I wrote the wrong thing. I'm using the Modern Driveline T-5 crossmember. Everything fits perfectly with it.
but it doesn't touch, and that's with triple layer protection. the 88308's and the 88300's won't work....unless you PULL the cable away with a zip tie. This is why I had the tube rerouted. you'll destroy the tube after a short while. I had a friend with the 88300/88308's and the ron morris clutch cable kit, and his cable hit on the headers too.
the reach of the pro 5.0 shifter for me is fine. Most would find it annoying though. You do have to reach, and a longer handle would be ideal, but it's not too bad.
no vibrations at all yet. I've done about 65-70 on the freeway. We'll see when I get my 8.8 in if I can still say no vibrations
I was talking with someone who said he unbolted the circular gold part from the rest of the t5, bolted the pro 5.0 shifter base to the trans, then lifted the trans up, bolted it down, THEN bolted the circular part of the pro 5.0 down. In this manner he was able to avoid cutting the tunnel.
in my case, I have a beat up x T code coupe...so I don't mind taking a cutoff wheel to my body
All of my mods so far had been bolt on restmod stuff, except for the T5. It really hurt me to hack on my baby for the sake of overdrive, but all in all, it was well worth it. I had to remove about an inch of the shifter opening, on the front.
All of my mods so far had been bolt on restmod stuff, except for the T5. It really hurt me to hack on my baby for the sake of overdrive, but all in all, it was well worth it. I had to remove about an inch of the shifter opening, on the front.
there are different roller bearing setups. the one above has wearable parts, and from what I heard, don't ride on the optimum part of the shaft
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