Putting the stang away for winter.

put sta-bil in the gas tank.

sta-bil, dont forget
if you dont have garage space, a cover will be fine.

make sure you have atleat a 50/50 mix in the cooling system.

It'd be wise to store the vehicle in the garage, and at least ONCE a week, start the car, leave it running for 5 minutes, rev the engine for 30 seconds to about 2000 rpm [this will help circulate the oil better], then bring the rpms back down leave it running for another 5 minutes then shut'er down.

You really don't need to put anything into the gas tank, just make sure you have a little less than 1/4 tank and you will be fine..

AS for maintenance tune up, you don't need to do the plugs or anything.. I'd recommend you do an engine flush, (if you dont know, just dumping some engine flush into the motor, let it run and drain it, then replace it with new oil).... You should be good to go.. you *MIGHT* even consider a fuel systems cleaner, if your injectors get a bit dirty..

You don't need anything fancy, I work at a mechanics shop and I get all sorts of people asking me weird questions about storing their cars. Just start'er up once a week [or preferably whenever it gets real cold] and you'll be fine.

This is going to be my 4th year parking it for the winter. I usually dont take any special measures and keep the car in a garage (1 winter under a tarp). But during the winter, i get the itch to start it, so i keep all fluids in the car and ready to go for when i start to fiend.
you can do a tuen up in the spring if you would like, cant really hurt.

more important than the time duration of running it periodically is the temps achieved.
the point is to boil the water out of the oil - or else sulfuric acid (i think im right, but Michael or someone else might correct me if sulfuric acid is wrong) will eat the internals. IIRC, hydrocarbons and water are what create sulfuric acid.

I also reccomend the Stabil, if it is going to sit in a very cold climate it might not hurt to have a 60% antifreeze, 40% water mixture, last thing you want to do it pop a freeze plug. Use a tester to see how good the coolant is good for.

If you run a thick oil during the summer, change it to a thinner grade. It is also a good idea to keep it up on jackstands and let the suspension unload, try to keep it over a concrete area, grass will kill the underside of the car with mositure.

For you race guys it is best to release the pressure on the rockers to save those expensive high pressure valve springs

Here are some good tips...

http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk/tipowk15.html

I heard around that you should NOT start the car once a week. That the "dry" start is the most wearing since the oil has settled and in a sense you would just be wearing the engine more than needed if you did it that often.

Of course we all have withdrawal at one time or another and just HAVE to hear and feel those 5.0s purring...

holy heck there is some terrible advice in this thread.

Do fill the gas tank. Stabil if it helps you sleep. Full tank leaves less room for condensation, Gas will last 6 months just fine.

Do oil change before you put it up, and when you get it out. This keeps water out of the oil.

Do fog it on shut down. Search engine fogger, usually aviable at marine stores.

Do disconnect the battery. Should not need any trickle charge, but, fill your boots.

Do Not unload the suspension. This exposes parts that are not meant to be exposed... particularly shock tubes, they could coorode(sp?) this would eat seals and sliding surfaces... Radial tires will be nice and round again before you get into 3rd gear.

Do Not start it. This invites all kinds of condensation issues, not to mention cold start up is the worst thing a motor goes thru. And, you fogged it, you're fine.

Do wash and wax. Dirt will stain, wax will protect.
Do thoroughly clean inside. You want no left over smells of Sonic to invite Mr. Mouse. Do not leave gum suckers breath mints etc. in it.

Do Not cover it if it's outside. Geat way to trap moisture and dust. Dust traped under a cover and left over time with winds, is a great way to sand the paint. Also moisture trapped, is a great way to freeze the cover to the paint... wind comes along... paint goes bye bye.

Do put a tarp under it if it's outside. keeps ground moisture from rotting the underside.

Bounce sheets inside are a good idea.

Tape up exhaut, induction, hole in the fire wall, and put the windows fully up.

You see, the car sits in an enviorment where tepmuatures will go up and down (as will humidity) this causes moisture all on it's own. Moisture is you enemy.

Good luck.

everything that cleanlx said is what i do every year. i have been storing my car away since new every winter. i store mine in the garage. i just fill the gas tank(i never put any sta-bil in the tank), change the oil before and after winter. i only start the car in the spring when i'm ready to use it again. i will prime the oil pump before i start the car up. again what cleanlx said is a great idea to do if you can.

I usually run mine till it reaches normal running temp every few days just to keep everything from sitting too long. I figure that gives all the moisture that built up time to burn out. I'll even take it for a ride if the weather is really nice just because I really don't like it sitting in one place that long. Of course that if it's not sitting in pieces like it somehow does every winter.

ram360 said:

I usually run mine till it reaches normal running temp every few days just to keep everything from sitting too long. I figure that gives all the moisture that built up time to burn out.

Click to expand...

You've just created even more moisture having heated everything up, and now allowing it to cool again. Tempurature changes create moisture/condensation.
You do what you feel is right

cleanLX said:

You've just created even more moisture having heated everything up, and now allowing it to cool again. Tempurature changes create moisture/condensation.
You do what you feel is right

Click to expand...

Well isn't that just the same effect as what happens if you would just drive the car normally all winter??

If it's at all possible, keep the car in running order and when the weather/road conditions permit, crank it up, get it out and drive it. At least 20-30 minutes at a time. The exhaust system FILLS with condensation on a cold start up and you must drive it far enough to completely dry out the exhaust system. You almost can't run it long enough sitting still to dry it out. And that water sitting in the exhaust rusts it out from the inside. Hit the defroster or just hit the a/c switch for a bit to circulate freon/lubricant to the a/c seals. Keep the tank full, plenty of antifreeze, trickle charge the battery for quick starts, change to a lighter grade oil to ease the cold starts.

If you can't drive it regularly - then follow CleanLX's excellent instructions. I'd add to simply roll the car fore/aft a foot or so every week or two. Even radials can take a bit of a set over the winter. Only takes a little movement to put the tires in a different place. Oh - temp drops decrease tire pressures. Go ahead and pump 'em up to about 35-40 psi now. That way they'll still have good pressure when the temp really drops.

No matter what you do, don't put it under a cover outside. You can tape craft paper to the inside of the windows to keep light/UV out of the interior if it has to sit outside. If it's in a garage, a cover will help keep dust/droppings/etc. off of it.

Best thing you can do is to find a way to drive it once a week or so.