Quick 3G Alternator Question

[93GreenLX]

Ok the directions clearly say 2 things that contradict themselves. First it says to put eyelets on the 2 power wires for the alternator (black with orange stripe) And it also says to upgrade the main power wire if you are putting on a 130 amp or higher alternator. I put on the 200 amp alternator so I figure upgrade to 200 amp inline circuit breaker and 4 gauge wire as recommended. I then capped off the two factory power wires and heatshrinked them closed. I completed the install and all went fine for 6 weeks them boom. 1 alternator burned up. Installed a new one and boom 2 200amp alternators burned up. I reinstalled my original and everything is perfectly fine. Now I know that there is a fusable link that is being bypassed by hooking up a 4 gauge power wire but the circuit breaker takes the place of that right? Second question. How should the power wire be hooked up? I ran it from the alternator to the starter relay. Is that correct? Last question. Why, if the circuit breaker is popping is the alternator still being burned up instead of just shutting down?

 

[Xaranthu]

You are not very clear on your description of the contradictions. What does upgrading the main power wire have to do with installing eyelets... you would do this regardless of changing out the wiring.

Just an edit to clerify - this diagram is for exrernal to internal regulation switch over. I would think yours was internally regulated already, but give me some more info on the stock setup. It should have been a near drop in for you, so I'm not sure what's up.

I did the 3G 160 amp install on my SVO last year and had no problems.

Did you take some pics of your install?

 

[93GreenLX]

It was previously internally regulated. My issue with the contradiction is that the directions that came for the alternator were for a 2G to 3G upgrade. Stock 2G is what like 75Amps or something around there. The smallest 3G upgrade that Pa-Performance offers is 130 Amps. The directions say to put eyelets on the stock power wires to attach to the back of the new alternator. The directions also say that If you are upgrading to a 130 or higher alternator then you must upgrade the power wire. Now logically thiking you MUST upgrade the power wire because a 3G upgrade will be at least 130 Amps. Now the only way that would not be a contradiction is if you still use the stock power wires plus the upgraded 4 gauge power wire. Are both sets(old and new) of power wires supposed to be used? If not why would the directions say to put eyelets on wires that the directions tell you to upgrade. Hope that makes sense

 

[Xaranthu]

Ok, from what I remember of my install. (I wish I took pics for an article)

I used an upgraded 4 gauge red power wire from the main line on the alt to the solenoid on the fire wall.

I cut the two wires (light green/red stripe) and (yellow with white stripe) off the regulator and coupled it to the new D pigtail for the internal regulator.

I connected the stator wire from the new D pigtail to the mail connector on the alt with a spade.

I cut the charging power wire that goes to the battery (black/orange) put a ring connector on it and bolted it to the charging post on the alt.

I found a 2G to 3G specific upgrade with pics and instructions here.

Z.

 

[93GreenLX]

Ok so you use both the stock black/orange wires AND the 4 Gauge wire..thats where I messed up. The directions said to upgrade to a 4 Gauge wire and I figured that if you are going to upgrade to something that you would use the better one not both. (I.E. If someone told you that they upgraded there exhaust to Flowmasters and 2 1/2 inch piping you wouldn't assume that they left the stock exhaust on also and inporporated both of them together.) Now another question. I didn't use the black/orange wires when installing my new alternator, I just cpped them off and pulled them aside. Could that cause the alternator to burn up? And if so why would it wait 6 weeks to do so. Also then when installing a second one it burned up immediately.

 

[Xaranthu]

I think the best thing for you to do is explain the way you did the install step by step in point form. Keep it brief but clear. One step = one sentence.

If it went like this...

1. Locate the point where the pair of MAIN wires (black/orange) join and become one.
2. Cut at intersection., leaving one MAIN wire.
3. Splice in new piece of 10 Gauge wire, solder, and use heat shrink tubing to insulate.
4. Test fit wire to alternator MAIN lug, trim as needed for good fit.
5. Crimp and solder on screw-terminal, use heat shrink tubing to insulate as needed.
6. Install screw lug on MAIN screw terminal. Once tight, slightly bend screw lug away from alternator housing.
7. Cut stator wire 2" from factory oval plug. This cut frees the factory 3-prong spade connector which can be discarded.
8. Splice in new stator connector, solder, use heat shrink to insulate.
9. Apply wire loom, plug in connectors, tie wrap as needed.

...and you still caboomed two alts, you shorted the case to +. Did you make sure there was no contact to the case of the alt by the main lug eyelet? That case is = to ground!

I was busy fixing a hatch hinge today and need to do door pins tomorrow. I will try my best to get some good shots of my stock setup, including wire paths. Mine is an 86, externally regulated, but the core wiring is the same.

Z.