Quote-UnQuote BEST CAI?

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I don't think you'll get a majority vote on this one. Everyone has their reasons for choosing what they bought. You're better off starting a thread asking why people chose the CAI they have.

I got the K&N FIPK because it puts the filter in the engine bay, within clear view. I don't want to crawl on my back and look up a fender to see if the filter needs cleaning. Screw that 50,000 mile cleaning interval or whatever the manufacturer recommends. I clean it when it looks like it needs cleaning, no matter how many miles it has been since the last cleaning.

You'll hear arguments about cooler air in the fender vs. hot air in the engine bay. Straight shot vs. bends in the tube. I don't know. All the magazine reviews I've seen I think claim under 10 rwhp, so the difference between each CAI has to be in the 0-5 rwhp range. To me, it's not worth a whole lot so I went with what looked nice and what was easy to get to.
 
demolet here.... but the best in my opinion is the Kenne bell big bore cold air fender kit... from cone filter to TB everything is replaced... though the maf is tuned to 42lb injectors.... it'dneed to be retuned... my fave... just costly. so i went demolet full length.
 
propellerhead said:
I don't think you'll get a majority vote on this one. Everyone has their reasons for choosing what they bought. You're better off starting a thread asking why people chose the CAI they have.

I got the K&N FIPK because it puts the filter in the engine bay, within clear view. I don't want to crawl on my back and look up a fender to see if the filter needs cleaning. Screw that 50,000 mile cleaning interval or whatever the manufacturer recommends. I clean it when it looks like it needs cleaning, no matter how many miles it has been since the last cleaning.

You'll hear arguments about cooler air in the fender vs. hot air in the engine bay. Straight shot vs. bends in the tube. I don't know. All the magazine reviews I've seen I think claim under 10 rwhp, so the difference between each CAI has to be in the 0-5 rwhp range. To me, it's not worth a whole lot so I went with what looked nice and what was easy to get to.


^Says it all. There is not one CAI that it going to be a huge difference over another, especially that you will notice a diffence. I went with the K&N FIPK because it was located in the engine and I liked the fact the it came with a black plastic tube.(I didn't want a fancy blingage going on under the hood). I also heard a lot of peple like the JLT. but its all personal preference. Id say get which one you like the best.
 
I had a Demolet Gen I on my Cobra. Then I went to a Demolet Gen II with re-clocked MAF. Then I ditched the DC for a K&N FIPK. I still recommend the JLT as being one of the least expensive CAI's with the best results.

On a N/A car though a K&N drop in is probably the best bang for the $$.

U.M.
 
yah but that filter is such a pain to get to... plus i like hearing intake pulses...

so far im liking the look and idea of th JLT... and for the fender vs engine bay debate... i know ALL about it. the Fiero comes w/ a factory cold air intake that is sealed to a vent on the body work... can get much colder than that and im assuming that the air under a mustangs hood is pretty close to the temps available in a fiero's engine bay so im sayin the fendermount is better... i dont much care if its difficult to install as it took me 2 1/2 hours to install the one in my fiero and i had to take off a tire :)
 
RoadconeTuning said:
yah but that filter is such a pain to get to... plus i like hearing intake pulses...

so far im liking the look and idea of th JLT... and for the fender vs engine bay debate... i know ALL about it. the Fiero comes w/ a factory cold air intake that is sealed to a vent on the body work... can get much colder than that and im assuming that the air under a mustangs hood is pretty close to the temps available in a fiero's engine bay so im sayin the fendermount is better... i dont much care if its difficult to install as it took me 2 1/2 hours to install the one in my fiero and i had to take off a tire :)
The in-fender mount does suck in cooler air than an open element located under the hood as long as the car is NOT MOVING. Once the car is at or above 15MPH the IAT reads the same temp (or within 1 or 2 degrees of ambient) regardless of whether it's an in fender or under hood unit!

If you're worried about sucking in the coldest air possible while idling in traffic, please by all means go through the trouble and hassle of installing and maintaining an in fender CAI. Personally that 1 or 2 degrees difference at speed is not worth the trouble in my book. This is one of the reasons I switched from a DC to a FIPK. It was always a major PITA inspecting, removing, cleaning, and then re-installing the in-fender unit.

My 2 cents.

U.M.
 
Torinalth said:
nothing, tw screws to remove the plastic cover, pull it back, remove the two screws attaching it to the tube in the hood area, pull out. i dont see the big deal. but thats me.

Torinalth
Please explain how you're able to pull that big conical filter through the small hole in the engine bay? I always had to remove the filter from the tube first. This had to be done by pulling back the plastic inner fender lining from under the car in front of the wheel. Then to get the damn thing back on it sometimes took two people! One to hold the filter/tube in place while the other screwed the clamp tight. Of course you had to be laying on your back on the ground to do this, it also helps if you have little childlike hands and girlie sized arms, or were a contortionist of some type.

U.M.
 
RoadconeTuning said:
what all is required to get to the fenderwell unit?
Buy two inside/outside thermometers. The one with the sensor you place outside your house and the display unit is inside. Run one in the fender and the other behind the headlight. Drive around like normal. Write down both temps every minute. You'll find that they are within 1-2 degrees once you are moving. Trust me. I did this test myself.

That 1-2 degrees equates to a fraction of a horsepower if we assume 10 degrees IAT = 1 hp.

Like I said, it really boils down to price, appearance and convenience.
 
Uncle Meat said:
Please explain how you're able to pull that big conical filter through the small hole in the engine bay? I always had to remove the filter from the tube first. This had to be done by pulling back the plastic inner fender lining from under the car in front of the wheel. Then to get the damn thing back on it sometimes took two people! One to hold the filter/tube in place while the other screwed the clamp tight. Of course you had to be laying on your back on the ground to do this, it also helps if you have little childlike hands and girlie sized arms, or were a contortionist of some type.

U.M.

turn the wheel to the far left, pull back the plastic, undo the two screws reach into the well (i went in right along the wheels center), jiggle it and turn (i turned counter clockwise, was easier then pulling towards me), and it popped off. with the wheel turned i had no problem getting it out. getting it back on was interesting, had to use a flashlight to make sure it was going on strait, but still didnt take much time... dunno, i didnt find it hard

Torinalth
 
RoadconeTuning said:
so its fairly easy and most people are just lazy... ok :)
Yup! Very easy... anytime you want to check and see if your filter is dirty, or if it has fallen off and you're now sucking dirt & dust into the motor all you have to do is remove part of the inner fender well and either remove the filter or use a flashlight to illuminate the area where the filter is located. Me, I prefer the 3 second open the hood and look at the filter method myself. :nice: Yep... I'm lazy all-right.

You go right ahead and pay that extra money for the in fender unit, go through the trouble of installing and maintaining it. It's really worth the .076 RWHP gain. :rolleyes:

U.M.