do you have anyother pictures? the porclen in the center what does it look like is it shiny is thier any spots on it? its hard to tell by a picture. what is your timming set at? who long have them plugs been in?
are them the plugs you are using in your roush 200 heads? i am not real familiare with them heads but most aftermarket heads take a longer reach plug that has a ring to seal them up.
from what i see that def looks like a lean condition....what fp r u running...and when u do mods u should really invest the 60 bucks to put a fuel pressure guage on the rail and keep it there...just so u always know whats goin on...u know what i mean
30,000 miles on the plugs, used only for 30 mile daily commute plus the occasional spanking of a local accord.
I have better pictures but the file size is too big to post, and once you mess with it to make it fit, it starts to look like what I posted. The only color noticible on the cone is a yellowish tan near the end. No noticible spots.
The timing is set at 14. Yes, these are being used in the Roush 200 heads.
Still have the stock fp regulator and no fp gauge. Those are on my Christmas list.
Other notes...Crane Hi-6 installed, don't know if that affects the way the spark plug looks. Also chasing codes 33 (looks like the EVP sensor is out of spec) and 91 (EGO sensor - signal voltage always indicates lean either during engine run self-test or normal engine operating conditions). Hence, the reason for checking the plugs. Trying to determine if it is really running lean, or does the computer just think so.
i called world products and checked on the plug the recamend a ngk 2817 wich is a short reach taper plug like you have. i ask because a guy i know never could get the performance he was supose to out of his engine found out he was using a factory short reach plug in a canfield head that needed a longer reach to be out in the combustion chamber. they looked like yours did.
on timming you realy want to go with total timming and not initial. you 14 degrees is as far as i would go. but what is your total timming. i would keep it in the 32 dergee area. its hard to tell looking at the photo but looks like thier is a timming issue to me. a bit to much. i also noticed thier is alot of were on the plug and to be expected for 30,000 mi. you may what to change them a bit more often. also with the timming bumped up you should run the higest rated octain avalible.
That plug does look like a lean condition, it would have spots all over or it, or a melted electrod, if it were detonating, look at a chiltons book. As for the 91 code, there was a guy on corral net that had that problem yesterday, he found that the orange ground wire coming out the that harness behind the upper intake was not grounded to the firewall. I also had that code before, and it was due to a burned fusable link in the harness on the passagenger side firewall. Just two things for you to look for. The other code, I cant help you with. Good luck.
LOL, I also saw the post abut the disconnected wire, and started a thread on here to notify others. Checked mine and sure enough, it was not connected. So after reconnecting it, I cleared the computer memory, reset the base idle, cleared the memory again, and ran it for a couple of days to let it find itself. That's where I am now with the two codes remaining. The plug did look more worn than I would have expected, considering that I have seen factory plugs in high mileage engines. So they will be replaced. I will check out the fuseable link.
82boy - thanks for calling World, I was planning to myself but haven't had time. When I change the plugs I will try setting the timing back a tad. I always run 93 octane and have not had any detonation issues that I am aware of.