Qa1 14-110 Coil Overs Springs

Never the cheapest route but check out maximum Motorsports website. They have an install kit for most combos. And +1 on the strange engineering parts

The more you lower the car, the stiffer the springs have to be to keep it from bottoming. You appear to be interested in as low as it can go, and 110 lb springs is WAY too light for lowering.

Undeadknight26 said:

I don't want that low tbh I just want to close that gap between the wheel and the fender and hoping that helps with the cars handling because its body roll is insane and spins out quite often. I was thinking it might be the tires so I'll be changing those out also...Might even change out the whose suspension set up if I have the money and I need to XD

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I'm concerned.

Fox Mustangs, even in 4 cylinder orientation cannot be described as having "insane body roll". Nor do they "spin out quite often"
As a matter of fact, you would be the only one here that has made that claim.

Poor handling characteristics are relative. If the suspension on the car is intact, (i.e. the control arm, and sway bar bushings aren't shot, and, there is in fact a front sway bar installed), then these cars handle very well with stock components.
Just adding a wider, better compound tire by itself will improve that, lowering the car w/ one of the myriad of lowering spring kits that are out there will help out even more.

Now,....that said, under what circumstances are you experiencing the car "spinning out" and the body rolling "insanely"?

My bet,.......you either dont have a front sway bar, or the bushings are gone, the control arm bushings are shot, and you dont have a rear sway bar.
Or
You have all of that stuff in place, and something is either broken, or rotted (rust) and the suspension is now moving all over the place, allowing for "insane body roll, and spinning out way too easy."

Lowering the car will not solve a condition where the rubber bushings that keep the suspension centered are badly deteriorated and sloppy. 14/110 springs are drag springs,....and will not support the weight of the car. Most coil overs on the front of most street driven fox cars are 14-150-14-175#'s or greater.

I'd say that you need to focus on the issues. If the doors and fenders are so bad that they are shot, I'll bet the front frame rails are shot as well.

I guess I should have asked what your intended use is. Unless track car(any type of track) the basic typical parts and tires will have these cars drive/handle/perform well. There are some inherent drawbacks to fox bodies. Especially compared to a new "sports" car. But if it's in good mechanical shape with typical boltons they are fun and dependable. If you want a descent ride that's slightly lowered I recommend some standard lowering springs(eibach,Ford,etc) with new struts and shocks(KYB are a good budget friendly item-I really like my strange adj which are cheaper also),cc plates with a good alignment. Obviously the tie rods,bushings,etc etc have to be in good mechanical condition.

Undeadknight26 said:

Its not insane but its there but I guess thats when I'm comparing it to my brothers cars...But I'm pretty sure the spinning out is the tires fault because its some super hard high performance tires I forgot the name...But if the road is wet or your on gravel you spin out quite often (Driving regularly). I will change the tires as soon as possible and check the bushings but I know I have a sway bar. I want a daily driver I can have fun with though! If I try pushing the car and there is some sand on the road I can feel the car slip tires a little. The car was a beater and has quite a bit of work to do to it. Sadly a tree fell on my brothers car so we were forced to put it on the road. I apologize if some of the stuff I say sound irrational because as I state quite often I don't know much about cars and I'm learning but just learning slowly as this is my first car
The car doesn't have much body rust and the guy said he replaced most of the suspension parts.
Also the doors do work but they are just a little shaky and creaky.

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If the doors are creaky...WD-40. Shaky? For curiosity sake, is this when the windows are down (window track may be wore and moving back and forth causing additional vibration)?

The door pins are a cheap and easy fix for the doors.

The gravel/sand road spin outs are common for locking rear-ends not equipped with traction control. That's any car, but if yours has the 2.3.....the rear end is not a posi and shouldn't break loose that easy...still will if your put you foot into it.

The wet road thing sounds like drag radials which are not meant for wet roads anyways.

Nothing is irrational just verbiage and phases can mean different things for different people. These cars handle fairly well for an SRA in the NASA and SCCA classes and don't tend to break loose unless you let it, very predictable suspension.

I recommend pick up the V8 brakes and sway bars someone has laying in their garage and it will do wonders for that car.

Best of luck to ya

When you say "spin out", do you mean wheelspin, or the car spinning out of control? Because if you say the car spins out of control often, I would say three things: First, slow the down. Second, There may be something seriously wrong with the rear suspension. Lastly, maybe your first mod needs to be tightening the "nut behind the wheel".

Additionally,....a high performance tire is not "super hard". An old one is.

Well if you are have trouble buying parts, go get them from a junkyard.

There are a bunch of list for stock components that are great upgrades (click on the link). I think there's a sticky on here somewhere but Google is your friend.

Let me google that for you


And you said your brothers car got smashed by a tree.....do y'all still have it? Probably some salvageable parts off of it.