R these reasons it wont start?

JerryDaugherty said:

OK I have this thing done and cranking but it wont start...
I dont have the o2 sensors pluggind in (raw headers)
I have no gas in tank I think... but I have fuel comming out of fuel rail when i pull an injector
I have a fuel leak on on of the seals on the injector where it sits into the rail
IDK wut else to check or could these be probs? IDK i need some help here this is my first engine swap.. Or yeah... the other day it started for a second but then died cuz i had a prob with the head gasket and water was comming out now i got new head gasgets no leaks and wont turn over..WTF

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o2s are ignored untill open loop. If SOME fuel is comming out of the injector, it might be 1# or 40#. Find a friend that has a fuel pressure gague.

JerryDaugherty said:

i got one.. is there supposed to be fp when it is trying to crank? or just after it has started... and i think i have just answered my question i bet that sounded like the dumbest thing yuo have ever heared?

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YEP. And i just realized... THe o2s are ignored untill CLOSE loop not open like I said.


Shoot again if you like.

JerryDaugherty said:

i got one.. is there supposed to be fp when it is trying to crank? or just after it has started... and i think i have just answered my question i bet that sounded like the dumbest thing yuo have ever heared?

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Yes there is. That is why the pump primes for 3-5 seconds when you turn the key to on. Mike is spot on - I dont know how low you can go, but some fords are really finicky with FP (stangs dont seem to be like that. I think I am thinking of some Tauruses).

If you had clean plugs, you can see if they are wet now.

Check your fp and go from there. And I would put some fuel in the tank - you can kill off your pump in short order with low or no fuel.

Mike is right - input from O2's is not used until closed loop. This normally takes 30-120 seconds with HEGO's.

Good luck.

JerryDaugherty said:

thanks a ton guys also i just put brand new plugs in the motor is new so they wil be wet for rich and white for lean?

also i put in a new 190 fp and i can barely here the ****ing thing prime my stock one was way louder? is that having no fuel?

and i WAS or WASNT right about it supposed to be FP when cranking.. sorry im super tired working on this thing and have a hard time concentrating i jutst dont wanna back track no more

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on the plugs:
Wet = fuel is being squirted into the hole. Since the motor does not catch, the plugs are wet/fouled. This atleast lets you know fuel is making it in there in some capacity.

Normally pumps are louder when there is no fuel. It seems to be a crap-shoot as to whether a new pump will be noisy or quiet. Quiet is better than noisy IMHO though (they tend to get loud as they get old).

You should have 30+ PSI of fuel pressure during cranking. You really should have 30 PSI after it primes, before you even try to crank the motor.

If you start doing fuel pump diagnostics, you can jump the pump with the self test connector - by jumping the wire, you connect ground to the control side of the FP relay (where the puter would normally modulate the ground during priming, etc).

Good luck.

C'mon dont be so hard on yourself - it is easy to do when tired. You know what you are doing.

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.) Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
E.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer

See the following links for wiring diagrams...

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-98 model cars


2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay. The fuse links live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
E.) No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT.

That whole part with the dizzy being randomly stabbed in might have something to do with it.

I would follow JRichker's write up on finding TDC and stabbing the dizzy. or atleast get a timing light on it and get it set to 10* (for now).

Good luck.

You can actually turn the dizzy and crank the motor by yourself, but having an assistant is safer.

I hear you about the lack of tools. But sometimes you just need a tool. A parts store might loan out a timing light, or a friend might have one. You really should get it to idle and run decently w/o a light, but it helps fine tune it.

Do note that if you tossed the dizzy in 180* out (on the exhaust stroke, which will push air out the spark plug hole) the car can idle like poo (but will idle).

One thing - You dont have a HO firing order anymore? I am not the one to ask, but it seems to me that your injector timing would be off now too.

Good luck Jerry.

no, you don't have to get a new computer, you can still use the H.O. puter you have, but you'll either have to re-pin four of the wires on the puter harness connector, or-if they are still available, you can buy pigtail adapters which connect in series with your injector harness and changes the injector "firing" order that way...re-pinning the connector though will keep you from having to use the pigtails though.

I went to www.fordfuelinjection.com to get the wiring diagrams, and repinning schematic, should you choose to do it that way. you only have to swap four wires around, the worst part is pulling the wires from the connector without breaking the little clasps that hold the pins into the connector itself

good luck!

real quick...the dizzy spins the same direction in H.O. vs non H.O. all sb Fords rotate ccw, if you find one that doesn't-let us all know...