My question is about a random stall scenario. This happens more so while warming up idle but it has happened driving down the road. No acting up before hand, just quits like you shut it off. Its had this for a while and I am getting knee deep in it now.
I am not completely sure what wire does what as for ignition, but here are my checks via Jrichker write ups thus far.
IDM wiring 21.7k ohms (signal back to ecu that coil is firing?)
PIP wiring .25 ohms (tells ECU it can fire coil and injectors?)
SPOUT wiring .40 ohms
TFI to pin 16) .25 ohms
SPOUT to ground OL open (>100,000 ohms) assuming meaning its not grounded.
I ran the car at idle forever Friday with zero stalls as I used my new code reader. It had an 18 constant memory code in it, I've never checked or dumped codes until this day. I cleared the codes. Rechecked to be sure it cleared them and it did.
I went back and ran the car Saturday and as it was warming up it stalled. It normally has a hard time cranking back up but sometimes it cranks and sometimes it doesn't. This time I let it sit long enough to put a noid light in and see if my PIP was sending a signal and it cranked straight back up (hard to troubleshoot being so random). Shut it back off and pulled the codes again and 18 c was back.
I removed the ECU relay from above the computer thinking if it was flakey it could be dropping out computer power. I bought an autozone relay duralast #19911 which is a 5 terminal replacement. I set my ford relay on the bench and applied 12v through the coil and had my meter across terminals 3/4 and read closed circuit, I would hold that several minutes and open/close it, hoping it may open.
Tested ford and duralast relays and both worked the same. Not sure if higher current flow through terminals 3/4 contact would potentially cause a different result, but it never dropped out.
I'll probably stick the new one in anyways. The ford measured 1.5m ohms across the coil and new one 84 ohms. Not sure if the ford has tighter/more coils or if that's a sign of a problem. Couldn't tell any working difference on bench.
My distributor is a MSD pro billet #8456 that's a solid 18 years old, including the TFI module that came on the distributor.
I had autozone test my TFI several times and they said it was good (still may have a random issue causing it to blip a signal?)
My ECU ground close to the starter solenoid looks good. I ordered a new MSD coil and TFI that are here now, I really wanted to prove a bad part before throwing money/parts at it.
Computer, EEC relay and Battery is out of the car so I can make whatever non power checks I need to make.
Hard to troubleshoot a random occurrence.
No wiring ever hacked, Bennett 306, Vortech supercharged, MSD 6AL/Pro distributor/Street fighter coil, 1992 LX 5.0
Any help would be great. At this point I'll have to start throwing parts at it but still wont trust it.
I am not completely sure what wire does what as for ignition, but here are my checks via Jrichker write ups thus far.
IDM wiring 21.7k ohms (signal back to ecu that coil is firing?)
PIP wiring .25 ohms (tells ECU it can fire coil and injectors?)
SPOUT wiring .40 ohms
TFI to pin 16) .25 ohms
SPOUT to ground OL open (>100,000 ohms) assuming meaning its not grounded.
I ran the car at idle forever Friday with zero stalls as I used my new code reader. It had an 18 constant memory code in it, I've never checked or dumped codes until this day. I cleared the codes. Rechecked to be sure it cleared them and it did.
I went back and ran the car Saturday and as it was warming up it stalled. It normally has a hard time cranking back up but sometimes it cranks and sometimes it doesn't. This time I let it sit long enough to put a noid light in and see if my PIP was sending a signal and it cranked straight back up (hard to troubleshoot being so random). Shut it back off and pulled the codes again and 18 c was back.
I removed the ECU relay from above the computer thinking if it was flakey it could be dropping out computer power. I bought an autozone relay duralast #19911 which is a 5 terminal replacement. I set my ford relay on the bench and applied 12v through the coil and had my meter across terminals 3/4 and read closed circuit, I would hold that several minutes and open/close it, hoping it may open.
Tested ford and duralast relays and both worked the same. Not sure if higher current flow through terminals 3/4 contact would potentially cause a different result, but it never dropped out.
I'll probably stick the new one in anyways. The ford measured 1.5m ohms across the coil and new one 84 ohms. Not sure if the ford has tighter/more coils or if that's a sign of a problem. Couldn't tell any working difference on bench.
My distributor is a MSD pro billet #8456 that's a solid 18 years old, including the TFI module that came on the distributor.
I had autozone test my TFI several times and they said it was good (still may have a random issue causing it to blip a signal?)
Car sits more than it should and after looking at it, the distributor looks pretty rough.
Will the PIP signal loss/flake out cause a stall out condition while its running? Hate to swap the whole distributor if its not the problem.
Will the PIP signal loss/flake out cause a stall out condition while its running? Hate to swap the whole distributor if its not the problem.
My ECU ground close to the starter solenoid looks good. I ordered a new MSD coil and TFI that are here now, I really wanted to prove a bad part before throwing money/parts at it.
Computer, EEC relay and Battery is out of the car so I can make whatever non power checks I need to make.
Hard to troubleshoot a random occurrence.
No wiring ever hacked, Bennett 306, Vortech supercharged, MSD 6AL/Pro distributor/Street fighter coil, 1992 LX 5.0
Any help would be great. At this point I'll have to start throwing parts at it but still wont trust it.