Question about the 4.6 ltr

stock means about 220-225 rwhp. you will not run 12s. I ran 13.8s with 230 rwhp on a lightly modded 2000. Sticky tires and suspension will get you a little more. I know now that without any weight reduction , it takes practice and about 250-260 rwhp to get high 12s or very low 13s on a GT.

do you ever get the feeling someone is trying to get info on mustangs to see if they can beat us? hmmmmmmm

n/m lol

nitrousrush said:

So my friend he already has a brand new gt its red 4.6 ltr and he just bought another one its black. He thinks its the fastest thing on the road.. its not it has 250 hp he says hes runnin 12s lol. How much hp do you think he would have to have to run 12s and how much money would have to be dumped into it. I ask him why he dont just get a svt he says he dont know? thanks... dan

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When you say brand new, do you mean an 06'?

look at the date on the thread, this was brought back from the dead.

bdcardinal said:

look at the date on the thread, this was brought back from the dead.

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Ahhh!!!! I didn't notice that!

In'till'zah said:

I forgot that my friend has some minor mods on his car. I keep forgetting that people here are very unforgiving to others for being wrong.

Hence the low post count, don't want to put up with the crap.

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well its because people who are wrong try to argue automaticly making them gay which causes us to unload the facts:SNSign:

CanadaStang said:

When you say brand new, do you mean an 06'?

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04

SaleenGT2001 said:

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when i saw the original post date.

gruntman31 said:

Y0u can do mid 12's on 250 RWHP with slicks, suspension, weight loss, and driving skills.

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I'd have to see it to believe it, in a full weight car. No reductions.

5spd GT said:

I'd have to see it to believe it, in a full weight car. No reductions.

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gruntman31 said:

Y0u can do mid 12's on 250 RWHP with slicks, suspension, weight loss, and driving skills.

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MD
http://forums.************.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1877

Before reading on I just want to say that this is basically geared towards drag racers not your average enthusiast looking for 12s on street tires with no real changes to the car. Not that it can’t be applied to someone looking for that but this is geared more towards the people out there looking for 12s and willing to work for it.

1.) Power – If you listen to some old school drag racers they may say you need at least 300+RWHP to hit 12’s in most cars. In some heavier cars that may be true but fact is suspensions are more refined these days and cars don’t weight 4,000 lbs. Most PI headed cars will hit the 245-255RWHP mark with basic mods (Pulleys, Timing Adjuster or chip, O/R H or X, K&N or other type of high flow filter and although not a power mod…gears 4.10s or 4.30s). For a bolt on GT this is enough power to get the car into the 12s after you follow the other steps. Keep in mind more power will make it easier to reach your goal or help offset more weight (see next section) but it can be done with less.

2.) Weight - You basic 5 speed coupe without driver weights 3250lbs. So with an average driver weighing about 180lbs that puts your race weight at 3430lbs. At that weight and a power to weight ratio of .075 you would need 258RWHP to hit 12’s. Power to weight is the power of your car (rear wheel) divided by race weight of the car. Using my car when I broke into the 12’s first time I was making 246RWHP and had a race weight of 3250lb, which worked out to a .075 power to weight ratio or .075RWHP per pound of the car. From what I’ve seen a car can get into the 12s with a .075 to .080 P/W ratio. So if your race weight is 3430lbs then 3430 * .075 = 257.25RWHP. As long as you keep this ratio in the .075 to .080 range you are fine plus keep in mind you can drop weight instead of adding power. An example of this is a car with a 3000lb race weight could break into the 12s with 225RWHP (close to stock power on a GT).

Now I’m sure some of you are asking about weight reduction. Basic weight reduction would be rear seat delete, removal of spare tire, jack, tire iron…these would knock a good 70-80lbs from the car. Add a set of welds or light weight race wheels and you are looking at another 60-80lbs. For more information about specific weights and more ideas look here… http://users.adelphia.net/~mustang-9...0Reduction.htm

3.) Suspension - I feel that this component has the most leeway so to speak. I’ve seen near stock suspension cars get good weight transfer. I honestly believe a car that meets the other requirements could hit 12s on the stock suspension. However those of you that want to get an edge should read on. First thing I would do is look at springs since most of us want a better stance but still want weight transfer. For that look at fox body 4cyl front springs I usually look to the junkyards for these but most buy stock replacements at a local shop (avoid Moog brand though they are taller than stock specs). For the rear end I go with fox body v8 rear springs cut anywhere from a ¼ to 1 coil to level out the car. Just keep in mind that it’s easier to cut too little than too much spring.

Next I would highly recommend a pair of sub-frame connectors welded in to tie the chassis together. Hard launches on slicks will twist the body and this will help keep it straight. Last piece to really help out is struts I went with Lakewoods because they are readily available and affordable but adjustables can be used as well if you have the budget for them. 70/30s and 90/10’s both work well and I stick with fox body specific struts since the car is lowered. Fox body specific springs are ¾” shorter than stock SN-95 springs so the lower fox body specific struts are shorter.

4.) Traction – I’ll cut to the chase here and just skip over street tires and drag radials and go right to slicks. Not that it can’t be done on these tires but it will take more power, more patience and much more writing on my part so we’ll stick to slicks. Cars in this weight range and power level only need a 26x8.5x15 ET Drag for traction. It’s close to stock tire height and is more than enough to make our cars hook on the track. A better suspension will result in better 60 foot times but even on stock suspension a good burnout on slicks will not spin unless the track is poorly prepped or fluids are on the track. Some people opt for cheap steel wheels which I don’t necessarily recommend since you are keeping extra weight on the axles. This opens you up for possible breakage so I would go with a weld wheel instead even if it’s a pair of used ones for track only purposes. Regardless a 15x8 with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern and 5.5 backspacing will fit perfect, or if you insist on a wider tire like a 10” then a 15x10 with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern and 6.5 backspacing will also work on our cars.

5.) Practice – This is one component that you can’t buy at any store, you can learn it from a text book and you can’t ask your friends about you simply have to get out there. I’m not saying everyone should be like me and hit every test and tune but don’t expect to make one trip and bingo your in the 12’s. I race on slicks for 3 months before hitting my first 12 second pass. Going to slicks alone was a big change that I had to adjust to before I got the hang of and learned to shift better, etc… Take your time, get comfortable in the car and have fun with it. Do that and you’ll achieve your goal.

Now that you know the key components to get into the 12’s you have to keep it all together.  In the above situation I would highly recommend an aftermarket shifter just to help keep the transmission alive longer. The biggest weakness in the above is the differential and axles. Not to say they can’t take some abuse because they can, mine went almost a full year of launches on slicks before breaking. I would look at a set of 31 spline axles and an Eaton or Ford 31 spline differential beefed up to keep the back end in one piece.

Bill

old thread revival....someone is bored tonight

nitrousrush said:

he wants to race my friend with a gsx will he get blazed... my friend has apexi n1 exhaust on his gsx 3 inched not cat. and he also got a greddy type 2 bov and boost controler?

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depends what year GSX and if it has anything done

if its a 1g(90-94) GSX and a manual, it comes with the 14b turbo which is a very slick turbo for a stock car. with a boost controller he can up the boost to 16-17psi on stock fuel system and run mid 14's. stock fuel system tops out at that level. if its an automatic, they have a 13c turbo and smaller injectors and cant run the same levels as a manual unless that **** is swapped out.

on a 95-99 GSX, they both(auto and manual) come stock with a T25 turbo, its a very small turbo, quick spooling but nothing up top, it can muster 15psi to redline, but after that its just hot air, he could set it to 20-22psi but all it will do is spike to that and drop to 15psi by 5k. same rules apply with the fuel system, pretty much limited to under 17psi of boost until you upgrade.

if he has done any actual mods like change out the turbo, or done his fuel system, then yeah, the stang will probably get pwned. the 14b can be efficient to around 20psi at redline, and he just needs a fuel system to push it. the T25 will have needed to get replaced to something bigger to take a stang.

BOV's do not increase power. they simply vent the air(and he should be recirculating not venting to atmosphere unless he has more advanced stuff which i will not get into) from the intake tract. the 3" exhaust and no cat, is great for alerting cops to your presence, and no cat helps with spool,

I am and will always be an avid DSMer. only reason i sold my last one is cause i realized FWD sucks, and there are no AWD for sale for the right price or condition in my area.

for the reading impaired..

THREAD IS 2.5 YEARS OLD, ORIGINAL POSTER IS NO LONGER HERE. KTHXBYE

I used to have a 01 stang and i was told that it had 290 and the engine.. does that mean that the 260 was at the wheels???

military_stang

this old and most of the original posters don't come here anymore.. so I am thowing the lock on it

military_stang said:

I used to have a 01 stang and i was told that it had 290 and the engine.. does that mean that the 260 was at the wheels???

military_stang

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If that is an 05 GT in your sig, you probably have about 260rwhp. Is your car stock?