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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Radiator Core Support

  • Thread starter Thread starter jimrstang
  • Start date Start date Sep 13, 2006

jimrstang

New Member
May 9, 2006
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0
Sep 13, 2006
#1
  • Sep 13, 2006
  • #1
I was hoping I could get come guidance on this site. I recently purchased an 85 GT hatchback, that has the bottom of the Radiator Core Support cut out. Would this hurt the support stability of the front end if it was not fixed.
and if it wasn't fixed, what can I mount the Radiator to if it doesn't have anything to sit on.
thanks
Jim
 
8

86bluecobra

Advanced Member
Dec 20, 2004
4,265
12
69
B.C. Canada
Sep 13, 2006
#2
  • Sep 13, 2006
  • #2
I would say yes on the hurt the stability issue. Perhaps you can get the car to a welder fabricator and they can make a piece to fit in there.
 

jimrstang

New Member
May 9, 2006
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Sep 14, 2006
#3
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #3
thanks for the reply. I had thought about getting maybe a piece of roll bar tubing welded in there in place of the bottom. Something that would have some strength, even more so than the actuall support. jim
 

Zero_chance

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,243
7
59
Maricopa, AZ
Sep 14, 2006
#4
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #4
So does the car currently have a radiator jamboozled in there somehow or did you buy a rolling chassis or something? My car went off road thanks to a lovely lady in my life and pushed the core support way back. Im currently trying to think of a way to get it back to normal so let us know what you end up doing. Replacing the whole support seems to be very time consuming with all the spot welds but it might be the only option to keep its integrity.
 

jimrstang

New Member
May 9, 2006
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Sep 14, 2006
#5
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #5
i bought it as a rolling chassis, so there is no radiator currently in it.
I think the only way to do it properly, is just to replace the whole support. guess i just need to get into it, and have at it, and hope for the best.
 

Zero_chance

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,243
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59
Maricopa, AZ
Sep 14, 2006
#6
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #6
Yeah see I had to replace my radiator after the accident and was lucky enough to be able to wedge the new one in there and have it sit low enough to clear my hood. Had to ditch the shroud unfortunately and the overflow is tie strapped down. It got me back on the road but its been about a year now and Id like to start geting her back to her former glory. I bought the car to work on and then when I got accepted to a college, I started using it for a daily driver/commuter back and forth to school every day. Now Im probably geting into an Explorer sport so if I can actually find a place to put her away Im gonna slowly sink some money into her. Sucks not having a garage and having a driveway thats a 45 degree angle... Let me know how it goes. Ive been trying to find some writeups about it but havent had much luck. Not sure if its something I could tackle myself or leave to the body pros.
 

Zero_chance

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,243
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59
Maricopa, AZ
Sep 14, 2006
#7
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #7
I actually found a decent write up with pics and Im starting to think that it wont be that bad of a job, just time consuming. Tools and welders wont be a problem, I just need to find a place to do it. Itd be nice to get it done over the winter instead of having to wait till next spring and having the car be disabled all summer.
 

jimrstang

New Member
May 9, 2006
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Sep 18, 2006
#8
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #8
I actually started on it this weekend, and spent about 8 hours doing the removal. I have the old core out now....just need to order the new one, and fit it in.
The job was not that bad....just time consuming.....a lot of spot welds to drill out....but that is the majority of the work, then you just have to seperate the panels from the left and right side supports. then once you have the core support out, the top section where the hood latch connects, has to be removed from the support as well.....
where was the write up that you found?? can you send a link?
 

Zero_chance

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,243
7
59
Maricopa, AZ
Sep 18, 2006
#9
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #9
Its for an older style stang but I figured the general process is about the same. Where are you ordering yours from? I remember a while back 5.0 resto used to have them for sale as well as the inner fender aprons and all that but I dont think they do anymore. Also, is it something that you think requires complete removal of the engine (your lucky yours is already out!) or could I get by just taking off things as I need space? Im not sure how far back it goes and all that.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projectbuild/mump_0004_1966_ford_mustang_hardtop/
 

jimrstang

New Member
May 9, 2006
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0
Sep 20, 2006
#10
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #10
yea...i had found that write up also....its basically the same....the support is just different shaped.
Im not sure where im going to buy it yet....the best price I have found is 130.00......but everyone wants about 120.00 to ship it....so Im looking at 250.00 for the support.
Ive also tried the stealer....but they say it was discontinued 2 years ago. Also, tried summit, but they cant get it.
If you find any cheaper...let me know.
thanks
jim
 

Zero_chance

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,243
7
59
Maricopa, AZ
Sep 20, 2006
#11
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #11
I found a place that has them for 140 shipped but Im not sure if theyre for your year. Theyre advertised for 87 - 89 and yours is an 85. Im not sure myself if theres a diff since theyre more or less the same through out the mid to late 80s. www.bestdealcarparts.com I dont have time to check myself but they might have what you need.
 
F

fiveohGT

New Member
Jun 22, 2004
353
1
0
Fairfax Virginia
Sep 20, 2006
#12
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #12
Oh man i just did this the summer before last. I got in a car accident and had to replace my entire front end including rad. core support, front bumper, hood, 1 fender, radiator, fans, and a/c. I ordered mine from 50resto and got a fluidyne radiator, 2 electric fans, and a new hood and everything. MAKE SURE the core support is lined up PERFECT before welding. its a damn bitch
 
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