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[v8only]

there are different roller bearing setups. the one above has wearable parts, and from what I heard, don't ride on the optimum part of the shaft

 

[SadbutTrue]

I'll try to get a pic when I get home. I need some heat shield wrap like is shown above (as I said, the cable is cooking a bit), but it looks identical to v8only's setup except it ducks into the shock tower roughly next to the #5 cylinder's exhaust port. If you look at his picture theres a brown spot of chipped paint/rust on the shock tower... my cable goes into the shock tower a few inches below that.

 

[67coupe]

I wrote the wrong thing. I'm using the Modern Driveline T-5 crossmember. Everything fits perfectly with it.

My fault, I confused RMP with FPA.

but it doesn't touch, and that's with triple layer protection. the 88308's and the 88300's won't work....unless you PULL the cable away with a zip tie. This is why I had the tube rerouted. you'll destroy the tube after a short while. I had a friend with the 88300/88308's and the ron morris clutch cable kit, and his cable hit on the headers too.

the reach of the pro 5.0 shifter for me is fine. Most would find it annoying though. You do have to reach, and a longer handle would be ideal, but it's not too bad.

no vibrations at all yet. I've done about 65-70 on the freeway. We'll see when I get my 8.8 in if I can still say no vibrations

Good to know about the shifter. I'll probably go with the CJ Pony Parts T5 handle.

 

[v8only]

I was talking with someone who said he unbolted the circular gold part from the rest of the t5, bolted the pro 5.0 shifter base to the trans, then lifted the trans up, bolted it down, THEN bolted the circular part of the pro 5.0 down. In this manner he was able to avoid cutting the tunnel.

in my case, I have a beat up x T code coupe...so I don't mind taking a cutoff wheel to my body

 

[67coupe]

I was talking with someone who said he unbolted the circular gold part from the rest of the t5, bolted the pro 5.0 shifter base to the trans, then lifted the trans up, bolted it down, THEN bolted the circular part of the pro 5.0 down. In this manner he was able to avoid cutting the tunnel.

in my case, I have a beat up x T code coupe...so I don't mind taking a cutoff wheel to my body

I think I have a C-code (2bbl 289). Mines a little beat up as well. Been in the family since 69 and driven often (close to 250K miles). It was my daily driver for 5 years to and from college. So, I'm not too worried about a little trimming around the shifter hole.

Thanks for the tip.

Here a quick shot. She's a 30 footer....LOL.

 

[grainboy]

All of my mods so far had been bolt on restmod stuff, except for the T5. It really hurt me to hack on my baby for the sake of overdrive, but all in all, it was well worth it. I had to remove about an inch of the shifter opening, on the front.

 

[SadbutTrue]

All of my mods so far had been bolt on restmod stuff, except for the T5. It really hurt me to hack on my baby for the sake of overdrive, but all in all, it was well worth it. I had to remove about an inch of the shifter opening, on the front.

You did? I don't remember having to do that, but it has been 2 years so I could just be forgetting....

 

[v8only]

that's sweet. I love the 67's..had one for a while, but the body was shot.

mine's a 30 footer too. get up close and it looks like poop

 

[2+2GT]

All of my mods so far had been bolt on restmod stuff, except for the T5. It really hurt me to hack on my baby for the sake of overdrive, but all in all, it was well worth it. I had to remove about an inch of the shifter opening, on the front.

Why? I have seen dozens of T5 installations in 65-73 Mustangs, NONE required cutting the floor.

 

[2+2GT]

there are different roller bearing setups. the one above has wearable parts, and from what I heard, don't ride on the optimum part of the shaft

Considering the original setup was thin nylon bushings on steel, the above setup is about 1000% better. Even the nylon bushings can last 100,000 miles, which means the roller kit will go 1,000,000.

 

[2+2GT]

Now I get it. You used an aftermarket shifter. The stock one fits.

 

[v8only]

my t5 shifter fit fine without cutting until I put in a pro 5.0 shifter

 

[zm830101]

my steeda tri ax fit without cutting in my 66. BUT, the front bolt holes were covered so i decided to trim them up so the shifter could be removed without dropping the trans.

 

[dcstang67]

You can get away without cutting the floor by installing the shifter before you install the transmission. The only thing that sucks about doing it this way is you wont be able to remove the shifter for any reason unless you remove the transmission. I chose to cut the floor in mine because I like to change the fluid and fill it through the shifter hole.