Question about checking piston to valve clearance

jamnut87

New Member
Mar 28, 2004
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When you check it is it a good idea to use the new head gasket, or use the old one (if in decent condition)? I have the trickflow H/C/I kit and was wondering before we actually did it, cause i dont want to mess up that Sealing stuff on the new gasket.

thanks
 
I tested with no gasket then with the new gasket to see how close I was to maxing it out. Then I torqued the head and did it again with testing springs (I never used the clay) and made sure it was going to work.
 
FWIW - Use clay and not playdoh. Playdoh is too soft and will get into/on top of the valve... I made that mistake. It's also hard to get a good measurement from since it's so gooey.

I got some cheap clay at a local art store.

Rick
 
well it shouldnt be too long till we start...

we just finished putting on the new valve springs i bought for the heads (the comp cam 29618 beehive springs), figured i might as well because they will be able to handle it if i wanted to put a different cam in down the road, and they control the valves better in general.... (read an article, and testing showed that compared to a bigger with more weight on the seat (cc987), it bounced at 5650, while the behive with 3 pounds less on the seat bounced at 6650, regardless i know the cars not gonna make power up to 6600rpm with the cam i got) My dad also cleaned up the heads a little bit (there was a little mismatch between the port, and the top of the valve seat (on intake side, wasnt a big deal on exhaust), which was a little obstrution, no major porting or anything) so now everythings nice and smooth

I guess i never really said what i have going into the car
  • Trickflow H/C/I kit (Track heat intake)
  • 255 walbro fuel pump
  • 30lb ford injectors
  • 3/8in intake spacer
  • C&L 76mm Kit (the 76mm meter, inlet tube, and k&n filter)
  • Professional product 70mm throttle body
  • new lifters
And after the motor has a little time to break in
  • King cobra clutch kit
  • UPR adjustable cable/firewall adjuster/ new quadrant
  • new pilot bearing
  • new rear main seal
And then a little after all thats done
H&R super sport springs
upr upper and lower rear control arms

LOTS of work ahead of me and my dad, but its gonna be a great learning experience for me lol

If you guys ever need stuff, go to Artsperformanceparts.com

Art has awesome prices, GREAT customer service.... i bought the actual kit and alot of other stuff from him, he got the bulk of my order (summit covered the rest, accept for the fuel pump)

Thanks for reading...
and thanks for answer the questions about the piston to valve clearance

David
 
one more question, im looking for a magnetic drain plug, and i cant find the right thing.... Summit says 1/2in 20thread and advance auto parts says 14mm x 1/2in

Anyone like to share what the right thing is :rlaugh:

thanks
 
The beehives are nice. I replaced my AFR springs with those. As you probably already know, they can control better because of the progressive rate and the light weight (small) retainer. I saw a comparison a while back and IIRC, the beehive with a chrome-moly (steel) retainer and steel valve weighs less than a regular spring, CM retainer and titanium valve.

As for the plug - Autozone.com says it's a M14-1.50. I got one at a magnetic one at a parts store (Autozone or Advance Auto or somewhere) and the bolt head uses a 14mm wrench, so that would back up the autozone info as it's metric. (yes, I realize the M14 isn't bolt head size, but my point is that mine is metric, too).

Rick