Reading Codes Question.

I have a '89 5.0, and I purchased a ODB digital code reader. Well I used it today and when it first tests it checks for the amount of Cylinders. And when it tested it had 6 CYL and I tried it 3 more times and every time 6 CYL. Tried it a few days later 6 CYL. Any ideas? The reason I checked codes was for the IAC is acting funny again. I got code 11 that the book said System Ok. on KOER. Whats going on?!?!
 
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It's common. Just ignore it.


You are shooting for three 11 codes

Koeo - 11
Cm - 11
Koer - 11

At the end, run the cylinder balance test for good measure.


As for the iab acting funny.......tell it to straighten up and be serious.




(ok seriously can't help you on that because no idea what your issue is)
 
Thanks for the Code info. Well I told the IAC to knock it off didnt work. Well what it is doing is keeping the engine idle high and or sticking at like 2500 till I turn the engine off and start it again while driving. And seems to want to rev a little higher when I push the clutch in like its getting more air when I let my foot off the throttle. This one is a replacement one I got about 6-7 months ago no problems really till now. It was not the ford one but other one from LRS. I have checked the base idle before its at around 800 I keep it there becuase I have under drive pulleys and they slowed the AC down to much so I bumped it up for now to beat the heat. Do I just need a new IAC AGAIN!?!?
 
Well, when you bumped the idle speed up did you reset the computer? Anytime you change the idle speed via the idle stop screw you should reset the comp. Keep in mind this will reset the codes, so make sure you pulled the codes first.

There are other mechanical issues that can cause your symptoms. The ECT (code 21) and the TPS (code 23). When you bumped the idle up, it's possible you moved the TPS out of range. You'd see a code for this in the KOEO codes. If it's there, you need to readjust the TPS below 1.1V at idle. The range you are shooting for is between 0.6v and 1.1v...no specific number, just anywhere in there.

Try this. First, clean the hell out of the IAC with carb cleaner and make sure everything moves nice. Bolt it on, but leave it unplugged (to prevent the computer from trying to control idle). Next, remove the spot connector to lock timing in place. Start the car. If it wont start, open the throttle screw up until it starts. Once started, adjust your idle to where you want it to be. Usually you want it at the lowest sustainable idle, but if you want to bump it for your a/c, set it up higher. Once set, turn off car, unplug battery for 30 mins and plug the IAC back in along with the spout. Hook batt up, turn key to ON and verify the TPS sensor is in range (0.6-1.1v) Start the car, let it idle 2 mins without a/c on, then 2 mins with a/c and other accessories on. This is the proper idle reset procedure.

Anytime you touch the idle stop screw, you much do the above procedure. Failure can give you an erratic idle like you have. Also, run the codes after a few starts and verify you dont have a TPS out of range code.

And FORD IAC and TPS sensors (or any sensors for the matter) are better than parts store sensors


good luck