Quick question thats been answered -

shttygtstang said:
paul is your car is sd that would make a differnce ?

Good call. He has an '88 listed in his profile, so if it's not a california car, or not converted, it's SD.
With SD from what I understand, the computers don't tolerate much in the way of cams. Many people do have good luck running e-cams with the SD computers though.
Paul, with an e-cam or TF stage 1, you will notice better performance from about 3500 rpm on up, it will pull harder up past 5,500 rpm. You will lose a bit of performance below 1500 rpm though; in my case, I can't light up street tires with the flick of my right foot off-idle like I could with my old stock cammed '89 with 3.55's and a 5-speed. The stock cammed '89 was a much funner car to drive on the street, and would likely run right with my notch in the 1/4 given that each had the performer or cobra intake.
If you think you will be getting heads in the near future, then I would probably just go ahead and do the cam, but pay close attention to what people recommend for speed density.
 
so besides a cam, and besides heads, keeping in mind they will most likely be remaining stock for now, what can i do while the upper and lower intake is off to make more power - This is more of a suitable question
Paul Perreca
 
NKau said:
Good call. He has an '88 listed in his profile, so if it's not a california car, or not converted, it's SD.
With SD from what I understand, the computers don't tolerate much in the way of cams. Many people do have good luck running e-cams with the SD computers though.
Paul, with an e-cam or TF stage 1, you will notice better performance from about 3500 rpm on up, it will pull harder up past 5,500 rpm. You will lose a bit of performance below 1500 rpm though; in my case, I can't light up street tires with the flick of my right foot off-idle like I could with my old stock cammed '89 with 3.55's and a 5-speed. The stock cammed '89 was a much funner car to drive on the street, and would likely run right with my notch in the 1/4 given that each had the performer or cobra intake.
If you think you will be getting heads in the near future, then I would probably just go ahead and do the cam, but pay close attention to what people recommend for speed density.

no i know because i was gunna sell him my maf setup fer 130 +sh and my 80mm c&l fer 100 . but he has the 70mm tb and the stock maf is 55mm it would be a bottle neck to him. AND i guess he dosent have the funds fer the 80mm
i was hopping he wasnt trying to through a maf cam in a sd car he have so many problems
 
Paul Perreca said:
so besides a cam, and besides heads, keeping in mind they will most likely be remaining stock for now, what can i do while the upper and lower intake is off to make more power - This is more of a suitable question
Paul Perreca


how much do ya have to spend ? a used sc ?
 
25thmustang said:
I have a set of valves in my unported stock heads, and with the valve job, it goes alright... Stock heads arent bad if your willing to work with them.


I agree, but this can get as expensive as aluminum heads if you're not careful. I've got some '69 351W heads going on this summer that a guy had built....he ended up investing almost enough to buy aluminum heads. They've got 1.94/1.60 valves and are ported/polished to heck and back.
 
Stock bottem end, stock heads with valves (1.84/1.54) and 1.7 rockers, Stock cam, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 75mm MAF, CAI, pulleys, Long tubes, prochamber, catback, 3.73s, clutch, shifter, and things like sway bar gone and such.

It ran a 12.9 on radials and 12.5 on slicks. As far as low 14s high 13s, a stock motor with bolt ons should do that no problem.
 
Paul, I don't see gears listed in your sig............

If you are just looking to run low 14's/high 13's you don't have much to do. Get gears, and work on your suspension. You're actually better off staying speed density with a bigger TB if you are going to keep the stock heads. You're stock SD cam is also known for being a bit more aggressive than the '89+ MAF cams too ;)
I wouldn't worry about moving to mass air until you change heads, or decide to go with a power adder.
 
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
I agree, but this can get as expensive as aluminum heads if you're not careful. I've got some '69 351W heads going on this summer that a guy had built....he ended up investing almost enough to buy aluminum heads. They've got 1.94/1.60 valves and are ported/polished to heck and back.

Thats why I only have about $600-700 in mine, which included all new parts (valves, springs, seals, retainers, tec...). I havent ported them (yet) but even after that Im looking at about $1000. Sure its what a set of new aluminum TFS heads have, but these match my combo a lot better than TFS's out of the box!
 
Yea maybe I will throw the new 70mm and Cobra upper and lower on, and just replace the lifters w/ roller lifters for the time being, (replace lifters cuz i have chrome valve covers to go on, and when the old ones come off is when you can pull the **** up and cahnge the lifters - what do you think this combo will run ?
 
Paul Perreca said:
oh yea i forgot it had 3.55's when i was writing the sig real quick, i had to remake it sorrry lol

Good deal. With that being done, I'd think about putting some money into weld-in subframe connectors to firm up your chassis, some lower control arms (or box your factory lowers). You have a short-shifter on the t-5 yet?
 
i was worried cuz i ran a 15.3 at the track the other night - my 60 ft times were 2.26 and 2.11 - and my friends were whippin my ass - but the car feels alot faster than that - i def have an exhaust leak at the headers, and that lifter problem, but will that make a big difference?
 
Paul Perreca said:
i was worried cuz i ran a 15.3 at the track the other night - my 60 ft times were 2.26 and 2.11 - and my friends were whippin my ass - but the car feels alot faster than that - i def have an exhaust leak at the headers, and that lifter problem, but will that make a big difference?

That's a bit disconcerting, LOL. Those 60 ft. times aren't all that bad. What kind of trap speeds did you have?
 
now that i look at this time slip, it looks like im either shifting at the wrong rpms, or i have no power when it gets out of 2nd gear or something - think the exhaust leak has anything to do w/ it??