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Quick Intake Install Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Synned
  • Start date Start date Mar 25, 2007
S

Synned

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Mar 31, 2005
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Philly
Mar 25, 2007
#1
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #1
So I'm about to start the intake swap...
I have:
Explorer Upper (Internal EGR) (Getting powdercoated a sick black)
GT40 Lower
Gaskets
Upper to Lower bolts

Ill prob jump on here a couple times in between to ask questions...
My first question
I've read what you have to do with the distributer before you take it out, but I just read (I think from jrickter (sp) that you should crank the engine to #1 TDC before you remove it.
If I just mark where it is in reference to the block, and mark the rotor in relation to the dist thats fine right?
 

4G-KDMP

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Mar 25, 2007
#2
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #2
nothing wrong with reference marks to reinstall the dizzy.
 
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Synned

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Mar 31, 2005
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Philly
Mar 25, 2007
#3
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #3
4G-KDMP said:
nothing wrong with reference marks to reinstall the dizzy.
Click to expand...

Okay, so I guess getting the engine at TDC is just another way of doing it?

THanks
 
C

criticman

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Mar 25, 2007
#4
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #4
Yeah, getting it to TDC means you know for certain where it is when it comes out and where it should be when putting it back in.

Marking it works too.

Just be careful. When installing my intake, I marked it but somehow it got moved enough to make things way off. This required getting it to TDC and then reinstalling the dizzy to get things running solid again.
 
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Synned

took tubgirl on a date and got banned
Mar 31, 2005
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Philly
Mar 25, 2007
#5
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #5
criticman said:
Yeah, getting it to TDC means you know for certain where it is when it comes out and where it should be when putting it back in.

Marking it works too.

Just be careful. When installing my intake, I marked it but somehow it got moved enough to make things way off. This required getting it to TDC and then reinstalling the dizzy to get things running solid again.
Click to expand...

Got it..thanks
 

jrichker

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#6
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #6
You will need a timing light to do the final ignition timing. There is very little chance you will get exactly 14 degrees without using a timing light.

Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back in when you finish.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
 

ALMOST STOCK

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#7
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #7
As long as the engine doesn't rotate any from when you pull the Dist to when you reinstall the Dist ( and it shouldn't) you can just mark a spot as a refrence point.
However if the engine rotates at all you better follow jrichker instructions to make your life liveable.
 

powertrax91

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#8
  • Mar 25, 2007
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you don't have to take out the distributor, you could work around it... I did
 

4G-KDMP

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Mar 26, 2007
#9
  • Mar 26, 2007
  • #9
with everything going on like trying to line everything else up making sure none of the gaskets move when your installing the lower why would you want to work around the dizzy if you can get it out of the way by pulling it and the reinstalling it in the same locatio when your finished dealing with all the other things?
 

Shakerhood

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#10
  • Mar 26, 2007
  • #10
powertrax91 said:
you don't have to take out the distributor, you could work around it... I did
Click to expand...


My Friend did his that way too.
 
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