Ready for some go-fast!

AmBo · Mar 7, 2006

Okay, this spring/summer is time for the bolt-ons to start coming. My question now is...where to start? All I have is a K&N drop in with flows. I'm looking to stay on the path of "pre-vortech". This is VERY important to me. I don't want to go buying things that will eventually get replaced by the blower. And I'd like to keep my budget <$1,200.

Right now I know I'm getting FRPP 3.73s in April and that's gunna run me $400 (parts & labor).

What else should I be focusing on? Accufab Plenum/TB? I think once the vortech goes in I can't use the TB, right?

All other mods are in my sig if you're curious.

Thanks for your help guys.
:SNSign:

sgarlic · Mar 7, 2006

You're on the right track. Things to support having that much power down the road are good to be thinking about now. Subframes, welding torque boxes come to mind offhand. Stronger axles may not be a bad idea while they're out doing the gear swap.

I personally would probably do a bullitt or some other stronger intake swap if I planned on anything besides a KB. Judging by peoples sigs around here, you can definately use an aftermarket TB with a vortech.. that is to say, Vortech doesn't supply you with a new TB.

Also, upgrading your fuel pump is something you'll want to think about.

AmBo · Mar 7, 2006

Agreed. The fuel pump ugrade will go in with the blower.

The bullitt intake is around $1,000 so I wouldn't count too much on that being in my budget.

Also, by stronger axles,do you mean the "posi" or whatever it is guys around here talk about? The guy said he'd install a "posi" for $25 while he is in there. What do they do and how much are they?

CrazyHorn · Mar 7, 2006

I've heard to go fast you need to bolt an ls1.

Kilgore Trout · Mar 7, 2006

For $1200: 3.73 gears, SCT XCal2, MM LCAs.

DropTopPony · Mar 7, 2006

Ambo...
Can't go wrong with 3.73's
While your getting gears it would be cheaper to upgrade axles(31 spline) and rear differential(31 spline) while your in there
Some upper/lower control arms are also a good upgrade.
A new midpipe would free up some horsepower
75mmTB/Plenum definately get
That should be a good chunk of change...
Don't worry about a tune and upgrading your fuel system..thats covered with the Mongoose kit

I'm finally done putting everything on my car together so I found a great deal on a FRPP Blower and i'm just waiting for UPS to bring it. Now I have to decide who I want to build my forged shortblock and i'm set.

Mike97gt · Mar 7, 2006

CrazyHorn said:
I've heard to go fast you need to bolt an ls1.

don't get that stuff started.

AmBo · Mar 7, 2006

My car won't be seeing the strip often nor will I ever be running slicks. So is building the rear end that important? That's $400 right there and it would need to be done with the gears so that's $800 in one place! Accufab tb/p is $450 for the combo and bam, I'm at $1250! OOF!

Kilgore Trout · Mar 7, 2006

How are you going to correct speedo? Skip the worthless tb and plenum and get SCT XCal2

AmBo · Mar 7, 2006

Mechanic who is installing the gears is going to correct my speedo. how can you say tb and plenum are worthless?

01Steeda · Mar 7, 2006

I have had many Mod engine builders who have built bad ass stangs.. 400-700+ HP cars all tell me that until you get around 400 FWHP your spinnin your wheels with the TB and Plenum, they flow plenty to support the HP until that point.

I will be getting a combo soon, but I am waiting until I see more about these lower intakes that are surfacing.

reddrgn01gt · Mar 7, 2006

Umm maybe i missed it but how about Lts and a mid-pipe? You will make more power with the throttle body and plenum than without it at a given boost level also. Imo opening up the exhaust and suspension would be first on my list.

Shiroelex · Mar 7, 2006

I don't know if you are, but I am still paying for my 'Stang. If I ever decide to get a blower, the first mods that are in line before the thing goes on, are going to be beefing up the rotating mass. I'd do a cobra crank and some nice I-beams, just for 'insurance purposes', and prepare for a nice rich fuel table. Then, a real good dyno tune afterwards. I want to make sure my investment will serve me for a long time. That's just my opinion, tho!

01Steeda · Mar 7, 2006

yeah I did forget you are going blower.. the TB and Plenum can definatly help in that case.. my bad.

DropTopPony · Mar 7, 2006

Shiroelex said:
I don't know if you are, but I am still paying for my 'Stang. If I ever decide to get a blower, the first mods that are in line before the thing goes on, are going to be beefing up the rotating mass. I'd do a cobra crank and some nice I-beams, just for 'insurance purposes', and prepare for a nice rich fuel table. Then, a real good dyno tune afterwards. I want to make sure my investment will serve me for a long time. That's just my opinion, tho!

Stock Crank is good for atleast 500 rwhp so Cobra Crank is nice buts its not needed unless your gonna go beyond that or spin the motor in high RPM's.

jasonh_86 · Mar 7, 2006

Gears, 75mm TB/Plenum, Long Tubes, Midpipe, Catback, XCal2

AmBo · Mar 8, 2006

Can the XCal fix my speedo issue? Mechanic who is doing my gears says he suggests Predator...but I have heard amazing things about SCTxcal2.

Right now I'm thinking:
3.73s ($400 installed)
Xcal2 ($400) <-- what will this due for me again? LAWL!
MM LCAs ($250)

I'll hold off on the tb/plenum until I get closer to the blower I guess if it isn't going to yield me any increases in power at this point.

Now I'm starting to think, instead of dropping $400 on a programmer and the such, should I just put the gears in and do the speedcal fix for now since the blower will come with a tune? I'm trying to be as cost effective as possible. Even though I have enough saved up right now for a mongoose KB from MPH, I still don't want to spend it all in one place.

COramprat · Mar 8, 2006

The Xcal2 is OK IF you will be doing your own tuning tweeks or datalogging. You will probably not be doing that if you are only a DD and not going to the track. Save yourself some money and just get a 4 bank chip. If you want to do the chip now you can. Just research the cost as opposed to the Speedcal and then retuning for the blower. A lot of tuners will retune for mods for the cost of dyno time if you purchased the chip from them.

For BFTB now I'd do the gears, long tubes and midpipe. That will probably put you at your limit for now. Wait on the TB and plenum replacement closer to your SC install.

reddrgn01gt · Mar 8, 2006

Personally i think the xcal2 is worth it. You save the money on the speedcal and it should come preloaded with a tune or several tunes from whoever you bought it from (based on your mods at the time if i understand this correctly). Chips are old school tech these days and the handheld's are where it is at because of their versatility. I have loaded the stock predator tune on mine and bumped the timing on it. My 4.10s will probably be going in before my cams the way its looking now so i will be able to adjust for that. When i get it dyno tuned i will already have it and it will be one less thing to buy. You can play around with a handheld and adjust parameters and read codes. they are really versatile. If i was buying a programmer today it would be the xcal2. It allows for more adjustments - especially with the autos. When it first came out it wasn't as good as the predator.

COramprat · Mar 8, 2006

I'm not arguing the Xcal2 isn't a good piece. I just think it is too much for just the average driver who isn't going to tweak different parameters. I had one...I traded it for a chip. Plus, each time you want to change the tune you have to shut down the car, disconnect the fuel pump and fan fuses and flash the computer. A chip you can switch on the fly. I like having that convienence better. It just depends on what works for you and your preference. I'm giving advise from both sides because I've tried both.

Ready for some go-fast!

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Fried or Broiled ?

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it doe snot

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Fried or Broiled ?

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There's nothing worse than aut

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I

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...I can take it. I think.

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...I can take it. I think.

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