? re: blown head gasket and repair options

[QDRHRSE]

I think its awesome that you took the initiative to do it so fast. Since I drove my mustang once last week, I could only imagine how long I would wait to do the same job...I might not get to it for months. You did good!

 

[jaymac]

thanks! I like to think I can step up to the plate when it comes to crunch time

Any opinions on needing to change the oil again? Every time I look, there's less and less condensation on the stick. Virtually none, by now... truthfully I think I'll be OK, but I'm open to opinions!

 

[srothfuss]

Best thing to do on the oil is just keep an eye on it. If it starts to froth up or turn any colors that it shouldn't then you will want to change the oil.

Might be good to just go drive the car for those 50 miles and check the dip stick and around the oil fill neck for any signs. If non appear, just keep an eye on it for the next couple of months.

 

[vristang]

thanks! I like to think I can step up to the plate when it comes to crunch time

Any opinions on needing to change the oil again? Every time I look, there's less and less condensation on the stick. Virtually none, by now... truthfully I think I'll be OK, but I'm open to opinions!

You wrapped that up pretty quick
Original post was just 4 days ago.

I am sure you will be just fine now. You paid attention to all the right details when torquing the heads. Better than I ever did.

Yeah, any residual moisture will burn off through the pcv eventually.

If you will feel better the next time you mash the throttle by changing that $25 in oil and filter (assuming non-synth.) then go for it. It sounds like you did it right though.

Is it just me or does the car seem even more enjoyable after putting in all that work, and knowing you did it right?

 

[stang8urimport]

One quick tip. The top head bolts don't need thread sealer. They are blind tapped. The lower head bolts go directly in a water jacket, and THEY need the thread sealer. Maybe you should pull the head bolts out one at a time and thread seal them? Good luck bro.

 

[jaymac]

One quick tip. The top head bolts don't need thread sealer. They are blind tapped. The lower head bolts go directly in a water jacket, and THEY need the thread sealer. Maybe you should pull the head bolts out one at a time and thread seal them? Good luck bro.

OOPS! My bad, that was a typo!
Thanks for your attention to detail
I used moly lube on the top and sealer on the bottom
The oil has been fine every time I've checked it, and yesterday I pulled the upper and valve covers and re-torqued the heads, rockers, and lower intake.
Top bolts were good, a few of the bottom needed to tighten up a bit, and the lower intake needed some re-torquing while hot. Rockers were good to go.
All the oil in/around the rockers was clean, inside the valve covers was clean, and on the dipstick is clean; I think we're good!

However, I still want to find out why it blew anyway. Next will be an adj. fp regulator and a dyno tune to try and get to the bottom of this ...

 

[jaymac]

bump for any more possible guesses as to why it blew...

 

[vristang]

bump for any more possible guesses as to why it blew...

Did you ever check that the block and the heads were not warped?

I think you did, but I am easily confused.

 

[jaymac]

I did not use a straight edge, so it may very well be a little off.
If they blow again, i guess I'll have a good clue why!!

 

[txstang84]

how many miles did you have? like was mentioned before, sometimes they just blow...no rhyme or reason...but you did well on your expedient recovery, and just keep an eye on everything, and you should be fine...like vristang mentioned, the remainder of the water vapor should go away through your pcv.

good job bro

 

[jaymac]

I had about 1 month on it, usually an average of about 40 mles a day, so about 1200, give or take a few....
The water condensation is all evaporated, so it looks good...

Thanks for all the help, I'll be keeping an eye on it....