Pulled Codes, how do I fix this?

281pony

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
2,681
2
46
Oly, WA
ok i pulled my codes in the first 2 stages.

i got a few. 23, 81, 82, and 95.

23 is the tps, no suprise there.

81 and 82 is says: air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault/ air injector diverter. so basically my air diverter? what the hell is that, probably something simple.

95: fuel pump secondary circuit fault. how do i get to that?

any help is appreciated.
 
yeah its pretty cool. 32 dollars at walmart.

i saw that 81 and 82, in detail by jricher are the smog pump. my smog was disconnected by the previous owner, am i going to need it hooked back up?

still un-sure on the fuel pump relay part.

thanks for any advice
 
Reset the TPS to to .80-.95
I think you may have a fuel pump going out on you, or possible the regulator, use the walmart code reader to run a cylinder cycle test it will test each cylinder.
 
Unfortunately you need to approach it with a list and cross them off as you check..painful sometimes but luckily you will oftem stumble across other things in need of repair while trying to solve your original problem. Eventually you will solve the problem so just keep at it.
 
i did the other tests now and it seems fine, except for the code 95.

fuel pump secondary circuit fault, whatever that is. think it is the regulator? ill change the tps later tonight, dont have anyway to read the volts here. fuel pump issue makes sense though somewhat, no power, surging/bumping at a consistant speed.
 
Code 95 - the 95 code is because at one time or another the fuel pump relay circuit hiccupped and didn't provide power the pump when the computer told it to run. Sometimes this is a one time thing, other times it is a no run or runs poorly condition. If you are having problems, follow the test path.

To help troubleshoot the 95 code, follow this link for a wiring diagram http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif

Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. No voltage there, check the Orange/lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.