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Quick question thats been answered -

  • Thread starter Thread starter Paul Perreca
  • Start date Start date Mar 31, 2005
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NKau

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Mar 31, 2005
#21
  • Mar 31, 2005
  • #21
shttygtstang said:
paul is your car is sd that would make a differnce ?
Click to expand...

Good call. He has an '88 listed in his profile, so if it's not a california car, or not converted, it's SD.
With SD from what I understand, the computers don't tolerate much in the way of cams. Many people do have good luck running e-cams with the SD computers though.
Paul, with an e-cam or TF stage 1, you will notice better performance from about 3500 rpm on up, it will pull harder up past 5,500 rpm. You will lose a bit of performance below 1500 rpm though; in my case, I can't light up street tires with the flick of my right foot off-idle like I could with my old stock cammed '89 with 3.55's and a 5-speed. The stock cammed '89 was a much funner car to drive on the street, and would likely run right with my notch in the 1/4 given that each had the performer or cobra intake.
If you think you will be getting heads in the near future, then I would probably just go ahead and do the cam, but pay close attention to what people recommend for speed density.
 

Paul Perreca

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#22
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so besides a cam, and besides heads, keeping in mind they will most likely be remaining stock for now, what can i do while the upper and lower intake is off to make more power - This is more of a suitable question
Paul Perreca
 

25thmustang

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Sep 5, 2003
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#23
  • Mar 31, 2005
  • #23
I have a set of valves in my unported stock heads, and with the valve job, it goes alright... Stock heads arent bad if your willing to work with them.
 

shttygtstang

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#24
  • Mar 31, 2005
  • #24
NKau said:
Good call. He has an '88 listed in his profile, so if it's not a california car, or not converted, it's SD.
With SD from what I understand, the computers don't tolerate much in the way of cams. Many people do have good luck running e-cams with the SD computers though.
Paul, with an e-cam or TF stage 1, you will notice better performance from about 3500 rpm on up, it will pull harder up past 5,500 rpm. You will lose a bit of performance below 1500 rpm though; in my case, I can't light up street tires with the flick of my right foot off-idle like I could with my old stock cammed '89 with 3.55's and a 5-speed. The stock cammed '89 was a much funner car to drive on the street, and would likely run right with my notch in the 1/4 given that each had the performer or cobra intake.
If you think you will be getting heads in the near future, then I would probably just go ahead and do the cam, but pay close attention to what people recommend for speed density.
Click to expand...

no i know because i was gunna sell him my maf setup fer 130 +sh and my 80mm c&l fer 100 . but he has the 70mm tb and the stock maf is 55mm it would be a bottle neck to him. AND i guess he dosent have the funds fer the 80mm
i was hopping he wasnt trying to through a maf cam in a sd car he have so many problems
 

shttygtstang

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#25
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  • #25
Paul Perreca said:
so besides a cam, and besides heads, keeping in mind they will most likely be remaining stock for now, what can i do while the upper and lower intake is off to make more power - This is more of a suitable question
Paul Perreca
Click to expand...


how much do ya have to spend ? a used sc ?
 

Paul Perreca

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#26
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is this the car you are running 12.9's w/? I just wanna run high 13's, low 14's - what exactly have you done to your car??? - 25thmustang - valves and ..... what bolt ons??
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
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#27
  • Mar 31, 2005
  • #27
25thmustang said:
I have a set of valves in my unported stock heads, and with the valve job, it goes alright... Stock heads arent bad if your willing to work with them.
Click to expand...


I agree, but this can get as expensive as aluminum heads if you're not careful. I've got some '69 351W heads going on this summer that a guy had built....he ended up investing almost enough to buy aluminum heads. They've got 1.94/1.60 valves and are ported/polished to heck and back.
 

25thmustang

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Mar 31, 2005
#28
  • Mar 31, 2005
  • #28
Stock bottem end, stock heads with valves (1.84/1.54) and 1.7 rockers, Stock cam, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 75mm MAF, CAI, pulleys, Long tubes, prochamber, catback, 3.73s, clutch, shifter, and things like sway bar gone and such.

It ran a 12.9 on radials and 12.5 on slicks. As far as low 14s high 13s, a stock motor with bolt ons should do that no problem.
 

shttygtstang

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#29
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paul you can go 13s with gears and the right traction combo .
 

NKau

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#30
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Paul, I don't see gears listed in your sig............

If you are just looking to run low 14's/high 13's you don't have much to do. Get gears, and work on your suspension. You're actually better off staying speed density with a bigger TB if you are going to keep the stock heads. You're stock SD cam is also known for being a bit more aggressive than the '89+ MAF cams too
I wouldn't worry about moving to mass air until you change heads, or decide to go with a power adder.
 

25thmustang

Mustang Master
Sep 5, 2003
2,021
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Montgomery, NY
Mar 31, 2005
#31
  • Mar 31, 2005
  • #31
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
I agree, but this can get as expensive as aluminum heads if you're not careful. I've got some '69 351W heads going on this summer that a guy had built....he ended up investing almost enough to buy aluminum heads. They've got 1.94/1.60 valves and are ported/polished to heck and back.
Click to expand...

Thats why I only have about $600-700 in mine, which included all new parts (valves, springs, seals, retainers, tec...). I havent ported them (yet) but even after that Im looking at about $1000. Sure its what a set of new aluminum TFS heads have, but these match my combo a lot better than TFS's out of the box!
 

Paul Perreca

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oh yea i forgot it had 3.55's when i was writing the sig real quick, i had to remake it sorrry lol
 

Paul Perreca

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Yea maybe I will throw the new 70mm and Cobra upper and lower on, and just replace the lifters w/ roller lifters for the time being, (replace lifters cuz i have chrome valve covers to go on, and when the old ones come off is when you can pull the **** up and cahnge the lifters - what do you think this combo will run ?
 

NKau

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#34
  • Mar 31, 2005
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Paul Perreca said:
oh yea i forgot it had 3.55's when i was writing the sig real quick, i had to remake it sorrry lol
Click to expand...

Good deal. With that being done, I'd think about putting some money into weld-in subframe connectors to firm up your chassis, some lower control arms (or box your factory lowers). You have a short-shifter on the t-5 yet?
 

Paul Perreca

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i was worried cuz i ran a 15.3 at the track the other night - my 60 ft times were 2.26 and 2.11 - and my friends were whippin my ass - but the car feels alot faster than that - i def have an exhaust leak at the headers, and that lifter problem, but will that make a big difference?
 

NKau

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#36
  • Mar 31, 2005
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Paul Perreca said:
what do you think this combo will run ?
Click to expand...

Depends totally on driver, and how strong your engine still is. Only one way to find out.........
 

Paul Perreca

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yes its got a shorthrow, but its tall
 

NKau

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#38
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Paul Perreca said:
i was worried cuz i ran a 15.3 at the track the other night - my 60 ft times were 2.26 and 2.11 - and my friends were whippin my ass - but the car feels alot faster than that - i def have an exhaust leak at the headers, and that lifter problem, but will that make a big difference?
Click to expand...

That's a bit disconcerting, LOL. Those 60 ft. times aren't all that bad. What kind of trap speeds did you have?
 

Paul Perreca

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#39
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my time slip:
r/t:.011
60':2.26
330:6.325
1/8:9.77
MPH: 71.22
990: 12.726
1/4: 15.3
MPH: 87.35
HELP
 

Paul Perreca

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now that i look at this time slip, it looks like im either shifting at the wrong rpms, or i have no power when it gets out of 2nd gear or something - think the exhaust leak has anything to do w/ it??
 
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