Ready for the dyno tune

Black Stampede · May 21, 2009

Well the car is all back together now and seems to run pretty well. Idles good and drives around just fine. Obvious hot starts and slight driveability issues you get with any un-tuned car, but other than that I am please. It does however run pretty warm. I am not totally sure if this is going to be a problem yet. I let it run in the driveway with the fan on for about 20 minutes and it stayed right on 195 or so and held there. Then I drove it around my neighborhood for about 15 minutes and it stayed right on 210, again with the fan on. Now 210 is not really that bad as I was only doing 20-25 throughout my neighborhood, but that is with the fan on. I mean is it really realistic to need the fan all the time? (obviously aside from when you are driving at speeds beyond when the fan can help)

I didn't bother turning the fan off to see what would happen because I am sure it would heat right up. It just gets SO dang hot in that engine bay with all the turbo stuff. Btw, I have a Griffin radiator and a new water pump. Any input would be great.

Venom351R · May 21, 2009

You can tell the tuner to have the fan kick on sooner then it does now.

Mustangless · May 21, 2009

Your lowspeed is probably the only one running. I don't think the high comes on until 216 (I could be wrong).

The only bad thing IMO about higher temps, is pulled timing. I am not sure of the exact number, but when the ect hits a certain temp, timing is pulled. Your tuner can change this and your fan settings.

I have all stock radiator/water pump/etc, with 180*. I can keep my temps down until I go wot. Then they climb fast.

I am not sure how much my fan runs, but I think its alot.

Black95GTS · May 22, 2009

There's a couple things you can do here, but for starters the tuner will have your fans kick on earlier without a doubt. You can also run some water wetter in the coolant. You can run a 160 degree thermostat. Furthermore, and what I recommend after seeing it in my uncle's 10 second 2004GT, is a Mishimoto radiator. Drops right in like a stocker, looks good, works good. Fairly short dough but I don't know the price off the top of my head. There was a thread or two on here about them not too long ago...

Adam

Black Stampede · May 22, 2009

I have a manual fan switch that turns the fan on high speed. Thats what I am referring to when I say I had it on the whole time. Also, I have a Griffin radiator so I am quite sure my radiator is up to snuff.

95Vert383AOD · May 22, 2009

Black95GTS said:
There's a couple things you can do here, but for starters the tuner will have your fans kick on earlier without a doubt. You can also run some water wetter in the coolant. You can run a 160 degree thermostat. Furthermore, and what I recommend after seeing it in my uncle's 10 second 2004GT, is a Mishimoto radiator. Drops right in like a stocker, looks good, works good. Fairly short dough but I don't know the price off the top of my head. There was a thread or two on here about them not too long ago...

Adam

Not sure about the Mishimoto. I bought one a year ago and it lasted about 3 months before leaking. Do a search....theres people who have had Mishimotos repaired and repaired. I still have mine (out of the car) if you want to repair the leak in mine and give it a go.

A good radiator that has worked flawlessly for me is a Visteon.

My car runs 210 untuned. Idling or driving. I was told the computer has the fan come on at 208 degrees which is about right seeing how the stock thermostat is 192. If on the highway youll see slightly lower temps. (about 5-7 degrees lower)

ProKiller · May 22, 2009

water wetter might help a bit. what temp thermostat do you have in there now?

Black Stampede · May 22, 2009

It's a 195, which I'm sure some of you will say should be changed, but I don't think I agree. If the car can't keep itself to 195 while driving theres no reason its going to magically keep itself to 180. I mean regardless I guess I don't think the t-stat is the primary factor.

rio95 · May 22, 2009

Black Stampede said:
It's a 195, which I'm sure some of you will say should be changed, but I don't think I agree. If the car can't keep itself to 195 while driving theres no reason its going to magically keep itself to 180. I mean regardless I guess I don't think the t-stat is the primary factor.

You are wrong. Just because the 195 is not making the car run at 195 doesn't mean a 180 wouldn't help. Are you telling me that the stat we just put in is a 195? If so, what's were you thinking.

I'm also slightly confused. Do you not look at my temp when you drive my car ALL the time? Mine goes over 210 when driving slow or at a light all the time. It is almost never below 195 at any time. If I keep the high speed on and am on the highway at best it's still at 190-195. Thats just how it is. I don't know why you are concerned with this having plenty of experience in my car. And if I had to guess yours would run a bit hotter than mine due to your headers not being wrapped and you don't have a turbo blanket like I do. Also your car isn't tuned so that might not help either. But from what you're saying your car isn't running ANY hotter than mine does.

Black Stampede · May 22, 2009

rio95 said:
You are wrong. Just because the 195 is not making the car run at 195 doesn't mean a 180 wouldn't help. Are you telling me that the stat we just put in is a 195? If so, what's were you thinking.

I'm also slightly confused. Do you not look at my temp when you drive my car ALL the time? Mine goes over 210 when driving slow or at a light all the time. It is almost never below 195 at any time. If I keep the high speed on and am on the highway at best it's still at 190-195. Thats just how it is. I don't know why you are concerned with this having plenty of experience in my car. And if I had to guess yours would run a bit hotter than mine due to your headers not being wrapped and you don't have a turbo blanket like I do. Also your car isn't tuned so that might not help either. But from what you're saying your car isn't running ANY hotter than mine does.

I was mainly emphasizing I don't think it's the primary issue. And yes, I do look at yours all the time obviously cause I turn the fan on and off as needed. But what I am saying is that it doesn't ALWAYS need it. Like last Sunay for example I never turned it on the whole time I was driving it for what 45 minutes and it didn't break 210. So I am saying that mine needed the fan the whole time to not break 210. I am fairly sure turning it off would make it creep up to 230 or so. I guess I haven't driven it enough to know.

I'm sure a 180 stat, wrap, and a blanket would help, but to what extent idk. Keep in mine before we swapped out that 180 the other day it was running just as hot.

blksn955.o · May 23, 2009

Running a cooler than stock t-stat actually caused me to over heat. Part of the reason I believe is the fans became out of sync with the stat. I did the manual fan switch myself until I got the tweecer. As soon as I updated the tune to better fit the 190 stat I have I have yet to go over 192-195 via logs or the autometer gauge. This is while driving in 100+ temps with VERY humid conditions and running it up to the shift points on a stock radiator.

Like others have posted with a tune, stat, and better radiator that should remove any need to use the manual fan even with your turbo setup. It would also be a good idea to make sure your coolant temp sender (should be in the cross over tube that goes to the heater) is working correctly as it gives the EEC the signal of what temp things are to turn things on/off.

nmcgrawj · May 26, 2009

Are you going to Lidio's for the tune?

Black Stampede · May 26, 2009

nmcgrawj said:
Are you going to Lidio's for the tune?

Yeah.

Black Stampede · May 31, 2009

Getting closer to being ready after taking care of some odds and ends this weekend. Adjusted the cold side and wires in the passenger side fender to give more clearance to the tire while turning. Messed with the driver side wiring as well to clear. Put the front styrofoam piece and bumper back on. And spent about 3 hours cleaning the engine bay. Got it as good as I can without taking stuff apart, which I am not ambitious enough to do. Still looks pretty sweet.

Only things left to do are to pull the tailpipes off and get the bullett put on and get a 180 stat and hope it cools it off a few degrees.

Lidio is only going to tune the car to 8-10 psi since I have a stock computer. I am fine with that though because making insane power at this point isn't my goal as I need to save my tranny and clutch.

nmcgrawj · Jun 1, 2009

What power level did he tell u the stock computer is good to? And a replacement is something like an AEM setup?

Black Stampede · Jun 1, 2009

nmcgrawj said:
What power level did he tell u the stock computer is good to? And a replacement is something like an AEM setup?

He didn't refer to a power level, but said a conservative tune for 8-10 psi. A FAST system.

Ready for the dyno tune

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