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Pulled the codes for my buddy... need inputs.

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheDamned
  • Start date Start date Jun 27, 2007

TheDamned

"I am Canadian and Damned for it!"
Jul 22, 2003
457
0
48
Montréal, Québec, Canada
Jun 27, 2007
#1
  • Jun 27, 2007
  • #1
41 - HEGO(H02S) sensor voltage low / system lean

What the hell, what's the H02 sensor ?

33 - EGR valve not opening properly


Any ideas how to fix this for his car ?

Thanky.
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Jun 27, 2007
#2
  • Jun 27, 2007
  • #2
you have 2 Ho2 (heated oxygen sensors) sensors located in the exhaust system they may and prolly need replacing and with the egr valve you need to check the vacuum line first to ensure the egr is getting vacuum and then test egr by applying vacuum to the vacuum line connection to see if diaphram holds vacuum.


heres a link that might help you with the o2 problem from this site just use the search function http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=6712957



o2 sensor
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Jun 27, 2007
#3
  • Jun 27, 2007
  • #3
click on link heres some info on egr....http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=707234&highlight=EGR+valve
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Jun 28, 2007
#4
  • Jun 28, 2007
  • #4
Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1 ohm.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 2- 5 in vacuum

The operation of the EGR vacuum regulator can be checked by using a test light applied across the wiring connector. Jumper the computer into self test mode and turn the key on but do not start the engine. You will hear all the actuators (including the EVR vacuum regulator) cycle. Watch for the light to flicker: that means the computer has signaled the EGR vacuum regulator successfully.
 

TheDamned

"I am Canadian and Damned for it!"
Jul 22, 2003
457
0
48
Montréal, Québec, Canada
Jun 28, 2007
#5
  • Jun 28, 2007
  • #5
Thanks buddy, ill link my friend here.+
 
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