests. As well as better adaptives.
I'm looking for a new upper manifold since the car had a t-bird/ sn95 style upper in it.
I think they had an aftermarket intake on it and took it off leaving this intake. It'll work.
Tho be clear this is going to be a daily driver.
So no drag racing. I'm going for drivability over power. In stock form these cars are fast enough to get in trouble. I know from experience.

So tonight is my last shift for the week.
I'm taking the wheels up to discount tomorrow to get new tires. I'll get the engine finished and everything hooked up this week so she'll be running. I'll be replacing the evaporator and heater cores before the dash goes back in but they won't be here till Wednesday or Thursday.
The one thing that i don't know yet it the transmission.
Anyway I'm rambling so I'm post pics and updates through the week.