No o-ringed heads, they are more a pita than anything on a street car.
You may want to dial the intake back one notch to the edelbrock rpm, the rpm is better for strokers or superchargers. With the II you will give up some low end, that may not make for the best street drving.
Add the 70mm tb and spacer,
New timing chain, and water pump. Don't re-use the old crap while you got it apart.
do yourself a favor and buy the heads from someone like camshaft innovations. because you will get the valvesprings you need, and itll have a valvejob and a handblend of the valvejob into the bowl. this will pick up flow and power.
as far as the intake and low end, that also depends on what cam is used. if it were mine id use a systemax if i HAD to use a longrunner. my JY shortblock NA project is getting a spyder.
86-93 WATER PUMP, VICTOR SERIES HIGH VOLUME, SMALL BLOCK FORD......... 160
85-95 TIMING CHAIN SET, 5.0/5.8L, MAGNUM DOUBLE ROLLER.......................... 40
Cylinder Head, Track Heat - Small Block Ford Aluminum, Non O-Ringed With Upgrade Spring .................................................................................................1320
First, i want to apologize, the performer rpm has been replaced by the rpm II, so there is no performer rpm, just the performer. I thought they added a new one (making 3), not replaced an old one.
So out of the two, i would get the rpm II.
I also agree with clement, if it's in your budget get the heads already valve jobbed.
Consider these guys Total Engine Airflow
You don't need them cnc'ed, all you need is a valve job, and bowl cleanup. By default they will also set the spring seat pressure.
Mine were done locally, but i have people i can trust within driving distance.
Good to go. Ill pick up the rpm2. Do these guys sell the heads ready to go and fabbed up? Or will I have to buy heads and send them to him to get fabbed?
Good to go. Ill pick up the rpm2. Do these guys sell the heads ready to go and fabbed up? Or will I have to buy heads and send them to him to get fabbed?