Question about my new torque wrench

What are you torquing so much you need a cheater bar. Eat your wheaties.

bloggins02 said:

So, is it really a bad idea to use a cheater bar or is this just something they put in the instructions for liability reasons, as a CYA sorta thing?

Thanks

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It will give you an inacurate torque reading.
besides, the wrench is long enough to get the maximum torque for that particular wrench.
The wrenches that are adjustable up to say 70 or 80ftlbs are longer, etc.
So, no don't use a cheater bar and don't use the torque wrench to "break loose" a frozen bolt.

i agree. why would you need a cheater bar with a torque wrench?

ive torqued a bolt down to 130 pounds, on my back with one arm. one on the torque wrench one on a ratchet holding the other side.

i suppose we should have asked what size drive he got (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, etc). as said, with a 3/8 or 1/2, you should not need a cheater.

when you are torqueing something, you want to be controlled. if you are leaning on it with all your might, something is not right. no fastener within reason requires that much precision AND torque. if it is over 100 ft/#, it usually has a range (i.e. 110-130, etc).

enjoy the new toy.

Torque is a rotational force -- it's measured/calculated by applying a given force at the end of a lever arm (the wrench) of a specific length. If you hang 1 lb. of weight at the end of a 1 foot long wrench - you're applying 1 foot-pound of torque. You see how it works? So, the problem with a cheater bar is it changes the length of the wrench/lever arm - and that throws the measurement completely off. In fact, if you look at a beam-type torque wrench, the handle has a little swivel mounting - and for proper torques, you must keep the handle/swivel right in the middle of it's travel - that assures the lever arm length is accurate.

I guess the good news is that you actually read the instructions -- something my wife assures me is damn near genetically unheard of in human males. As others said - 1) only use the torque wrench to apply torques - use a breaker bar to loosen them; 2) if it's a click-type, always reset it to 0-10 ft-lbs. before storing it away; and 3) if you drop it, you really should take it in and have it recalibrated. Click types need to be recalibrated on a regular basis anyway if you want to assure accuracy. For things like lug nuts, etc. I use a click type. For internal engine assembly (heads, main bearings, rod -bolts, etc. I prefer to use the old style beam-type torque wrench. It allows you to see the torque increasing to your set point as the needle sweeps across the face. With the proper moly lube on clean threads, it makes for nice steady, even pulls up to the specified torque. And as long as the pointer is centered at zero, you know it's accurate. With the click type, you don't know you're there until you're there, and you have no way of knowing if it's out of calibration. I only use them on big bolts/nuts where there's a wide range of acceptable torques, and when the location of the bolt in question prevents me from using the beam type - which unfortunately happens quite a bit when you're torquing things with the engine in the car.

88SC_GT said:

i agree. why would you need a cheater bar with a torque wrench?

ive torqued a bolt down to 130 pounds, on my back with one arm. one on the torque wrench one on a ratchet holding the other side.

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You should never need a cheater bar, there are gear reduction units that are made for that (4:1, 6:1 etc...) We have some equipment that requires torquing the fasteners to 600lb/ft and then rotating them another 1/3 of a turn. Do that on your back with one hand.

I love it....we put gear in the car, or the blower drive. Dude's got gear for his torque wrench. Kewl. What kind of equipment/size fasteners are requiring 600 lb-ft? Just curious...

Michael, he is a heavy duty mechanic. is that like semi's? i bet stuff on those gets some nice torque.

BTW, the solution for all of this is to go to the gym.

oh yeah, single nut mount-wheels require a ton of torque. often 300- 500 lb/ft. come to think of it, anyone read about the new Carrera GT - it has single mounts and comes with a gear reduction set up, for in case Kaz is not around.

Yup - read about the GT's special tire changing tool; like those guys are gonna be changing their own tires. Right. Most will probably just call their local dealer and say - "Flat tire - come get this one and bring me another car".

dude5l said:

You should never need a cheater bar, there are gear reduction units that are made for that (4:1, 6:1 etc...) We have some equipment that requires torquing the fasteners to 600lb/ft and then rotating them another 1/3 of a turn. Do that on your back with one hand.

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no problem

Michael Yount said:

Yup - read about the GT's special tire changing tool; like those guys are gonna be changing their own tires. Right. Most will probably just call their local dealer and say - "Flat tire - come get this one and bring me another car".

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LOL.
or he calls his "garage guy" to come get it. at about 1/2 mill a pop, i think one might have some other cars and quite a stable.
im having flashbacks to the pricing on brake parts, clutch parts, etc for the Enzo.

the numbers on the GT are pretty amazing - ill never drive anything close to that, but i often relate the GT's otherwise abstract #'s to those of our bikes.

im sure your bike is faster than mine - spec on mine is 0-60 in just under 3 seconds (thanks to being able to hold 1st till 64 mph, i think) and 1320 in high 10's at 130-ish. now with a rider like me, double that number. LOL. point was, to be able to run a car with the same numbers that we do on bikes that weigh 500-600 pounds is insane!!!!
i can dream.