Quarter Window removal, Molding, Effects brackets?
- Thread starter Nightstalker5.0
- Start date
04sleeper
Founding Member
In order to remove the Quarter windows you must first remove the inside rear interior panels. Then you will see small nuts around the edge of the window. (the window has studs coming out of it). Remove all the nuts. Then take a thin screwdriver or coathanger to push through the black glue. I used a thin peice of fishing wire and just kept moving it back and forth in a sawing motion and worked it all the way around the window to seperate the glue from the car and the window. I had a friend outside of the car with the other end of the wire while I was inside. You could use a coat hanger but it requires more effort. (Bigger diameter wire) Don't try to pry the window with a screwdriver or it will break!
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
04sleeper
Founding Member
04sleeper
Founding Member
I weighed my car that night at Moroso Motorsports Park in WPB and it weighed 2980 without me and 3180 with me. I was running skinnies and no spare tire with about 1/4 tank of gas.
04sleeper
Founding Member
Not really. I still have a full interior but I do have a stock raise fiberglass hood and a tubular K-member and A-arms and coil over front's. Also I have a factory manual rack from a 79-81 Mustang. I think the Intake helps me. I also tried 2 sets of headers.....MAC 1 1/2" Equal Length Shorties and FRPP 1 5/8" Ceramic Shorties. I lost power with both so I actually grinded down the weld on the inside of my stock headers and put them back on. I will put the FRPP's back on when I get my new shortblock and some heads. You are in PSL.....We should hook up some time.
04sleeper
Founding Member
I might be doing this soon. I hate the pitted rubber arround the windows. Ugg, it ruins the car. Everything is replacable except the quarter glass window moldings, which are attached to the windows, and they don't make new stuff even if you manage to get the rubber off the glass. {If I am wrong, please let me know}
I am going to try a rubber primer to fill in the cracks and black trim paint, I have the stuff, just scared to give it a try. Original worn looks better than halfassed fixed.
I am going to try a rubber primer to fill in the cracks and black trim paint, I have the stuff, just scared to give it a try. Original worn looks better than halfassed fixed.
Thanks for your help guys, day in day out work on the stang, Im 16 and im sick of seeing all the **** jobs, I don't care how long it takes but im doing it all right, once, Quarter windows are next in line so thanks for the help.
PS: anyone know if they sell a Ground effects bracket kit? they're all brittle, and have to be replaced, i've attempted to make that out of galvanized but the 1/8 lip is tough to make round on a bender. Let me know
PS: anyone know if they sell a Ground effects bracket kit? they're all brittle, and have to be replaced, i've attempted to make that out of galvanized but the 1/8 lip is tough to make round on a bender. Let me know
Not sure as to the effectiveness to them, but they do make plastic moldings that fit over top the exiting ones and "hide the unsightly and weathered factory moldings perfectly", or as they state.......
These seem to be the cheapest, but there are others:
Quarter window moldings
Anyone tried them?
These seem to be the cheapest, but there are others:
Quarter window moldings
Anyone tried them?
bgjohnson
Founding Member
damn I need to do mine too, I hear those moldings stick out and start peeling off, so for me to clarify you pop or uncrew the plastic molding on the inside of the rear quarter window, then you unscrew the the nuts on the inside, then get the window off but separating the glue from the body. OK now do you need to put new adhesive back on the window after you paint it?
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