re-engineering the brake pedal

hllon4whls

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Ok, so I took the whole brackety thing out that holds the brake pedal (and the clutch if you got that).

I removed some extra crap that was just in the way. Little brackets here and there that I have no idea what they go to. I also painted the nasty rusted thing.

To the point. I plan to move the pin upwards on the pedal to give more leverage on the pedal. I have a large pin already cut out of a bolt. I plan to drill a tight fitting hole for this pin and have a friend weld it in.

Has anyone done this?

I plan to move it up almost 1.5 inches center to center. Are there going to be strucural weaknesses with a big hole in the middle of the pedal shaft? I hope the the weld on the pin will restore the structural integrity of the pedal. I am considering adding some reinforcement to the side of the pedal just to be safe.

Forgot to mention that this is manual brakes with stock V8 calipers and drums.

 

P

PRO50SC

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#2

• Feb 8, 2004

• #2

Is there some purpose for doing this? Are you trying to correct another problem?

 

B

blk92stangg

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#3

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With more leverage you will be able to exert more force, but you will have more pedal travel to get it. Sounds like your drums and brakes are glazed?

 

HISSIN50

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#4

• Feb 9, 2004

• #4

blk92stangg said:

With more leverage you will be able to exert more force, but you will have more pedal travel to get it. Sounds like your drums and brakes are glazed?

Click to expand...

to me, "manual brakes" means no brake booster anymore. i see the reasoning of this mod.
if im wrong, i will sit in the corner.

 

Rick 91GT

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Nov 29, 1999

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#5

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I have the Skinny Kid racing manual brake kit and it uses a huge 2 port Strange master cylinder and come with a new adjustable rod. You drill a hole 1" up from the current mouting point on the pedal and attach it using a grade 8 bolt. I cut the pin off, welded it all shut and ground it down. Really sweet kit that comes with a brake pressure switch for the lights...

I suggest upgrading to a larger 2 port master, the stock one was ok last year using a ASP manual plate but at 130mph I had some issues getting stopped quick enough for my taste...

SKRC-MCYL7993 $169

 

hllon4whls

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To bring everyone utd; I did not realize this was not clear. I have a drag only car that draws no vacuum. I have a manual brake conversion conversion already done. The stock stuff is relatively fresh rotors and drums. I have a high pedal effort. I want to be able to reduce the effort. Pedal travel will increase, but that is not an issue for me.

Rick, thanks for the part number. I have a chrysler MC similar to the one that you have shown and I have an ASP adaptor plate. I dont know of the bore size, but I think that it is small to give more mechanical advantage.

I will check with skinny kid to see if I can get a rod kit and maybe save a few bucks. Does the aluminum plate move the M/C up any?

Did you ever use that kit with the stock brakes? I read about some of your troubles on hardcore 5.0.

Thanks for the info.

 

hllon4whls

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#7

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One more thing, Rick. Did you have to use a proportioning valve to reduce front brake line pressure? I have no p-valve anywhere on my car.

 

Rick 91GT

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#8

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No I only used the stock master and ASP bracket with the stock brakes...my buddy runs that set-up with 73mm SVO calipers and never had any issues at 120mph, now he runs Aerospace up front and the car still stops decent, stock drum brakes out back.

The Skinny kid kit will be used with my Wilwoods disc's, drag front, medium duty rears... The SK plate is about 1/2" thick, very similar to all the others available, the fittings come out towards the shock tower and are very tight...

I bought a Prop Valve to make sure I can take adjust the REAR brakes if they grab to hard, no worried about the fronts. I was told it is not needed but if the rear brakes grab to hard at 150mph+ it could be ugly, I also have my chute to help me slow down. If you buy a valve get the Summit valve, about $50 cheaper then a Wilwood and they are identical..lol

 

hllon4whls

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Do you think that the chrysler MC will have enough volume if I update to a strange rear disc? I dont remember the bore size, but think that it is small.

Wish I would have found that post on the other site when I was fighting with my inital setup. I could have saved myself some $$ and some frustration.

Should have know that there was a reason baer had a $200 kit with a rebuilt brake pedal.

 

Rick 91GT

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#10

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Can you measure the bore size? I think mine is 1.125" or 1.1875"...

I have heard of guys using the Chrysler master before so it should work...

 

Matt90GT

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#11

• Feb 9, 2004

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A PV is ONLY for the rear brakes by definition. If you have to use one up front, something is ****ed!

Get the mathis Mustang 2 book. The modifications are explained in there.

 

hllon4whls

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#12

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Matt90GT said:

A PV is ONLY for the rear brakes by definition. If you have to use one up front, something is ****ed!

Get the mathis Mustang 2 book. The modifications are explained in there.

Click to expand...

I understand how a stock braking system works. I think that it would be significanty easier to lock up brakes attached to 4 inch tires as opposed to lets say the same brakes attached to 12 inch tires. I know that most drag cars put more braking to the rear. Some dont have front brakes at all.