Quick auto to manual question (tried search)

[67coupe]

First, I've tried searching. Haven't really found any info on pedal compatibility.

I'm planning on converting my 67 coupe from a C4 to T5. I will use the Mustang Steve cable kit, T5 tranny and bell, crossmember, etc. My only question concerns pedals.

The car is a factory power brake (front disc) car.

Do I need a complete power brake pedal and clutch pedal assembly out of a 67?

Or do I just need a clutch pedal out of any 65-68?

My current pedal bracket has provisions for the clutch pedal...correct? I would just have to cut my current brake pedal down to fit the pedal pad for manuals???

Basically, can I just grab any early clutch pedal, sent it to Steve, and assembly it to my current pedal bracket?

 

[2+2GT]

First, I've tried searching. Haven't really found any info on pedal compatibility.

I'm planning on converting my 67 coupe from a C4 to T5. I will use the Mustang Steve cable kit, T5 tranny and bell, crossmember, etc.
I prefer the stock clutch linkage, but it's your call.

My only question concerns pedals.

The car is a factory power brake (front disc) car.

Do I need a complete power brake pedal and clutch pedal assembly out of a 67?
No. In fact, you could probably trim the steel plate in you auto pedal to work, or simply buy a manual trans-style power pedal to replace it.

Or do I just need a clutch pedal out of any 65-68?
67-68. Don't try a 67 pedal in a 68, they have less clearance on the column than the 68. The repro pedals are the 68, so they'll fit either year.

My current pedal bracket has provisions for the clutch pedal...correct? I would just have to cut my current brake pedal down to fit the pedal pad for manuals???
As I said above. If your bracket has the white metal eyes for the nylon bushing the clutch pedal shaft goes in, you're all set. If not, the steel repair kit will do the job.

Basically, can I just grab any early clutch pedal, sent it to Steve, and assembly it to my current pedal bracket?
Any 67-68 clutch pedal, used or repro, yeah.

 

[dcstang67]

Just pick up a new or used clutch pedal and the nylon bushings for it and it will slide right into your original pedal support.

 

[67coupe]

Thanks for the replies guys. I was in shell shock after looking at OEM assemblies on ebay. That's good news. I wasn't looking forward to paying $400 for pedals.

I plan on sending the pedal support to Steve for the bearing upgrade anyway.

Thanks again. :SNSign:

 

[v8only]

just make sure you trim the brake pedal, they're a bit wider for the auto cars.

I prefer the cable driven setup hands down over the original linkage. my mustang steve cable setup is so light, I can literally depress it with my hand, and with very little effort.

DO NOT use his suggested cable. He uses a fox length adj cable, which is too short to clear headers..it cannot be routed properly. I found through research and trial, that the 96-04 adjustable cable is a perfect bolt on fit with his quadrant and clears all the header tubes up top by a mile. He is aware of this, and I put it on his forums...see a picture below of the cable installed on my 66.

as well, have fun with the long tubes...the 88300 headers from hedman do NOT work....for budget headers, the only I've heard work are the hedman 88660 headers, which are 351 headers. they will work on a 289/302 but may hang lower.

I had a friend modify tube #5 and relocate it away from the bell housing cable mount.

If you haven't decided on headers yet, I HIGHLY suggest shorties.

 

[SadbutTrue]

just make sure you trim the brake pedal, they're a bit wider for the auto cars.

I prefer the cable driven setup hands down over the original linkage. my mustang steve cable setup is so light, I can literally depress it with my hand, and with very little effort.

DO NOT use his suggested cable. He uses a fox length adj cable, which is too short to clear headers..it cannot be routed properly. I found through research and trial, that the 96-04 adjustable cable is a perfect bolt on fit with his quadrant and clears all the header tubes up top by a mile. He is aware of this, and I put it on his forums...see a picture below of the cable installed on my 66.

as well, have fun with the long tubes...the 88300 headers from hedman do NOT work....for budget headers, the only I've heard work are the hedman 88660 headers, which are 351 headers. they will work on a 289/302 but may hang lower.

I had a friend modify tube #5 and relocate it away from the bell housing cable mount.

If you haven't decided on headers yet, I HIGHLY suggest shorties.

The shorter cable will work. I have a fox body length cable and simply routed it into the shock tower. Looks a little cleaner, though the headers did cook it a bit (but it still works and isn't going anywhere).

 

[v8only]

I'd love to see how you did this. I found with my hedman headers, that was 100% IMPOSSIBLE. No routing in the world would keep the cable from touching the header. Additionally, routing it into the towers can provide extra bends to the cable, increasing cable effort.

I'd love to see a picture..FYI, if your headers cooked the cable at all, then this means it's receiving too much heat, and will eventually fail. The heat is transmitting through the sheath, and melting the inner structure against the cable. Effort will increase slowly, and the cable will fail. I've been through this too many times.

 

[67coupe]

Knowing I don't have to buy the overpriced ebay junk, I'll probably spring for a repo brake pedal. Mine is bent anyway.

Thanks for the info concerning the 96-04 cable.

I haven't decided on headers yet. Any info on the FPA headers mentioned on Steve's website? Price? Fitment?

SadbutTrue,

Any pics of your setup?

 

[v8only]

fpa headers are around $500 +

FYI, mustang steve sells ready to go pedal assembly's that are cheaper than piecing them together.

I have to fix the hosting on my pictures, or I'd show you more...the above shot is the only one I have right now

 

[v8only]

fixed my picture hosting...

The above pic you can see the firewall adjuster and cable.

The below picture is how I had to modify the 88300 hedman headers. I had #5 tube relocated, and then used heat tape, a rubber hose, then spark plug insolater boot. It still does not tough the tubes and it's doing well. You can see the tube above that was reconstructed

Here is the longer 96+ cable next to the fox length cable. If you look closely, you can see how the fox cable hugs #5 tube up top, and just will not clear4

This is an original clutch pedal assembly I scored for $40!!!! it's been modified with the mustang steve quadrant and roller bearings

this is a picture with a crappy hurst short throw shifter. it cleared the tunnel without cutting anything

Here is how it sits now. I trimmed a tad off the right side of the tunnel, and a couple of inches out back for shifter clearance, and installed a pro 5.0 shifter. I have a perfect 6x4 hole, which I'll cover with a boot soon enough

 

[v8only]

Here is an undercarriage picture with the t5, and the trans x member.

the trans x member was a ****ty fit. I had to grind the hole in the x member quite a bit..as it wouldn't align with the frame holes on the 66. Once I opened the holes up, it worked perfectly. I've heard others with the same piece I have had the same troubles. I've "HEARD" that the ron morris x member works with no problems

you can also see the driveshaft in this pic. It's the stock c4 driveshaft. I had a shop shorten it 3/4 of an inch, rebalance it, and stuff new ujoints in it, then paint it. cost me $78. I've been hearing though that you may not have to shorten your stock driveshaft. Try fitting it first.

 

[golf4283]

The RMP one does fit perfect as that's what I have. I'm running Heddman headers on my 302 and honestly have no problem with the cable that comes with the kit. I'll check what Header numbers I have but I did the same as stated above and drilled a hole in the shock tower. No cable binding and no sharp bends. Clutch is pretty effortless.

 

[v8only]

you likely have the hedman 88660 headers...they're 351 headers but ron morris suggests their use with 289/302 cars because they will fit and clear.

You're going to have issues with them hanging lower to the ground thought. At $158 from summit...they may still be the best bet.

I personally won't drill holes through my shock towers...they have thousands of pounds of pressure going through them, and already are proned to fatigue and cracking issues and I don't want to make the problem worse by drilling through them

 

[golf4283]

I didn't drill into the shock tower. I drilled into the inner fender support just next to the hood hinges. My car's at the exhaust shop but I'll stop by after work and snap some pics. I definitely don't have the swap headers though. I think they were like 88600 or something. I'll check the number when I get home too to let you know. Everyone's car is different though. I have a monte carlo bar as well so that helps take some stress off of each tower.

 

[golf4283]

Actually they're the 88308 which are the HTC coated ones.

 

[67coupe]

I saw that Mustang Steve provides pedals, but he only listed 65-66. I will ask if 67 is available.

v8only,

That is a tight fit to your headers. The cable is holding up okay?

How's the reach to the pro 5.0 shifter?

How's the cross-member in terms of driveshaft angles? Any vibrations?

I'm also considering routing the cable through the shock tower. Would love to see pics if anyone has any.

Thanks again.

 

[67coupe]

The RMP one does fit perfect as that's what I have. I'm running Heddman headers on my 302 and honestly have no problem with the cable that comes with the kit. I'll check what Header numbers I have but I did the same as stated above and drilled a hole in the shock tower. No cable binding and no sharp bends. Clutch is pretty effortless.

I'm a little confused, are you using the RMP headers? What are they coated with?

Sounds like they fit well with the cable?

 

[golf4283]

I wrote the wrong thing. I'm using the Modern Driveline T-5 crossmember. Everything fits perfectly with it.

 

[v8only]

I saw that Mustang Steve provides pedals, but he only listed 65-66. I will ask if 67 is available.

v8only,

That is a tight fit to your headers. The cable is holding up okay?

How's the reach to the pro 5.0 shifter?

How's the cross-member in terms of driveshaft angles? Any vibrations?

I'm also considering routing the cable through the shock tower. Would love to see pics if anyone has any.

Thanks again.

but it doesn't touch, and that's with triple layer protection. the 88308's and the 88300's won't work....unless you PULL the cable away with a zip tie. This is why I had the tube rerouted. you'll destroy the tube after a short while. I had a friend with the 88300/88308's and the ron morris clutch cable kit, and his cable hit on the headers too.

the reach of the pro 5.0 shifter for me is fine. Most would find it annoying though. You do have to reach, and a longer handle would be ideal, but it's not too bad.

no vibrations at all yet. I've done about 65-70 on the freeway. We'll see when I get my 8.8 in if I can still say no vibrations

 

[2+2GT]

I plan on sending the pedal support to Steve for the bearing upgrade anyway.

The roller bearing clutch pedal kit can be installed in the car, although I'll admit it's easier on the bench, but it's not rocket science.