In summary A few things i want to know is:
Can i convert over to the new style rocker set up (non rail type)??? if so what will i need.
If i have to use rail type would i be safe with the nylon lock style nut. OR can i get poly locks...????
I assume i need to set the cam on base circle and check again...
I used a normal hydrolic lifter converted over to a "solid" by flipping the plunger i assume i need to add +.030 to the pushrod length to correct for lifer preload.
Also when i dissembled the heads i found some sort of washer "shim" under the stud do i need them, if so when???
Another thing i notice is that the rockers sit almost right on the spring retainer is there a certain clearance that i should check for???
Am i on the right track with these questions or am i completely out of my mind...
Adam,
The pic on this link that you posted for rail rocker's shows how high up the arm sets over the retainer. This is just how my Comp rail rockers were that I used on stock 1969 351 heads that came stock with rail rockers that we talked about on the phone. Look how long the valve tips are and how high up the rocker is. The pic's of your motor are not like this at all. This is why I said you should measure the tip length to be sure that they are longer valves for rail rockers and are not normal length valves for a standard rocker. You said that the guy who looked at the heads said they were longer correct?? By looking at your pic's compared to the pics on the link yours are not the same. Crane cams website says .040-.050" clearance between the rocker and retainer.
Yours look like standard length valves in the pictures that's why your rockers are sitting so close to the retainer.
Then again pictures can be deceiving and you have to look at it in person.
Rail or Non-Rail type rockers - FordMuscle.com Forums
Poly locks are just nuts with a allen screw to lock it, like I said on the phone I used them with these rockers. There should be no reason you can't use them with the Comp rockers...if you still are concerned contact Comp and ask them. they just have a allen screw instead of nylon to keep them from backing off.
The cam has to be on the base..or the valve completely closed when you set "Zero" lash.
Yes you have to add the .030 for the lifter collapse. We talked about this before and there is a link stating this and the head gasket thickness that you found and posted. Not sure why there would be a question on this still??
The shim under the stud I have no idea why the heads had them.
In the pic of your heads on the motor your rockers look like they are sitting sideways and not straight. I'm talking about the link on pg 1 of "Pushrod problems" This is not right.
http://forums.stangnet.com/736129-pushrod-problems.html
You say..."I think it might have something to do with the size of the holes in the heads for the pushrods... along with the longer valve tips as well as there being no guide plates.... "
Something is going on...if you had rail rockers OR standard rockers with guideplates makes no difference the rockers will sit straight from the pushrod to the valve, not an angle like what your pic's look like. I'm assuming that they are at an angle and it's not just the pic from your response.
